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SAVAGE - SS, .25, .21 Official Thread!

SAVAGE - SS, .25, .21 Official Thread!

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Old 08-26-2004, 04:12 AM
  #16  
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Nitrohead & Myclod:

I'll have to carefully consider my options - there are pro's and con's with either course of action. I think the OS carb has a larger intake and of course it is superbly made - real quality. I'm scared of damaging it, but likewise - I'm scared that if I bore out the engine's casing instead, my tried and tested NS S-25 carb will no longer fit.

Hmmm........
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Old 08-26-2004, 04:27 AM
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Originally posted by jfc_tech

ya ya ya...now i realized after racing my Savage...there's nothing like the touring. it does help in the reflexes thing...especially in the 'S' chicane. but for the truck...if u over steer it...just go over the ramp.
my project now is getting it lowered. i want to corner as hard as possible without losing speed. now we're racing on the grass...whats yer setup for it Horatio?

suspension: front? rear?
shock weight?
camber?
engine:?
plug?
fuel nitro?
etc etc etc
thanks in advance
I'm still learning with my truck, but the setup I use is this:

Suspension

Springs front and rear = Purple
Shock Oil front and rear = 2x20weight & 2 x 25weight
Spacers = removed when grip is high (so arms are parrellel to the ground)

Diffs

Front = 10000 weight silicon
Rear = 3000 weight silicon

Geometry

Camber = 2degrees front, 0 degrees rear
Toe = 2 degrees toe out front, 2 degrees toe in rear

Engine

NS S-25 (ported)
Pipe = HPI Ribbed tuned pipe

Plug

RB Concept Plug (No 6)

Fuel

Tornado 25% Race or Elite Pink Power 25% for 'bashing' with

Tyres

40 series bowties

Wheels

Either Proline 40 velocity 6 series for quick tracks, or Ramtech Viper 40's for bumpy tracks.

Hope this helps!
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:11 AM
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thanks...i will try on our next race.
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Old 08-26-2004, 05:33 AM
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Hey Horatio,
Sounds like you've had some technical problems with people hitting you on the track.

I got my Savage set up a little better for racing now.
-Airtronics M8
-Intedy Piggyback 25WT all around, 1/2 limit frt, 3/4 rear
-adjustable uppers 2 deg frt
-hpi ribbed pipe (loud!!)
-Dirt bones with yellow dish rims (keeps dirt out)
-4 spider gears front and rear

Truck was working great until I blew up the stock
Nitro Star 25. Was running good and just died.
Pulled off back plate -sheared pin right off crank!!!!

Only signs I had were when you went to start it the one-way
would slip once in a while. Turns out there is nothing wrong
with the bearing.
Could it have been the internal spring slipping?

Sent it back to HPI for warranty replacement.

Pic off my truck (yellow Humvee) second place.
Was running friends old stock 21.
Attached Thumbnails SAVAGE - SS, .25, .21 Official Thread!-james-lead.jpg  
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Old 08-26-2004, 07:16 AM
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when the one way only slips once in a while it usually needs to be cleaned, generally a LHS will tell you to replace it..i tell customers to try cleaning it out first (motor spray, brake clean, etc) , put a TINY drop of lightweight lube in it and try using it again before spending all that money for that little bearing
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Old 08-26-2004, 08:23 AM
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hey jaimzer, my friend has a savage with the integy shocks like yours, he put in 80 wt all around(he thinks it soaks up jumps better) but the thing sags like crazy(once you push the shock down it doesn't come back up) but isn't 25 wt too light? he is going to put 30 up front and 40 in da back, not sure if that will do or not. but the strange thing is that we both race onroad and he cant get any steering(the servo is fine aswell as battery pack). any suggestions?
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Old 08-26-2004, 08:49 AM
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good lord i don't even have 80wt in my on-road car, sagging usually has to do with spring weight..the oil doesn't hold the truck up...the spring does..as far as your steering..either the servo isn't strong enough, you MIGHT have the dual rate turned back on your controller, OR something might be tight or binding in the steering rack
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:22 AM
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Originally posted by macnkitty2002
hey jaimzer, my friend has a savage with the integy shocks like yours, he put in 80 wt all around(he thinks it soaks up jumps better) but the thing sags like crazy(once you push the shock down it doesn't come back up) but isn't 25 wt too light? he is going to put 30 up front and 40 in da back, not sure if that will do or not. but the strange thing is that we both race onroad and he cant get any steering(the servo is fine aswell as battery pack). any suggestions?
I didn't use the original springs (chrome) since they were way to soft. I also limited the shocks because the integy shafts are weak and bend easily. Put a piece of fuel tubing on the inside.
This helps out the handling of the truck tremendously.

The lighter weight that the oil is the quicker the rebound rate
is. If the oil is heavier the slower it will be.

Does your friend have the stock servo?
Make sure he has the correct servo horn adapter. If it is
not the same spline it will strip easily and you will lose steering.
I have learned this the hard way. I upgrade mine to a Hitec 645
metal gear and shaved the knuckles and C-hubs to get tighter
turning. Turns awesome now!!!!!!

Let me know how you make out.
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:36 AM
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you mean replace the foam inside of the resivoir with tubing? and he still has the stock chrome springs that came with the shocks, what ones do you use? ya he has the stock servo. i dont know about the dual rate, not my truck anyways. and the horn adapter is still been untouched. probably just the shocks doing it. what springs do you use jaimzer?
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:12 PM
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The springs I use are the black firm.
Don't replace the foam with the tubing.

If you take the shaft out of the shock, before you put it back in,
slide a piece of tubing on the shaft first.
1/2" on front, 3/4 in on rear.

This is what I would recommend for racing dirt track:

-ride height
Front "arms" level
Rear "dogbones" level
-shocks (indegy shocks are used)
Front 25wt oil with 3/4" internal limiter
Rear 25wt oil with 1/2" internal limitter
-camber (HPI adjustable links used)
Front 3 deg
Rear 3 deg
-toe
Front shorten rod to 43.5mm
Rear shorten rod to 43.5mm
-diffs (ofna diff oil)
Front 7,000 wt w/4 spider gears
Rear 1,000 wt w/4 spider gears
-tires
HPI Dirt Bonez (depends on your track)
-inserts
Inserts Trinity T-max foam insert (firmest and most durable
insert out there, really helps with the steering)
-rims
Velocity Dish, (no dirt build-up)
-servo saver
Monster Pirate Servo Saver
-Radio Gear
Transmitter: Airtronics M8
steering: Hitec 645 servo(133oz)
throttle: Stock sterring servo moved to throttle
battery: 1100 mah 5 cell pack

I use HPI Dirt Bones for the dirt. Not 40 series because there is not enough sidewall to take impact off jumps.
40 Series are know for breaking on hard hits
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:23 PM
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thanks for the info. i will pass it on to my friend. is that set up pretty close for onroad racing aswell? he does alot of that as i do. i rule the onroad track, he rules the offroad.( i guess me being 14 helps b/c no job means more practice time, i guess thats why i am so good)
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:26 PM
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this is the points record for my onroad track. as you can see, i am in 2nd(Mac Scott), and my teamate is in 3rd.
http://home.comcast.net/~bazzz/Resul...oints20046.pdf
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:27 PM
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sorry, meant to tell you, look in the monster truck section. electric touring is my secondary class.
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Old 08-26-2004, 06:14 PM
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Originally posted by jaimzer
...I upgrade mine to a Hitec 645
metal gear and shaved the knuckles and C-hubs to get tighter
turning...
hi there jaimzer i got interested in your post because i could use a bit more steering on my savage. how much material do you have to remove from the knuckles and C-hubs? i am looking at these components in my truck and would appreciate your help before i break out the rotary tool please post pics if you have them. thanks in advance
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Old 08-27-2004, 03:43 AM
  #30  
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Jaimzer:

The last 2 races I've attended, I've had other cars jump the track marking and hit me head on. Suffice to say, I'll be having having alot more say regards track design in future!!

Strange about that slippage occuring with your NS S-25. My guess is that the one way may have a damaged cage, so it grips most times but can slip on occasions. The starting pin's spring maybe damaged, so perhaps the pin may not be engaging everytime. Difficult to say really.

I'd like to try a set of Dirt Bonz - I've heard good things about them.

Pro Line 40 series wheels are just plain weak - if you jump and dont land with a perfect 4 point landing, the wheels distort. Sometimes just ordinary high speed cornering puts too much stress on the wheels, so again - they end up distorted and wobble. On dirt, they may hold up slighty better. But on high traction grass - the wheels really struggle. The 40 bowties work really well on bumpy tracks when used with my Ramtech Viper 40s.

However, they do seem to work much more reliably after the washer/dremmel technique has been done, if people are experiencing the same kind of problems. (I described how to do this on the Truckzilla thread - try it.)

I really cannot understand why people would use 80 weight shock oil in the Savage!! Even for touring cars, I rarely go much high than 50 - 60 weight oil - and that's racing on high traction carpet!
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