Getting T-Maxx race ready?
04-30-2003, 02:38 PM
#46
Tech Apprentice
Here's a closer veiw to see how the throttle servo linkage is connected
[IMG]closer veiw of linkage[/IMG]
[IMG]closer veiw of linkage[/IMG]
04-30-2003, 08:28 PM
#47
Tech Apprentice
Originally posted by synapse79
mellon
I
I was thinking about selling the 2.5 new on ebay and getting the sirio... where i race they only allow small blocks..
mellon
I
I was thinking about selling the 2.5 new on ebay and getting the sirio... where i race they only allow small blocks..
04-30-2003, 09:47 PM
#48
Tech Adept
yeah, im not confused...
Im looking to get a better small block
Im looking to get a better small block
04-30-2003, 09:49 PM
#49
Tech Adept
im looking to replace the shox with some 1/8th buggy shox. Do i want fronts? to match the length...
i believe ofna threaded fronts are 4 1/8, and so are the ASC blue shox for the maxx...
i believe ofna threaded fronts are 4 1/8, and so are the ASC blue shox for the maxx...
05-01-2003, 02:03 AM
#50
Tech Apprentice
1/8 scale shocks
I tried using four 1/8th scale shocks, but I kept bending the shock shafts on the fronts. 
05-01-2003, 05:59 AM
#51
Tech Adept
mellon
what make were they?
did you use fronts or rears?
what make were they?
did you use fronts or rears?
I will be putting in the modified M16 in this weekend for some initial testing. Next thing is tires or forward only thingy.
05-01-2003, 08:40 AM
#53
Tech Elite
T-Maxx shocks
Guys;
I'm still using the Stock T-Maxx shocks with RPM Dual Stage Pistons inside. Really works good, the Truck is hooked up where ever I race it.
Only problem is once in a while I'll pop a Shock Cap in a Hard landing. Some Silicone Gasket Sealer on the Threads seems to have eliminated most of the problem.
I'm still using the Stock T-Maxx shocks with RPM Dual Stage Pistons inside. Really works good, the Truck is hooked up where ever I race it.
Only problem is once in a while I'll pop a Shock Cap in a Hard landing. Some Silicone Gasket Sealer on the Threads seems to have eliminated most of the problem.
05-01-2003, 08:43 AM
#54
Tech Elite
Pit-racer;
You'll really like the Forward only Gear. Gets rid of the Jerking at idle and much smoother clutch action. If your racing you won't need reverse anyways.
The Bow-ties work GREAT on just about any normal racing surface. If it gets really soft and fluffy (with alot of sand), then Step-Pins may be a better choice.
The Bow-ties work GREAT on just about any normal racing surface. If it gets really soft and fluffy (with alot of sand), then Step-Pins may be a better choice.
05-01-2003, 08:46 AM
#55
Tech Adept
do you have alum shock caps? traxxas makes them...
05-01-2003, 09:02 AM
#56
Tech Elite
synapse79;
No.
I believe that the problem is NOT the Cap, but the Plasic Shock bodies themselves. If we raced it a little more then I would spring for the Aluminum Bodies/Shocks. Maybe when On-Road racing slows down later in the year.
I believe that the problem is NOT the Cap, but the Plasic Shock bodies themselves. If we raced it a little more then I would spring for the Aluminum Bodies/Shocks. Maybe when On-Road racing slows down later in the year.
05-01-2003, 09:29 AM
#57
Tech Adept
that would be the best, but i know the alum caps help...
05-01-2003, 01:01 PM
#58
Tech Apprentice
Alum caps are okay. The Traxxas hardbody 'shock' is better. I noticed sometime back that in most cases where the caps were blown off it was either due to the shock shaft bottoming out causing the piston to pop off the cap or too much oil in the shock which builds up too much pack at full compression. Easy fix's are 2-3 shock O-rings on the outside of the shock body on the shock shaft. And or only filling the shock up to the bottom of the threads on the shock.
Personally I prefer to run Losi shocks all around on mine. They are idiot proof to bleed and never blow a shock cap off.
As for the 1/8 scale shocks. Well most serious racers have found that 1/8 scale shocks are fine for buggys. But the Maxx has much more suspension travel, generally weighs more and has much bigger tires. The combination of large heavy tires and long travel are really too much for a single shock to dampen properly. The longer leverage and mass of the big tires is more than even a single 1/8 scale shock can dampen consistantly. There's a good reason for 2 shocks on each arm.
Personally I prefer to run Losi shocks all around on mine. They are idiot proof to bleed and never blow a shock cap off.
As for the 1/8 scale shocks. Well most serious racers have found that 1/8 scale shocks are fine for buggys. But the Maxx has much more suspension travel, generally weighs more and has much bigger tires. The combination of large heavy tires and long travel are really too much for a single shock to dampen properly. The longer leverage and mass of the big tires is more than even a single 1/8 scale shock can dampen consistantly. There's a good reason for 2 shocks on each arm.
05-01-2003, 01:47 PM
#59
Re: Pit-racer;
Originally posted by popsracer
You'll really like the Forward only Gear. Gets rid of the Jerking at idle and much smoother clutch action. If your racing you won't need reverse anyways.
The Bow-ties work GREAT on just about any normal racing surface. If it gets really soft and fluffy (with alot of sand), then Step-Pins may be a better choice.
You'll really like the Forward only Gear. Gets rid of the Jerking at idle and much smoother clutch action. If your racing you won't need reverse anyways.
The Bow-ties work GREAT on just about any normal racing surface. If it gets really soft and fluffy (with alot of sand), then Step-Pins may be a better choice.
05-02-2003, 07:17 AM
#60
popsracer: just installed my forward only gear and after taking out those "uneeded" gears, this thing should be more responsive.