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hpi savage 4.6 kit

hpi savage 4.6 kit

Old 12-14-2008, 10:32 AM
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Default hpi savage 4.6 kit

hey guys, new to the site but been around rc cars since i were a kid. about 4 years back i built the adam drake kit and since then really havent done much with rc cars. im lookin around again and want to get the savage 4.6 kit. just wonderin if anyone has built it and how difficult it is. otherwise i might just get rtr. but i love building them just dont know how much has changed since i last built the adam drake years ago. oh and also your opinion on the car, good? bad?
thanks!

toby



(this is posted in the nitro off-road but i soon relized it should be posted here. sorry)
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:53 PM
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I built the 4.6SS kit a while ago and it wasn't that hard. If you've built a Drake kit, believe you'll have no probs. HPIs instructions are pretty good - only confusion I've seen was putting clutch together and that was due to a less than clear pic in the instructions. If you've every done a clutch before, you knew what the pic intended and got it together right anyway.
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Old 12-14-2008, 02:58 PM
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ya if you have built the drake cars youll have no prob. there really easy, and the only reson he probably had a prob with the clutch is he probably neer done one. and a savage is the best basher hands down, but not a racer really at all.
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Old 12-14-2008, 04:32 PM
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awesome! what kind of electronics do you suggest to put in? just kind of want a decent one, was thinkin maybe jr x3 or something? also what else do i need with this build?
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Old 12-14-2008, 05:29 PM
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If you can find one, I'd suggest getting a hex head screw kit for the truck also. It's not a bad build, but if you plan on racing, it's not a good platform. It can be done, but requires alot of time and money to make it competitive.
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:42 PM
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what do you guys think about this kit? futaba radio and everything? oh yea, i dont plan on racing, just wanna play again.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LZ0065**
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Old 12-14-2008, 07:52 PM
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I bought a Tony's screw kit with mine and trashed the stock screws - I hate those phillips headed woodscrew things, they're worthless!! If you want to, shimming the diffs is not a bad idea, but not required, I waited til mine needed service 4 or 5 months later and then replaced brgs and shimmed them. I originally put grease in the diffs and didn't like that. I changed and went with silicon diff oil - like the way it drives a lot better.

Don't use the oil included for shocks, its too light and its just cheap oil, go buy some real 30-40wt shock oil, it will make shocks work much better. Servos - need something at least 175inoz or better for strg, I used hitec 5985 and a 5965 for throttle/brake. But I think the 5985 has been discontinued.

The foam tire liners included with mine were glued together so crooked and were way too soft anyway so I didn't use them. I used a set of proline gray foam liners. I wouldn't use the HPI liners unless they've included much better ones than I got.

BTW, it wasn't me that was confused about the clutch - I knew enough to know not to use the thick brass spacer HPI designed clutch around - it wears pretty quickly and causes clutch probs. I run carbon mugen shoes and springs which I think are better. There were several of us who got these about same time posting on RCCA and others had probs and it was illustraion in the instructions. I didn't use the HPI clutch shoes or CB so mine doesn't use that brass spacer and its spaced correctly on the crank.

One last tip - the alum clutch shoes get CB hot enough, it was melting the plastic spur gear after engine was shut off where it was touching the CB pinion. I used a vented ofna bell and haven't had the prob. Obviously this was more of a prob in the summer than the dead of winter, but I'd recommend a vented CB. I hope HPI has made some adjustments in the kit since I built mine, mines 2yrs old. Wasn't a lot wrong with it to start with, but these little changes made it even better.
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:17 PM
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so there is two kits, ones a savage x and the other is a savage x ss. is the ss just better and stronger parts?
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Old 12-14-2008, 08:39 PM
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The Savage x has a 4.1 engine

The Savage x SS (super sport) has a 4.6 motor and a clear body so that you can paint it

Those are the only difference
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Old 12-14-2008, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by pinky2252s
The Savage x has a 4.1 engine

The Savage x SS (super sport) has a 4.6 motor and a clear body so that you can paint it

Those are the only difference
Not true. The Savage X is a RTR - already built and includes (nearly) everything needed to run, minus the batteries etc.

The Savage X SS is a kit.
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Old 12-15-2008, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zaner123
Not true. The Savage X is a RTR - already built and includes (nearly) everything needed to run, minus the batteries etc.

The Savage X SS is a kit.

Yes, but you can buy an x kit also
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Old 12-15-2008, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterFast3
what do you guys think about this kit? futaba radio and everything? oh yea, i dont plan on racing, just wanna play again.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1p?&I=LZ0065**
that is good. i would suggest better servos though. go with some jrs or hitecs
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Old 12-22-2008, 01:03 AM
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Default i broke it

Hey guys im a total newby i got a good deal on a couple of cars and the the savage i have managed to brake, i think i have burnt out clutch shoes, i had to change the 1,2nd gear timing second gear wasnt coming on so i went through the proceedure i seen on utube the car clicked into second and everything was fine for about a tank and a half then the car just sat there and rev'd when i lifted the car the wheels turn but on acceleration or under load there is no wheel movment ive pulled the gearbox diffs apart and there seems to be no problem there i have clutchbell and clutch shoes off but before i buy new a new one i thought i could confirm that this is the problem any help would be appreciated
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