19LikesReally impressed with the Maxx
09-02-2020, 07:46 AM
#16
Had I never built a truggified Typhon, I probably would've purchased a Kraton 6s a couple years ago. And I think it is probably a better overall vehicle than the Erevo 2.0, but it just depends on what you want. In a way I just felt no need need for the Kraton, after selling the Typhon (which is really similar) and also owning a AE RC8T3.1E (which I use for track but also occasionally bash.) They are just different vehicles. And like I said, for what I was looking for I wanted a Maxx over those other 2 and don't regret it. For me right now, I am having more fun with it than I had with my Arrma or my Erevo. Mainly because the Arrma just didn't quite have enough ground clearance, even though the handling and jumping was amazing. And while my Erevo was super fun, it because a bit of a money pit, like I said. I think the 2.0 probably fixed a lot of that but still it's a "been there done that" thing for me. The 2.0 isn't different enough for me to be interested. The Maxx is a bit over-priced, when you look at the Erevo and Kraton getting more truck for your $. But even though on paper that is true, I still actually like the Maxx better. And that is after some upgrades. Doing the Proline LP Badlands, the Widemaxx kit w stiffer springs (and heavier oil than Traxxas suggested), along with the TQI link puts the Maxx right there, in performance.
09-02-2020, 09:43 AM
#17
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
I've been looking at batteries.
I have an Onyx 3S 5400 50C soft case and it just swims in the battery bay. The local shop had it for $85, ouch. Sometimes, its expensive, supporting them. Needs padding on the top and either in front or behind it. Not an ideal choice, but I think it will also fit in all my other 3S-capable vehicles.
Two of these PowerHobby 4S 5200 50C soft cases arrived and are charging right now. They are a perfect fit, height-wise, with the spacer installed on the top latch, and maybe 3/4" either in front or behind it.
I have an Onyx 3S 5400 50C soft case and it just swims in the battery bay. The local shop had it for $85, ouch. Sometimes, its expensive, supporting them. Needs padding on the top and either in front or behind it. Not an ideal choice, but I think it will also fit in all my other 3S-capable vehicles.
Two of these PowerHobby 4S 5200 50C soft cases arrived and are charging right now. They are a perfect fit, height-wise, with the spacer installed on the top latch, and maybe 3/4" either in front or behind it.
09-02-2020, 12:28 PM
#18
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
I just got back from running my first 4S pack through the Maxx. In my small forest preserve clearing (maybe 60 yards by 30 yards) I never got past 1/2 throttle, and that was pushing it. Across a big field, I got it to full throttle, but not for long.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
09-02-2020, 09:02 PM
#19
Off-topic, but I'll comment on this. I cross-shopped E-Revo 2.0 against the Maxx. (it's only $50 more than the Maxx now) On paper, it's more capable than the Maxx, as its power system can go up to 6S. It has a wider stance and longer wheelbase, so no widening kit is needed for it to handle flatter) I've always liked the lay-down shock idea too: not only can we change the spring rate and damping rate, but we can also change the stroke length drastically just by changing those links. (a conventional design only allows small changes, by changing shock mounting points) It also would have more than made up for its extra $50 in price because I can use all my 2S LiPos to run it on 4S. On the other hand, the front suspension pushrods are susceptible to getting bent easily, and there is the issue with the rear rods popping off too easily. The diff issue seems to be fixed on the 2.0, and it gets the latch-down body and a couple other things too.
In the end, I went with the Maxx anyway, because it is just a more rugged truck. Oh, and it IS a truck, rather than a tiny car body on a truggy frame. :-)
I had an E-Revo BL before and had a nice 1970 truck body on it; loved it. Probably should've kept it instead of the Summit, as I don't find myself crawling at all.
In the end, I went with the Maxx anyway, because it is just a more rugged truck. Oh, and it IS a truck, rather than a tiny car body on a truggy frame. :-)
I had an E-Revo BL before and had a nice 1970 truck body on it; loved it. Probably should've kept it instead of the Summit, as I don't find myself crawling at all.
I expect monster trucks to go barreling over small obstacles with no mercy or remorse, and the tradeoff for the necessary ground clearance to do that is squishy handling. That said, I did equip my two T-Maxxes with homemade front swaybars made from 3/32" piano wire, to keep them from traction-rolling every single time I slowed-down for a corner.
You're right about the Revo's cantilever shocks having more adjustments. They don't need to be laydown shocks to use cantilevers, but that does seem to be the most common design. As you say, cantilevers are the reason the Revo chassis can be a monster truck or an oversized truggy with only minimal changes, and no doubt that flexibility is why Traxxas decided to use the cantilever design in the first place -- one platform to rule them all.
09-02-2020, 09:08 PM
#20
I recently got a Kraton, and kind of regret it. It's not really the truck's fault though. Bit complicated, but basically I wanted a Kraton about five years ago, before Horizon got their hands on them. I saw all the AussRCPlayground vids, and was convinced they were tough and good value. Anyway, fast forward five years to Covid downtime, and I got back into cars a bit. Decided to treat myself, and lo and behold, Kratons weren't even available. Though Hobbyking was functioning just fine, mega-overpriced Horizon could not guarantee Kraton and other availability - their whole reason for being... I did find a new unused Kraton 6S V4 for €500 though, so bought that. Along with two 6S lipos for €100. Two weeks later Kratons started coming back in stock, of course with a nice price hike, bringing them up to about €589. They were €429 back five years or so ago..
So now, in addition to two MT4 G3s (great trucks, and availability of used ones is good here in Germany), 1 1/2 converted Tamiyas, and a whole garage full of 8th scale nitro offroad stuff, and an Ofna DM-1, numerous minis, etc etc.., I have the Kraton, and I guess the need to start stocking up on parts. So far I have bought alu chassis braces and an RPM bumper. One of the reasons I gout out of cars five years ago is that they are ridiculous money pits, and you can't sell them for sensible prices.. Especially in the 8th scale racing scene. I still find it ridiculous that you pay a grand for an 8th scale race buggy or truggy, then 6-8 months later it's perceived as outdated, and loses tons of value.
Anyway, so far the Kraton is excellent. It drives great, hauls axx, and all around seems like good quality. I have periodically been running my MT4 G3 and converted TRF801XT Tamiya on 4S for 5+ years now. 6S really IS a whole new ball game. It's mental, and I like it. BUT, I'm still not willing to dive down the black hole money pit that I'm sure it will turn into, especially on 6S. 4S was great - no issue, minimal wear and tear, etc.. I am getting worried though that the Kraton will start having more and more expensive issues - not due to bad quality or anything, but just becase of 6S. I definitely trust it better to hold up to 6S than any Traxxas ever would though.. So I'm thinking very hard about selling the Kraton, even at a loss. Before it starts having major issues. 6S is fun, but I'm stubborn about what I'm willing to invest in money and time for upkeep.
5+ years ago you could get LST2 or RC8T etc.. spare diffs for under €40. Well now, thanks largely mostly to Horizon, a Kraton diff costs €60+, and with as much other RC stuff as I have to keep up and running, that kind of cost to keep one car up and going, well I'm not sure I want to plunge down that hole.. Not totally sure yet, but the crappy availability of Horizon in Europe..(worst RC company ever IMVHO), plus the stupid high prices, has me doubting the wisdom of keeping it.
I will say this - 6S is a LOT of fun. I definitely like the speed runs up and down the road and the challenge of keeping it under control. 4S is slow motion in comparison... I am holding off of big jumping. One, due to lack of cool spots, but two also just because I don't want to have to spend tons of time and money repairing it. Not a cool-guy basher mentality, I know. But unlike all those hotshot show-off freebie whoxxs on Youtube, I actually have to pay for my stuff...
So now, in addition to two MT4 G3s (great trucks, and availability of used ones is good here in Germany), 1 1/2 converted Tamiyas, and a whole garage full of 8th scale nitro offroad stuff, and an Ofna DM-1, numerous minis, etc etc.., I have the Kraton, and I guess the need to start stocking up on parts. So far I have bought alu chassis braces and an RPM bumper. One of the reasons I gout out of cars five years ago is that they are ridiculous money pits, and you can't sell them for sensible prices.. Especially in the 8th scale racing scene. I still find it ridiculous that you pay a grand for an 8th scale race buggy or truggy, then 6-8 months later it's perceived as outdated, and loses tons of value.
Anyway, so far the Kraton is excellent. It drives great, hauls axx, and all around seems like good quality. I have periodically been running my MT4 G3 and converted TRF801XT Tamiya on 4S for 5+ years now. 6S really IS a whole new ball game. It's mental, and I like it. BUT, I'm still not willing to dive down the black hole money pit that I'm sure it will turn into, especially on 6S. 4S was great - no issue, minimal wear and tear, etc.. I am getting worried though that the Kraton will start having more and more expensive issues - not due to bad quality or anything, but just becase of 6S. I definitely trust it better to hold up to 6S than any Traxxas ever would though.. So I'm thinking very hard about selling the Kraton, even at a loss. Before it starts having major issues. 6S is fun, but I'm stubborn about what I'm willing to invest in money and time for upkeep.
5+ years ago you could get LST2 or RC8T etc.. spare diffs for under €40. Well now, thanks largely mostly to Horizon, a Kraton diff costs €60+, and with as much other RC stuff as I have to keep up and running, that kind of cost to keep one car up and going, well I'm not sure I want to plunge down that hole.. Not totally sure yet, but the crappy availability of Horizon in Europe..(worst RC company ever IMVHO), plus the stupid high prices, has me doubting the wisdom of keeping it.
I will say this - 6S is a LOT of fun. I definitely like the speed runs up and down the road and the challenge of keeping it under control. 4S is slow motion in comparison... I am holding off of big jumping. One, due to lack of cool spots, but two also just because I don't want to have to spend tons of time and money repairing it. Not a cool-guy basher mentality, I know. But unlike all those hotshot show-off freebie whoxxs on Youtube, I actually have to pay for my stuff...
If you want to keep running 6S, the best investment you can make is a set of Pro-Line belted monster truck tires. Belted tires have better traction at high speeds, which means you'll crash less. Other than that, as long as the slipper clutch is set so it actually slips, you shouldn't destroy the drivetrain -- that is the point of a slipper clutch, after all.
09-02-2020, 10:06 PM
#21
I just got back from running my first 4S pack through the Maxx. In my small forest preserve clearing (maybe 60 yards by 30 yards) I never got past 1/2 throttle, and that was pushing it. Across a big field, I got it to full throttle, but not for long.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
09-02-2020, 10:48 PM
#22
Originally Posted by ;15685227
I don't think it's fair to blame Horizon for higher parts prices. Remember Horizon bought Hobbico (Arrma's parent company) because Hobbico went bankrupt, and the only way to go bankrupt is to earn less money than you spend.
If you want to keep running 6S, the best investment you can make is a set of Pro-Line belted monster truck tires. Belted tires have better traction at high speeds, which means you'll crash less. Other than that, as long as the slipper clutch is set so it actually slips, you shouldn't destroy the drivetrain -- that is the point of a slipper clutch, after all.
If you want to keep running 6S, the best investment you can make is a set of Pro-Line belted monster truck tires. Belted tires have better traction at high speeds, which means you'll crash less. Other than that, as long as the slipper clutch is set so it actually slips, you shouldn't destroy the drivetrain -- that is the point of a slipper clutch, after all.
The hobby scene has changed a lot in the last years, and Horizon's business model is to pump up the marketing, as usual, while increasing prices, but in many cases - at least in planes as I have scene - to really reduce quality as well(gotta' cut corners somewhere to deal with the likes of Hobbyking, Banggood, and co..) So in a way they want to have their cake and eat it too - charge the high prices, which used to be somewhat justified by a broad presence in LHSs, availability, higher quality, etc etc.. But it isn't anymore. Well here in Europe none of that applies. They rearranged their whole business in Europe several years ago, and it's an utter trainwreck. To some extent it's a bit of apples and oranges comparing Horizon US to Horizon EU, as they are very different, but here in Europe? Awful company... They have become very much more like Traxxas over the years when you think about it. Huge marketing hype - and huge prices to go with it. Nothing good comes from Horizon taking over other RC companies afaic.
Also, your description of why Hobbico went bankrupt is too simplistic. I'm sure there were various reasons... One thing I never lose sight of, despite my addiction, is that there is pretty much nothing in life less important than RC. I.e. it's not a business I would ever go into...(I guess there are two good reasons for some people to do so though - passion - ala Losi, Arrma originally, etc.. And then pure capitalistic investor-driven profit-squeezing greed. Ala Horizon...)
As for 6S carnage, I am less worried about crashing from the speed - the fun is controlling it, not losing control. Though sure, there is a risk of that.. But no, the main concern is having the truck destroy itself from the inside out simply due to the power. Which of course it will do at a much higher rate than I was used to on 4S. And when a stupid little diff costs €65.... Assuming you can even find one on this continent...
A Kraton has a slipper clutch?..
Sorry for all the OT. But then again, at least there is some discussion going on. RCTech has been really dead of late...
09-03-2020, 06:50 AM
#23
I just got back from running my first 4S pack through the Maxx. In my small forest preserve clearing (maybe 60 yards by 30 yards) I never got past 1/2 throttle, and that was pushing it. Across a big field, I got it to full throttle, but not for long.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
The suspension is way too plush. I think it needs firmer springs AND thicker fluid, or it squats and bottoms out too easily at speed and off of 3' high jumps.
At 1/2 throttle on 3S, it's about right just for plush cruising.
And I agree that 4S the thing really moves. I think it is perfect. Just fast enough. Any more would just be weird and I don't think it handles speeds above that very well anyways. Also once you get going, you really have to watch the brakes. I have slowed down from a speed run across the field and the weight shift sent it cart-wheeling forward.
09-03-2020, 06:52 AM
#24
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
On the jumps you do in your video, typically maybe 10' high, that seems high enough to justify thicker shock oil in the front too....or do you not consider that part of general bashing?
Interesting about the center diff. Traxxas advertises some new term for it, as if it's a new proprietary technology:
"Torque Biasing Center Drive - The proven Torque Biasing Center Drive is optimized for maximum front-to-rear power distribution. It's tuned to deliver jaw-dropping 4WD acceleration along with massive punch and instant response. Traxxas' exclusive cush drive tech absorbs driveline impacts to further improve driveline durability without maintenance or adjustment." Traxxas Marketing went to TOWN on that bit! ^
Maybe it is "proven" because it is really just a typical center diff? From what you said, it is not: "optimized for maximum front-to-rear power distribution". (more like 'optimizable') Instead it's mostly locked to give the illusion of "jaw-dropping 4WD accleration along with massive punch". Having no center diff has historically been acceptable on a monster truck, so I give a bit of credit to Traxxas for actually including it. That, plus the wide kit make it an option to actually handle well at high speeds.
The TSM is useful in drag racing, esp. on loose surfaces and also in controlling oversteer. TSM helps with straight acceleration in grass too. The main problem is that it doesn't recognize when we're trying to do anything but accelerate straight.
In an earlier post (I think in my other thread) you suggested checking the steering throw when I said my servo was burning hot. The steering throw turned out to be fine, but what I figured out is that with TSM on and turned to 50%, (which is quite a lot of correction) it's always moving the servo; making correction all the time. It actually fights my steering inputs sometimes. When I turned it off, I noticed the servo doesn't run hot any more.
Thanks for the shock setup tips.
09-03-2020, 08:00 AM
#25
Tech Regular
I wouldn't want a flat-handling monster truck. That's what truggies are for. I expect monster trucks to go barreling over small obstacles with no mercy or remorse, and the tradeoff for the necessary ground clearance to do that is squishy handling. That said, I did equip my two T-Maxxes with homemade front swaybars made from 3/32" piano wire, to keep them from traction-rolling every single time I slowed-down for a corner.
You're right about the Revo's cantilever shocks having more adjustments. They don't need to be laydown shocks to use cantilevers, but that does seem to be the most common design. As you say, cantilevers are the reason the Revo chassis can be a monster truck or an oversized truggy with only minimal changes, and no doubt that flexibility is why Traxxas decided to use the cantilever design in the first place -- one platform to rule them all.
I expect monster trucks to go barreling over small obstacles with no mercy or remorse, and the tradeoff for the necessary ground clearance to do that is squishy handling. That said, I did equip my two T-Maxxes with homemade front swaybars made from 3/32" piano wire, to keep them from traction-rolling every single time I slowed-down for a corner.You're right about the Revo's cantilever shocks having more adjustments. They don't need to be laydown shocks to use cantilevers, but that does seem to be the most common design. As you say, cantilevers are the reason the Revo chassis can be a monster truck or an oversized truggy with only minimal changes, and no doubt that flexibility is why Traxxas decided to use the cantilever design in the first place -- one platform to rule them all.
To me, a lot of the flat pan monster trucks aren’t monster trucks, just stadium trucks with monster truck tires, tbh.
Last edited by BJoe; 09-03-2020 at 08:15 AM.
09-04-2020, 01:10 AM
#26
My buddy just got a TRX4 sport kit and I must say it's super nice. It's way nicer than the SCX10 III and it's cheaper plus more capable out of the box. Never thought I would buy a Traxxas but after seeing his TRX4 I am going to get one as well. Seems like with the Maxx and TRX4, Traxxas has really stepped up their game.
09-04-2020, 07:42 AM
#27
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
My buddy just got a TRX4 sport kit and I must say it's super nice. It's way nicer than the SCX10 III and it's cheaper plus more capable out of the box. Never thought I would buy a Traxxas but after seeing his TRX4 I am going to get one as well. Seems like with the Maxx and TRX4, Traxxas has really stepped up their game.
- As a trail truck, it's a bit slow on 2S, but fast for a crawler. (talking about the full-on TRX4, not the Sport) I don't have any 3S packs small enough, but it appears to be fast enough when run on 3S.
- The battery tray has an inset for a smaller (but thicker) 3S pack. Get measurements for that before going 3S. For 2S, it will just accept standard hard case 5 Ah packs.
- Consider it a scale/trail truck that can also do some softcore crawling and you'll be well-satisfied. Traxxas marketed it correctly, I think. (though some of the obstacles they have it crawling over in their promo videos I'm sure resulted in some tip-overs that they edited out)
- If you get one with a nice body, you might want to also get a TRX4 Sport body, as to replace the scale body is $180.
- They don't all have the same chassis. The Defender is a bit longer than the rest of them.
- They don't all use the same light kit; the G500 light kit is not as well-developed as the Bronco kit, for example. (probably the Defender isn't either) It's not bundled as well. (my local LHS is giving "free" light kit with the G500, but the kit for the Bronco was $80 extra)
09-04-2020, 09:24 AM
#28
I had an SCX10 (1st gen) and it was nowhere near the quality of the TRX4. It cost a lot less too though, to be fair. No experience with the rev. 3, but I wanted something else after the first one. I got the '79 Bronco body and added the light kit, it looks LEGIT. A couple things to be aware of before you buy the TRX4:
- As a trail truck, it's a bit slow on 2S, but fast for a crawler. (talking about the full-on TRX4, not the Sport) I don't have any 3S packs small enough, but it appears to be fast enough when run on 3S.
- The battery tray has an inset for a smaller (but thicker) 3S pack. Get measurements for that before going 3S. For 2S, it will just accept standard hard case 5 Ah packs.
- Consider it a scale/trail truck that can also do some softcore crawling and you'll be well-satisfied. Traxxas marketed it correctly, I think. (though some of the obstacles they have it crawling over in their promo videos I'm sure resulted in some tip-overs that they edited out)
- If you get one with a nice body, you might want to also get a TRX4 Sport body, as to replace the scale body is $180.
- They don't all have the same chassis. The Defender is a bit longer than the rest of them.
- They don't all use the same light kit; the G500 light kit is not as well-developed as the Bronco kit, for example. (probably the Defender isn't either) It's not bundled as well. (my local LHS is giving "free" light kit with the G500, but the kit for the Bronco was $80 extra)
Looking at some aluminum beadloocks as well from boom racing. I am more interested in the crawl aspect vs a trail truck so don't really care about speed.
09-04-2020, 08:13 PM
#29
Tech Adept
Thread Starter
Speed Runs
On pavement, w/stock gearing, 3S 5400 50C, it gets pretty bad speed wobbles near full throttle.
On 4S 5200 50C, it gets them around half throttle.
I think what's happening is that the tires are starting to balloon up and it jacks up the steering. On one speed run down the street on 4S, I was at about half throttle; felt like I was going 25-30. I squeezed it the rest of the way and it power-wheelied up to the wheelie bar. Impressive.
Bottom line is that if you're someone who likes to stay in control, go with a bigger 3S pack. At full throttle, it is borderline out of control. If you're someone who wants to be ballistic, go 4S. To me, 4S isn't as satisfying, as I find myself driving around at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle all the time. There's really no way to put down 4S worth of power. Maybe with TSM turned up and belted tires on a straight?
I miss the 70/30 switch on the transmitter, which gives more resolution for forward throttle, and hence better control.
On 4S 5200 50C, it gets them around half throttle.
I think what's happening is that the tires are starting to balloon up and it jacks up the steering. On one speed run down the street on 4S, I was at about half throttle; felt like I was going 25-30. I squeezed it the rest of the way and it power-wheelied up to the wheelie bar. Impressive.
Bottom line is that if you're someone who likes to stay in control, go with a bigger 3S pack. At full throttle, it is borderline out of control. If you're someone who wants to be ballistic, go 4S. To me, 4S isn't as satisfying, as I find myself driving around at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle all the time. There's really no way to put down 4S worth of power. Maybe with TSM turned up and belted tires on a straight?
I miss the 70/30 switch on the transmitter, which gives more resolution for forward throttle, and hence better control.
09-05-2020, 11:32 PM
#30
There is a consolidation going on in RC, with Horizon buying up lots of companies, and IMVHO it's not good for hobbyists. Horizon just bought Proline, and the thread in the offroad section is "RIP Proline". Just because Hobbico went out of business, for whatever reasons, does not mean Horizon buying it is a good thing. At least in 8th scale non-racing stuff, I don't think Horizon buying Losi worked out all that well.. Look how far behind the curve they were with an electric MT. Years.. Way back when I bought a Spektrum radio, despite hearing lots of bad things. Range issues on the first tank at 30 meters. Sold.. The Spektrum radio they were forcing people to buy with Kratons was/is apparently dangerously bad..(too bad about Tactic, too..) I had two E-flite planes smash to smithereens within a year due to melted ESCs. Many more examples...
Also, your description of why Hobbico went bankrupt is too simplistic. I'm sure there were various reasons... One thing I never lose sight of, despite my addiction, is that there is pretty much nothing in life less important than RC. I.e. it's not a business I would ever go into...(I guess there are two good reasons for some people to do so though - passion - ala Losi, Arrma originally, etc.. And then pure capitalistic investor-driven profit-squeezing greed. Ala Horizon...)
As for 6S carnage, I am less worried about crashing from the speed - the fun is controlling it, not losing control. Though sure, there is a risk of that.. But no, the main concern is having the truck destroy itself from the inside out simply due to the power. Which of course it will do at a much higher rate than I was used to on 4S. And when a stupid little diff costs €65.... Assuming you can even find one on this continent...
Yep. https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR310882
Not too surprising. People are busy during the summer.
