204LikesSAVAGE - SS, .25, .21 Official Thread!
09-22-2005, 03:40 PM
#4186
well my savage isnt "set-up" for the road, but i still drive there and the dirtbonz work very well (although i can still spin them pretty good if my engine is tuned right and i drive the truck right). they dont baloon much but the sidewalls still give the savage that soft feeling. not anywhere near like the savage's gt tires do.
09-23-2005, 12:44 AM
#4187
jaimzer...congrats...why in the world u gave yer trophy to someone to hold it 
nice ride there...and u too...Horatio. damn nice stock savage(excl ported engine).
i had the same problem too with the leaking shaft...i think i've replaced 2 one-ways already till i realized its the leaking backplate.
nice ride there...and u too...Horatio. damn nice stock savage(excl ported engine).
i had the same problem too with the leaking shaft...i think i've replaced 2 one-ways already till i realized its the leaking backplate.
09-23-2005, 12:52 AM
#4188
Originally Posted by xxxkat
I have no reason to do that,I own an LSP.I just wanted a better MT to race in the MT class,I do think that truggys need to race in their own class,Sucks to get lapped..2 or more times..At least that what my friends tell me.. 
I have no knowledge of what its like to get lapped..
I have no knowledge of what its like to get lapped.. i want the rock concept chassis...NOW!!!!
hey, send my regards & congrats to John of rock concept ok. he keep us savagers alive with his techie savage mod.
09-23-2005, 02:37 AM
#4190
Well, got some new wheels today, wasn't much available locally, these are Ride 7" monster wheels, nice and big! My buddy got them for his TNX as well, things are starting to look goood.
As for the brake problems I am having, the shopkeeper recommended putting fresh receiver batteries, it might also help. I'll be tinkering a bit more later!
As for the brake problems I am having, the shopkeeper recommended putting fresh receiver batteries, it might also help. I'll be tinkering a bit more later!
09-23-2005, 03:07 AM
#4191
JFC:
Hey - nice to have you around again! The 3 speed performs very well You'll not regret getting it, but you'll have to build it carefully. If you get the prebuilt option, you'll have to rebuild it anyway - to adjust the 1st gear shift point and to ensure that the 31 tooth gear is de-burred.
The oily 1 way problem has only recently started happening with mine, and when I checked the oring that the shaft slides through, it appeared worn.
I had a look around in my spares boxes for a suitable O ring - but as it happens, HPI supply spare 2 Orings in the spare parts bag that they include with the Savage. They fit fine!!
Hey - nice to have you around again! The 3 speed performs very well
You'll not regret getting it, but you'll have to build it carefully. If you get the prebuilt option, you'll have to rebuild it anyway - to adjust the 1st gear shift point and to ensure that the 31 tooth gear is de-burred.The oily 1 way problem has only recently started happening with mine, and when I checked the oring that the shaft slides through, it appeared worn.
I had a look around in my spares boxes for a suitable O ring - but as it happens, HPI supply spare 2 Orings in the spare parts bag that they include with the Savage. They fit fine!!
09-23-2005, 03:18 AM
#4192
Originally Posted by eTiMaGo
Well, got some new wheels today, wasn't much available locally, these are Ride 7" monster wheels, nice and big! My buddy got them for his TNX as well, things are starting to look goood.
As for the brake problems I am having, the shopkeeper recommended putting fresh receiver batteries, it might also help. I'll be tinkering a bit more later!
As for the brake problems I am having, the shopkeeper recommended putting fresh receiver batteries, it might also help. I'll be tinkering a bit more later!
Be careful with your gearing, or else you'll over heat your clutch/melt your spur.
You should never be running anything other than fresh cells in your Savage, it goes without saying. TBH, dry cells should have no place in the operation of Nitro powered models - it's an accident waiting to happen. When you can, get rid of the 4 cell battery holder and replace it with a 5 cell 1200mah rechargable Rx pack. Get yourself a suitable switch harness (I use a futaba switch harness) so that you can charge the pack up without having to remove it.
Good luck - keep us posted!.
09-23-2005, 04:32 AM
#4194
Originally Posted by Horatio
Nice!
Be careful with your gearing, or else you'll over heat your clutch/melt your spur.
You should never be running anything other than fresh cells in your Savage, it goes without saying. TBH, dry cells should have no place in the operation of Nitro powered models - it's an accident waiting to happen. When you can, get rid of the 4 cell battery holder and replace it with a 5 cell 1200mah rechargable Rx pack. Get yourself a suitable switch harness (I use a futaba switch harness) so that you can charge the pack up without having to remove it.
Good luck - keep us posted!.
Be careful with your gearing, or else you'll over heat your clutch/melt your spur.
You should never be running anything other than fresh cells in your Savage, it goes without saying. TBH, dry cells should have no place in the operation of Nitro powered models - it's an accident waiting to happen. When you can, get rid of the 4 cell battery holder and replace it with a 5 cell 1200mah rechargable Rx pack. Get yourself a suitable switch harness (I use a futaba switch harness) so that you can charge the pack up without having to remove it.
Good luck - keep us posted!.
Fresh batteries improve brakes a little, not much... Time to wait for the new disc, and if still not good, new servo...
Caption for the picture: "Who's your daddy?"
09-23-2005, 05:29 AM
#4195
seeing as the 3.5 has the stock brake disc they are gonna be really bad now with the bigger tires. i have the carbon brake disc with the stock hub and it works very well. ive had it for atleast year now and they still work as good as new with a standard servo, might be because of the lighter tires or something and i dont tend to use my brakes as much as i should. but the 3.5 already has the cast hub which is a good start
09-23-2005, 05:34 AM
#4196
and seeing as your truck has 14/52 gearing i dont think you can go much shorter, if you are dumping out alot of smoke on the low-end causing its sluggishness then you need to lean it out, if no smoke and it still has that kind of bog to it then richen it. maybe get a hpi tuned pipe if the engine is set at its best, that will help quite a bit.
09-23-2005, 06:29 AM
#4197
eTiMaGo, Are those Hot Bodies 7" wheels your using???
If they are the 14mm hexes be careful with them. I have a set and
I stripped the hex out very quickly. The tires are very large and heavy
so they don't spin as easily as the smaller tires. The plastic is very cheap
and doesn't hold up well.
The Maximizer beadlocks work very wheel against hold up against stripping.
The are a composite plastic which makes them very strong. The only problem with them was the tires like to fly off even with the rage rings
installed (designed to hold thinner walled tires like the Bow-ties or Dirt bones).
This was corrected by CA glue.
I have since switched over to the Pro-line 23mm Hexes without any issues.
I have a big race this weekend which should include a lot of tough competition such as Revos and Truggies. My Savage is itching to crush the
little guys.
I may break out the SUT if the Savage is not up for the task but I'm sure that won't be neccessary.
As for race Set-ups, if your racing off-road as Horatio and I do be sure to run soft springs in the front with light oil to allow the truck to transfer weight to the front to result in better corning traction.
I will report on Monday with the Race Results.
If they are the 14mm hexes be careful with them. I have a set and
I stripped the hex out very quickly. The tires are very large and heavy
so they don't spin as easily as the smaller tires. The plastic is very cheap
and doesn't hold up well.
The Maximizer beadlocks work very wheel against hold up against stripping.
The are a composite plastic which makes them very strong. The only problem with them was the tires like to fly off even with the rage rings
installed (designed to hold thinner walled tires like the Bow-ties or Dirt bones).
This was corrected by CA glue.
I have since switched over to the Pro-line 23mm Hexes without any issues.
I have a big race this weekend which should include a lot of tough competition such as Revos and Truggies. My Savage is itching to crush the
little guys.
I may break out the SUT if the Savage is not up for the task but I'm sure that won't be neccessary.
As for race Set-ups, if your racing off-road as Horatio and I do be sure to run soft springs in the front with light oil to allow the truck to transfer weight to the front to result in better corning traction.
I will report on Monday with the Race Results.
09-23-2005, 08:13 AM
#4198
14/52 is pretty low, but 12/52 is the lowest. 19/47 is as high as you can go (recommended only with powerful engines).
Going smaller on the CB or larger with the spur will give a lower gear ratio. Going larger on the CB or smaller on the spur will give a higher ratio.
Unfortunately in recent years, in the sport of RC, certain experts have started to use the term 'high' and 'low' gearing incorrectly. This is causing all sorts of problems and they think they're being really clever because of it.
On a 2 speed Savage, geared 14/52, in second gear it has an overall gearing of 18.885:1. Compare that to 17/49 - 14.655:1.
18.885:1 is actually a 'lower' gear ratio than 14.655:1, even though the number 18.885 is higher than 14.655. Some people have decided to use the term 'higher' for the low ratios and 'lower' for the high ratios because of the numerical value aspect. Confused.com!!!
Just remember this - in a real car, you start off in first gear (the lowest gear) and work your way to 5th (the highest gear). Full-size Off road cars often have a 'reduction' box as well, this gives an additional set of lower gears (thus the term reduction ratio).
Going smaller on the CB or larger with the spur will give a lower gear ratio. Going larger on the CB or smaller on the spur will give a higher ratio.
Unfortunately in recent years, in the sport of RC, certain experts have started to use the term 'high' and 'low' gearing incorrectly. This is causing all sorts of problems and they think they're being really clever because of it.
On a 2 speed Savage, geared 14/52, in second gear it has an overall gearing of 18.885:1. Compare that to 17/49 - 14.655:1.
18.885:1 is actually a 'lower' gear ratio than 14.655:1, even though the number 18.885 is higher than 14.655. Some people have decided to use the term 'higher' for the low ratios and 'lower' for the high ratios because of the numerical value aspect. Confused.com!!!
Just remember this - in a real car, you start off in first gear (the lowest gear) and work your way to 5th (the highest gear). Full-size Off road cars often have a 'reduction' box as well, this gives an additional set of lower gears (thus the term reduction ratio).
09-23-2005, 12:57 PM
#4199
ok, so the savage has many good and bad points, but the biggest of the bad could possibly be the brakes. straight out of the box, if you have a slight off track moment, the standard issue stoppers just aren't up to the challenge. what you want are the twin vented disc and pad set. even on stock servo's, the truck will endo with no hassle on grass or tarmac!
secondly, try some cvd drive shafts. this not only frees up some much needed off the line acceleration, but also means speed can be shed quicker.
if you're running standard 4-cell receiver pack batteries, get a 5-cell, 1200 pack instead. the servo's will respond much quicker, and for longer.
all in all, welcome to the nitro scene, you will never be alone!! get used to people coming up and asking what you're running, even on a quiet sunday afternoon at the park!!
p.s check out the pics. my truck's taking on a slightly hot bodies gt feel with that wing!! oh, and the mini mauler is my girlfriends! she's into the r/c scene now, with an uprated 180(wow) motor, and 1200 hump pack.
secondly, try some cvd drive shafts. this not only frees up some much needed off the line acceleration, but also means speed can be shed quicker.
if you're running standard 4-cell receiver pack batteries, get a 5-cell, 1200 pack instead. the servo's will respond much quicker, and for longer.
all in all, welcome to the nitro scene, you will never be alone!! get used to people coming up and asking what you're running, even on a quiet sunday afternoon at the park!!
p.s check out the pics. my truck's taking on a slightly hot bodies gt feel with that wing!! oh, and the mini mauler is my girlfriends! she's into the r/c scene now, with an uprated 180(wow) motor, and 1200 hump pack.
