4LikesMarui Super Wheelie and Big Bear - a project including CAD
04-02-2023, 06:09 AM
#31
The pinion gear and idler gears are going to fail bad. in nylon. Good only for display. The idler gear in stock metal was the weak gear as was the plastic idler gear in the hunter/galaxiy. The zamac stock metal gears will hold up longer than nylon. Sourcing 0..8 pinon gear stock is going to cost more. today. Which is why I stockpiled all the gears for these kits. It's best to just Rember the good old days and display these kits as time has moved on to better products.
04-02-2023, 06:33 AM
#32
post the link to buy the gears.
04-04-2023, 03:13 AM
#33
I put it there:
silvertriple by silvertriple - Shapeways Shops
it can be ordered in both PA12 and PA12/GF (glass filled). That being said for those with 3D printer, they know that filled filament tend to be highly abrasive (they deplete brass and aluminium nozzle very quickly) : maybe I should put a warning about this for Glass Filled nylon...
silvertriple by silvertriple - Shapeways Shops
it can be ordered in both PA12 and PA12/GF (glass filled). That being said for those with 3D printer, they know that filled filament tend to be highly abrasive (they deplete brass and aluminium nozzle very quickly) : maybe I should put a warning about this for Glass Filled nylon...
04-10-2023, 02:32 AM
#34
Since I started the experimentation with the Flex resin printed tires, I have a big question remaining in my mind... Would it be possible to print a Big Bear tire this way...
I've opened chitubox, put the tire in (not much ways to change the orientation), added supports and looked at it:
It appears my printer's bed is way too small for this... I'll have to try the molding way...
I've opened chitubox, put the tire in (not much ways to change the orientation), added supports and looked at it:
It appears my printer's bed is way too small for this... I'll have to try the molding way...
05-25-2023, 12:07 PM
#35
I was in a vintage event last week-end (Montluçonnaise 2023). I went there wth 16 cars, and all made at least a few laps of run during the event...
And this included the Big Bear, the Super Wheelie and the Hunter (I still need to mount a video of the runs :-) )...
The Big Bear ran a lap and about 2/3 of a second one, and then stop and did not move anymore (it run around a house at home a bit more).
Upon inspection, the 9T on the idle gear did not survived the run. I will need to find a better solution for this. A test with nylon glass filled was even shorter two weeks ago, so I pulled the gears from shapeways, as unless I can find a solution working for the Big Bear, there is no point proposing this.
It clearly needs to see a dentist :-). I replaced it by another one, and will try again during next event or before (one mentioned that some grease may have impact on the gears)...
For the Super Wheelie, on Saturday, i put it on the track, and it made about 3 meters... What a success! I opened the gearbox on the next day and it was the pinion which required to be tightened correctly, and I was able to run it for quite a good 7 minutes and the transmission is still alive. I will do more tries next event. For the Hunter, it ran quite nicely with a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. I made a 7 minutes session with it, and again the transmission is still alive at the end. That being said, there was some transmission noice probably due to diff skips. Something I did not have with the Super Wheelie. I've planed to open it for inspection before next event...
Beside this, I've modified my 3 parts printable chassis to ease printability. The best way to print those part is with a quite unconventional orientation, and it happens that elements in the air (on top of supports) are not always perfect. Adding walls to join them to the other side shoul make this easier to print. I did it when I thought it would bring improvements.
- at the rear of the center part : a top bar with the same thickness as bot side of the chassis, and a wall of 1 mm which can be removed afterwards easily.
- on the front part, I bridged the parts
The better orientation I found for the print is on the antenna post for the rear part, angled on the battery pod and rear for the center part and on the rear top upside down for the front.
I've checked holes and nuts dimension : holes need to be drilled to the right diameter (I won't change the tolerance as in case one wants to print it in MJF it is fine while it may be tight for FDM depending on the printer), and nuts are entering in their position when force is applied which means they won't move to much if the chassis needs to be tear down for maintenance, unless you really want to get the nuts out...
Still a few checks to do, but soon this will be published.
And this included the Big Bear, the Super Wheelie and the Hunter (I still need to mount a video of the runs :-) )...
The Big Bear ran a lap and about 2/3 of a second one, and then stop and did not move anymore (it run around a house at home a bit more).
Upon inspection, the 9T on the idle gear did not survived the run. I will need to find a better solution for this. A test with nylon glass filled was even shorter two weeks ago, so I pulled the gears from shapeways, as unless I can find a solution working for the Big Bear, there is no point proposing this.
It clearly needs to see a dentist :-). I replaced it by another one, and will try again during next event or before (one mentioned that some grease may have impact on the gears)...
For the Super Wheelie, on Saturday, i put it on the track, and it made about 3 meters... What a success! I opened the gearbox on the next day and it was the pinion which required to be tightened correctly, and I was able to run it for quite a good 7 minutes and the transmission is still alive. I will do more tries next event. For the Hunter, it ran quite nicely with a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor. I made a 7 minutes session with it, and again the transmission is still alive at the end. That being said, there was some transmission noice probably due to diff skips. Something I did not have with the Super Wheelie. I've planed to open it for inspection before next event...
Beside this, I've modified my 3 parts printable chassis to ease printability. The best way to print those part is with a quite unconventional orientation, and it happens that elements in the air (on top of supports) are not always perfect. Adding walls to join them to the other side shoul make this easier to print. I did it when I thought it would bring improvements.
- at the rear of the center part : a top bar with the same thickness as bot side of the chassis, and a wall of 1 mm which can be removed afterwards easily.
- on the front part, I bridged the parts
The better orientation I found for the print is on the antenna post for the rear part, angled on the battery pod and rear for the center part and on the rear top upside down for the front.
I've checked holes and nuts dimension : holes need to be drilled to the right diameter (I won't change the tolerance as in case one wants to print it in MJF it is fine while it may be tight for FDM depending on the printer), and nuts are entering in their position when force is applied which means they won't move to much if the chassis needs to be tear down for maintenance, unless you really want to get the nuts out...
Still a few checks to do, but soon this will be published.
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