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Monster truck opinion?

Monster truck opinion?

Old 01-27-2010, 07:30 AM
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Default Monster truck opinion?

So lets see what everyone running these days. MGT? Savage? T-Maxx? LST?

I own a 3 year old box stock mgt. Never broke anything other than 2 a arms and i have put the truck through hell! I raced it in the glorcs final (one of the biggest races in WNY) and finished 5 out of 14th. I also own a t maxx and i cant even get it to stop without stalling. So obiously for the price of the mgt (399.99) and the price of the t maxx(324.99) your getting SO much more for that 70$. jUST MY opinion let me know what you guys run
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Old 01-28-2010, 09:44 AM
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There is only a handful of worth while monster trucks available, and the guys here run them all.

They are all good and will actually do what your MGT did, if not better. Pick your brand and the style of truck that will allow you to continue to do what your doing with your MT now.

Personally if you like the MGT, I think you would be very happy with the Savage flux or Brushless E Maxx
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Old 01-28-2010, 04:46 PM
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I never got into eletric 1/8. My friend has the savage x and its built very well. The only cmomplaint i have, is the servo linkage.
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Old 01-28-2010, 06:07 PM
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Servo linkage (other than steering) has nothing to do with electric, so Im not sure what you mean.
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Old 01-29-2010, 05:45 AM
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I know i was talking about the nitro 4.6. My other friend has the e savage which is crazy power i cant imagine the flux!
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Old 01-29-2010, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by dschutt
I never got into eletric 1/8. My friend has the savage x and its built very well. The only cmomplaint i have, is the servo linkage.
Go to HPISavageForum.com and search the Ofna Linkage Mod. I think it costs a total of 7-10$ to do, and is amazing.

Definitely go with the Savage, best MT out of the box currently out.
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Old 01-29-2010, 07:00 PM
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I just put my Savage SS 4.6 back together in preparation to sell it. The things I like about it: relatively tough truck out of the box; lots of hop-ups; fun truck to drive.
Things I don't like about it: heavy; TVPs make it difficult to work on it; requires a pullstart or Roto-start engine; weak shocks; needs a guard to protect the fuel tank; the stock diff housings allow the parts inside to move, resulting in a stripped diff; those stupid round shafts on either end of the TVPs (you need to remove the screws in them but if one sticks then the shaft turns with the screw and the screw doesn't come out and there's no way to grab that shaft to hold it still unless you drive a screw into the other side to hold it but what happens if that screw grabs, too?), oh, did I mention that this thing is heavy? Mods done to this truck just to keep it running: I replaced the front and rear diff housings with aluminum ones, added a fuel tank guard, full-length skids, and Losi LST shocks. I had to put a .27 OFNA/Picco engine into it just to make it entertaining to drive because of all that weight. The fuel tank design makes it run rich when the tank is full and it slowly leans as it drains. You tune it rich at the beginning of the run, richen the mixture mid-way through, then double-check it again when you top off. What a pain. I don't know if HPI has addressed any of these issues with their Savage X but I won't be getting one any time soon to find out.

Currently, I really like the Revo. With a forward-only kit in the transmission the drivetrain can handle bigblock power just fine. My brother was running a modified RB Concepts C4 buggy engine in his otherwise stock Revo and it would pop wheelies shifting into second! You couldn't give it more than 1/4 throttle off the line or else it would just flip over. Want to know how many mods I have in my Revo? FOC, single-steering servo mod, HD servo saver spring, and the remaining mods are bling more than for function. It's almost perfect out of the box. I've converted it to electric since I got tired of dealing with tuning nitro engines but I could have left it running nitro without any issues. Only problems that I have found with the Revo with a BB engine are: broken engine mounts if you land a big jump flat on its back; bent exhaust manifold if you land a jump square on the rear bumper. Use a different engine mount and that solves the broken engine mount problem and adding a rear wing should solve the bent manifold problem.

I haven't run the newer T-Maxxes but the older designs almost made me not even look at the Revo. I broke a bulkhead from rolling off a 12" high ledge! Broken shocks were par for the course. Bulkheads break if you look at them wrong. Shock towers break or bend easily. They have a huge aftermarket, though! I still have an E-Maxx (6-cells, bare minimum to keep weight down and it's been going strong so far) and enough parts to make another T but I don't know if I will or not.
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Old 01-30-2010, 12:18 AM
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I run T-maxx 3.3's (extended versions). The First truck I bought New and after about an hour of use I broke a front knuckle. The New style kuckle does not seem as strong as the old ones in my opinion. I also busted the gears out of the stock steering servo. Other than that I wacked the body up a bit but the truck is kinda heavy when it goes topside so Thats not the trucks fault or anything. Upgrades I have on this truck include
Aluminum front steering knuckles
Proline 40 series Big Joe Tires and wheels
1/8 scale buggy shocks
Aluminum skid plates
Airtronics Digital Steering servo
Different front bumper
2.4 airtronics reciver hooked up to my M11 radio
This truck as a little over a gallon of fuel through it and overall I am very happy with it

The second Tmaxx I bought used and it was on around 2 1/2 gallons. It is the truck my wife drives and she has had a problem breaking A-arms but it turns out it had the incorrect lenght pins in place. Its been a great truck otherwise. Absolutley the best running nitro I have ever had. You can crank it and walk away and it will run untill its out of gas or untill you decide to drive around. The only upgrades I have done to this truck is
RPM Aarms on the front
HPI Goliath wheels and Tires

Oh, I forgot to mention that I have twisted the rear Driveshaft on both trucks. I had to go back stock because I didnt have the money for CVD's but I recommend it to anyone with these. Seems to be a repetitive problem. Heck when either truck hits second gear they do a wheelstand even with these larger tires so I cant say that the shafts dont have some strain on them
-Will
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Old 01-30-2010, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Squidward
I just put my Savage SS 4.6 back together in preparation to sell it. The things I like about it: relatively tough truck out of the box; lots of hop-ups; fun truck to drive.
Things I don't like about it: heavy; TVPs make it difficult to work on it; requires a pullstart or Roto-start engine; weak shocks; needs a guard to protect the fuel tank; the stock diff housings allow the parts inside to move, resulting in a stripped diff; those stupid round shafts on either end of the TVPs (you need to remove the screws in them but if one sticks then the shaft turns with the screw and the screw doesn't come out and there's no way to grab that shaft to hold it still unless you drive a screw into the other side to hold it but what happens if that screw grabs, too?), oh, did I mention that this thing is heavy? Mods done to this truck just to keep it running: I replaced the front and rear diff housings with aluminum ones, added a fuel tank guard, full-length skids, and Losi LST shocks. I had to put a .27 OFNA/Picco engine into it just to make it entertaining to drive because of all that weight. The fuel tank design makes it run rich when the tank is full and it slowly leans as it drains. You tune it rich at the beginning of the run, richen the mixture mid-way through, then double-check it again when you top off. What a pain. I don't know if HPI has addressed any of these issues with their Savage X but I won't be getting one any time soon to find out.
Well, I run a Savage too. I don't have the problems you mentioned here.

Using a Roto Start is easier than carrying a starter box along; I'm using a OS30VG engine, and it fire up with only a push of the button of the Roto Start, very good as I don't need to charge the Nimh battery pack as often, I peak charged once and it'll last me 4 weekends of starting (I'm using 3000mAh stick pack).

My rear differential crown gear (cast type, not machined ones) last me at least 3 gallons or more of running. You have to shim them properly, if you have, and still get damaged crown gear, you'll got to replace the plastic differential housing as they might be worn, it's cheap to replace that.

Fuel tank, cut a strip of 2-3mm thickness foam tape and stick it to the fuel tank that facing inside, near to the TVP. That will prevent any excessive vibration, that'll causes crack due to vibrating stress, or hard landing that the fuel tank will hit the TVP.

Half tank lean issue - I've installed a One-Way Valve (for planes use) just before the fuel tank cap, the valve will force in consistent back-pressure to the fuel tank, it'll cost the half tank lean issue and it'll burnt till the last drop.

I'm using HPI Aluminum Body Big Bore Shocks A760 (preload used: 18mm front and back), Savage X Sway Bar Kit #102538 (sway bar used: thin at front and thicker one at rear). It corners like a Truggy, and with the engine I used, the pick up is as fast as a Buggy, I out run the club racers buggy with my moderately mods Savage X.

I don't even have the suspension conversion...

It's a good Monster Truck that's great for bashing, jumping and even racing on track.

Last edited by roychan69; 01-31-2010 at 03:09 AM.
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Old 02-06-2010, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by dschutt
So lets see what everyone running these days. MGT? Savage? T-Maxx? LST?

I own a 3 year old box stock mgt. Never broke anything other than 2 a arms and i have put the truck through hell! I raced it in the glorcs final (one of the biggest races in WNY) and finished 5 out of 14th. I also own a t maxx and i cant even get it to stop without stalling. So obiously for the price of the mgt (399.99) and the price of the t maxx(324.99) your getting SO much more for that 70$. jUST MY opinion let me know what you guys run
How old is the T-Maxx? The first generation engines didn't run the best, but the new Traxxas engines are great for general purpose bashing and they will hold their tune and stay running.

And the T-Maxxes are indestructible. IMO they brought the nitro monster trucks back and helped make the class better than ever.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
And the T-Maxxes are indestructible. IMO they brought the nitro monster trucks back and helped make the class better than ever.
Indestructable? Hardly! The original T-Maxx was, in my experience, quite fragile. The bulkheads and shock towers would break if you crashed lightly. I don't know if the current one with the grey plastic parts is any better than the old ones with the black plastic parts but I sure hope they've improved that over time. If so then I'll upgrade to the new grey plastic parts on my T and E-Maxxs.
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:47 PM
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You will get different opinions from every person here. This is what i've learned. The Savage is a truck more for bashing. Its meant to be run hard off road and beaten on. The parts usually quite tough though, breakage can happen in some weak areas. The T-Maxx is less on bashing as it is grass and street use. It has parts that, once replaced, make the truck good overall. The truck has parts commonly at hobby stores making replacements easy to come by.

A savage Flux is crazy powerful. It is like a more durable Emaxx Bl. The Emaxx has some weaknesses that again, once replaced make a good overall truck. The Emaxx is slightly cheaper and includes a 2.4Ghz radio. They both can do standing backflips so power is enough to show. And both run the same brushless system.

If it was me and i had the choice, I would go for either the Flux or Emax Bl. Then get 3 sets of lipos from hobbycity and call it a day. Where do you run is the question though.
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Squidward
Indestructable? Hardly! The original T-Maxx was, in my experience, quite fragile. The bulkheads and shock towers would break if you crashed lightly. I don't know if the current one with the grey plastic parts is any better than the old ones with the black plastic parts but I sure hope they've improved that over time. If so then I'll upgrade to the new grey plastic parts on my T and E-Maxxs.
The Traxxas that released the original T-Maxx is nothing like the current Traxxas. Traxxas vehicles, for the most part, are indestructible these days. IMO they're the best bashing company because of this. There are Traxxas haters that will bash everything Traxxas does, but the truth is they make great vehicles for the average RCer that doesn't want to race. If this wasn't true the T-Maxx, Stampedes, Slashes, etc. wouldn't be as popular as they are.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper
There are Traxxas haters that will bash everything Traxxas does, but the truth is they make great vehicles for the average RCer that doesn't want to race.
I hope that sentence wasn't referring to me. After all, I was quoted by you. BTW, I'm strictly a basher.

Let me tell you a little story. Years ago I was given an original T-Maxx. When I received it the front bulkhead and shock tower were broken. The hingepins were bent, too. I repaired it with the intent to sell it to make a quick buck but I played with it and found that it was a fun little truck, just rather fragile. Fast forward some 8 years and I still have that T-Maxx as well as an E-Maxx, a parts T-Maxx, and an E-Revo. Traxxas hater? Moi? Hardly. Now, the thing is, at one point I couldn't run a full tank through my T-Maxx without breaking it somehow. I was going through front bulkheads left and right. Glad they come in pairs, no? Not only that, but, at one point I aborted a run at a 15" tall ramp, slamming the brakes at the last possible moment and rolling gently over the edge of it. Broke a front bulkhead. I got to the point where a shock rebuild involved CA glue so that I would avoid blowing the shock caps on my first or second landing from a jump.

Want further evidence? I can't seem to find it right now but I recall seeing a thread recently where the person had just bought a new T-Maxx and was asking what he should upgrade on it to make it more fun. Most everyone told him to buy new aluminum bulkheads and shock towers right off the bat. Gee, that's a bullet-proof truck when people tell you to upgrade a perfectly good, brand new part on it before you've even had a chance to break in the engine.

Am I biased? Hardly. More like experienced. Maybe I just run my stuff harder than most average folks, but when I'm jumping an otherwise stock Revo (with Traxxas BB conversion) 15+ feet into the air and landing it some 25+ feet away from the ramp and not breaking anything, you would expect a monster truck from the same company to be able to handle smaller jumps, too, wouldn't you? In case you think that I had a bad truck, my nephew was given a T-Maxx, too, a year or two later. My brother took his son out to play with it after they broke in the engine and came back with the fuel tank almost full, broken bulkhead, and blown shocks. What did he do? He ran it down a short flight of stairs (four steps). My brother gave that truck away a week later because he just got frustrated with it.

In a different forum I recall replying to an inquiry about whether the poster should get a T-Maxx or a Savage. I told him most of what I typed here and he still went with the T because of the awesome aftermarket support for this truck. He later reported that, during break-in, he gently rolled his truck at the end of his driveway and broke a shock tower on his second tank of fuel.

Tough truck? Hardly. Not by my experience at least. I'm sure that there are others who would share my sentiment.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:02 AM
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I have the 3.3 t maxx 4908....and I run it like a mad man.....its very durable I have only broken 2 lowerarm pins in a year and a half.....parts are dirt cheap and every where...and the 3.3 when tuned right .....awsome.....
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