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Did not like any plastic ones in the market, and the alloy ones that I liked were all too heavy, so I fashioned some home made ones from some alloy bars I had laying around. Here are some pics. The first pics are of the bars that I used.

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Here's a rear pic with the body on. The skids are home made as well but is temporary since I am working on one that has a rubber roller built into the skids to serve as a wheelie bar as well.

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The front was a little harder to make since it has more curves but it came nicer than I thought. I was suprised that the new bumpers are actually lighter than the stock plastic ones and are stronger to boot.

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Here's another angle. It's quite thin but strong. This is perfect for racing since they don't add any unwanted weight.

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I used fuel tubing and some zip ties to protect the top fin from getting scratched and hopefully even dents. I also used some zip ties and fuel tubing to keep my body clips from coming off and the long fuel tubing that is attached to each body clip prevents me from loosing them. I did the same thing to the front body clips but used different colored zip ties kind of color coding them, makes it easier to tell which sets are for what.

SavageHPI

Those bumpers and your whole truck look good.

centax error!

sweeeeeeeeeet do you have more pics?

SixVi6-Camaro

It looks really nice but sheesh.. do you ever run that thing?

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Thanks for all the compliments. Believe it or not I do run this thing, I actually run it hard that's why I needed to rebuild the motor and change some of the plastic parts that I broke with some alloy one. This is actually in it's basher form but could be set up to race if I need to do so on the weekends. I either get existing ideas and improve on it or sometimes I just find myself staring at the truck and see something I can either modify or change. If I can't find it out in the market then I just make one. My next project is to improve on my older design of my fuel tank protector. I had one done for my old chassis but now that I have the Fullforce chassis I need to make one. I tried drilling a couple of holes through the Spider chassis but broke 2 drill bits. Damn this chassis is tough. Well here comes the pics.
Here's a chassis shot. Some new skid plates are in the works. My plan is to make a rear skidplate with built in rubber rollers that are almost flush to the body of the skids, I don't like the funny looking ones that look like trainer wheels taken from a kid's bike. The front skid will be custom as well. I'm trying copy the offroad skid plates on full size trucks. I'll post pics when I eventually get this done. Don't mind the temporary ones. I broke the plastic ones so I needed a quick fix, they're ugly but they're functional.

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Got this idea from the rear wheel drive AE GT and Losis, and adapted it to the Maxx. I took out the battery receiver case and relocated the hump pack to the front towers for more neutral weight transfer. Made an alloy tray to hold and protect the battery. The main tray is held and secured by the 2 upper screws used to secure the shock towers to the bulk heads. I am currently using titanium screws on this part of the truck to give it more added strength while shedding some weight. This one is the prototype and I am still working on the final one.

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Since I removed the receiver battery case I now need a new location for the switch. I decided to mount in on the receiver case, I am getting a new receiver case that will have some alloy sheets as accents to add some bling bling factor. The switch will be moved to the top to avoid any accidents from happening. While I was at it I had to relocate the Voltwatch receiver battery led status indicator, I decided to cut a window on the receiver case and mount it inside for added protection and a custom look. I have also mounted the Venom Failsafe inside the receiver case and as well as the Futaba receiver. A tight fit but it all worked out.

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here is the custom brace I made to hold the Venom on-board temp guage. Yes that is a Venom and was formally avocado green but I took it apart and airbrushed it the same color as the stock Traxxas chassis.

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I changed the stock brakes with a Penguin RC carbon fiver disc brakes, and added the RRP brake pads for better performance. I wanted to make sure that the brake was not dragging which is the number one source of brake fade because of the brake rotor overheating so I put the smallest spring I can find that will fit between the screws and the pads. Now the brakes are more consistent and brake fade is kept to a minimum.

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from front to back driver side. This is my actual bashing body, I am working on a new body for my show off or store body only.
This is my 2nd airbrush work and I was practicing different techiques.

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this one is with the stock chasis and old configuration before the other hop ups.