SAVAGE - SS, .25, .21 Official Thread!
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
the one with six even sized holes is quite punchy with 3 hard springs with a .21 in buggy excited to get it on the track
Keep us posted. 👍
Anyone have expertise with the os 30vg engine ? Just picked up an xl and has this motor brand new never mounted
The recommendations are to use fuel with higher oil percentage and keep temps <240F.
I run the OS carb on my STS.30 👍
Last edited by Horatio; 05-24-2020 at 05:40 AM.
Tech Champion
Depends what you could sell it for.. If not enough to get near an LRP 32 or whatever, I'd just run it.. But yeah, I seem to recall always hearing mixed things about them... Horatio's advice sounds good. I remember seeing some decent clips of them like well over 10 years ago, but iirc I read a lot back then about how they didn't last very long..
Here's a picture of the fuel bottle issues I've been having.
The same break pattern on both lids.
The retailer has had numerous customers with the same issue, so this picture has now been sent to the supplier. Apparently, the supplier is going to sort things for me.
I was rather hoping I'd get a credit note with the retailer, but I think the supplier is going to send me yet another Racer's Edge Fuel bottle... It will be the revised type with the thread on the inside of the neck - like the Mugen and Hudy bottles.
The same break pattern on both lids.
The retailer has had numerous customers with the same issue, so this picture has now been sent to the supplier. Apparently, the supplier is going to sort things for me.
I was rather hoping I'd get a credit note with the retailer, but I think the supplier is going to send me yet another Racer's Edge Fuel bottle... It will be the revised type with the thread on the inside of the neck - like the Mugen and Hudy bottles.
Thankfully, the retailer, MB Models, did a really good of making things good, by discounting a Savox servo for the Baja 5B. So shout out for them.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (16)
well wear has significantly been increased from the holes ive drilled, the clutches run great but at about 1/2 gallon through two clutches they are about 1/3rd worn. I expected them to wear faster due to slippage, one set wore a little funny but i ended up killing the outer clutch bearing somehow on that one Im assuming that was the culprit. i was even running a ONroad GT .21 in my truggy and never noticed a lack of bottom end or punch. i think most of the this clutch kills bottom end comes from when the cars, wheels and tires we ran were all significantly heavier. Also two of the main guys saying that are friends from the same city and tend to think anything that isnt tuned for all out power sucks, Nick and neal are freaking awesome guys just have strong opinions on things.
Tech Champion
I had the same experience though, and I was certainly never out to agree - or disagree - with anybody. That was just my experience. I was all about performance, obviously..., but also having as little maintenance as possible - and for that the Fioroni was great. I loved the Fioroni clutch on my 28s and Mach 427s in my Muggy, various truggies, a buggy, etc.. But when I put it on a Picco 21 in truggy it just seemed to kill it. I mean that was years ago and I didn't experiment around much, but that was definitely my impression back then. Then I just started buying Mugen alu clutches from chop shops, which I got cheaply enough, and afaic that was a good route. Good bite from the clutches, and cheap enough to throw away after they got too worn down...
Later I started getting Reckward Speed 2.5 carbon clutches, and they were the ideal solution in truggy and buggy. Had the bite of a good normal clutch, but lasted a long time so the maintenance was low..
I've got like 10 brand new clutches in my clutch box...
Later I started getting Reckward Speed 2.5 carbon clutches, and they were the ideal solution in truggy and buggy. Had the bite of a good normal clutch, but lasted a long time so the maintenance was low..
I've got like 10 brand new clutches in my clutch box...
To be fair, I've never run the Turbo Slider on a .21, so I'm really not qualified to comment. I know that the sliders have 2-4 times more surface area (compared to regular 3 & 4 shoe alloy clutch shoes). I suppose by drilling them, you're making them lighter, which makes the shoes more inclined to engage later (higher up the engine's power/torque curve) AND you're reducing the surface area of the clutch, which makes it more inclined to slip (rather than bog). Slipping will increase heat/wear and wear out bearings faster.
My only concern with drilling out shoes is the precision required to ensure that they remain perfectly balanced. Vibration will kill bearings quickly too - not just the clutchbell bearings, but the front and main bearings on your engine too. 😱
My only concern with drilling out shoes is the precision required to ensure that they remain perfectly balanced. Vibration will kill bearings quickly too - not just the clutchbell bearings, but the front and main bearings on your engine too. 😱
Tech Champion
It's true that I never did mess with springs.. I just put it on and ran it..
I had gallons and gallons on them though in my Muggy and Hyper ST Pro.. God that was forever ago ha ha...
Pretty sure this had the Fioroni in it.. (The Muggy was notoriously hard on clutch bell bearings and clutches.. With the Fioroni it was set and forget...)
I had gallons and gallons on them though in my Muggy and Hyper ST Pro.. God that was forever ago ha ha...
Pretty sure this had the Fioroni in it.. (The Muggy was notoriously hard on clutch bell bearings and clutches.. With the Fioroni it was set and forget...)
That thing is screaming with you - good tune and 'on the pipe' - right on the money. 👍
Certainly doesn't look like it's lacking clutch at all. Is that footage with the Fioroni?
Certainly doesn't look like it's lacking clutch at all. Is that footage with the Fioroni?
Tech Champion
I think so. Didn’t say in the description.. Back then there was a lot of talk about chassis flex killing clutches with the Muggy. Which is why I got the Fioroni in the first place..
Quick question how do I remote the break adapter from the tranny I removed the set screw but it won’t budge is there something I’m missing also does the tranny get any lube or diff oil in it ?
The brake adaptor/hex has an insert and a pin that goes through both. Once the pin is removed, just 'pursuade' it off - lever it off, carefully.
The gears inside the transmission require black grease or graphite grease, lightly applied. As there is no centre diff, you don't have to worry about silicone grease or what weight to choose.
Ensure the bearings are healthy - they should be greased or oiled too.
The brake adaptor/hex has an insert and a pin that goes through both. Once the pin is removed, just 'pursuade' it off - lever it off, carefully.
The gears inside the transmission require black grease or graphite grease, lightly applied. As there is no centre diff, you don't have to worry about silicone grease or what weight to choose.
Ensure the bearings are healthy - they should be greased or oiled too.
got the hex off but the new one has different size screw hole so back to original
progress so far