Solid axle esc and motor thoughts
 

I am building a Terminator 2 chassis Clod axle truck. I need 2 esc and 2 motors. I have 2 80a turnigy esc with 2 3520 brushless motors with 13 tooth pinion.

I recieved these used and I cannot get the 2 esc to synchronize. Front will start then the rear will finally kick in, or sometimes I will hit reverse and only the rear axles will turn at all. The wires are reversed between the esc and motors. I bought the programmer and they are set the same and I have reset them a couple of times (pain to hold all those buttons and flip on switch at same time.....). So in my frustration and knowing these are entry level electronics I am considering buying new esc's and maybe a motor combo. I have a couple of thoughts, I am hoping some experienced drivers can chime in and help me.

Is it better to have a higher KV and run smaller pinions or lower KV with larger pinions? I am not happy with my current punch (using 2s). I have read drivers having 3200kv up to 5200kv in competition trucks. My current situation is also a bit handicapped with the esc's not in sync.

80a vs 120a esc. Will I notice much difference with the clod setup? These get halved running dual right?

Brushless motors are killing me. Some post KV, and some like Reedy list T. Makes it difficult to compare apples to apples. Is there an easier way?

If you want, you can just list the esc, motor and pinions you think work best. I am looking for something in the middle cost range.

Thank you in advance.

2 motor esc combos I am looking at today are
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=CSEC6401
And
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-ezrun-max10-sct-sensorless-brushless-esc-3660sl-motor-combo-4600kv-hwa38010202/p607218

Budki, getting the ESCs synced up can be a bit hard. It took me a while to get it all working. Your first link will be perfect - the Castle ESCs and the 4600kv are what many race Clod drivers are using. The two basic choices are either 4600kv or 5700kv.

You should stick with 13t pinions and just get the right KV based on what batteries you want to use. Here are my specs for a race clod:
-13t pinion (switching pinion sizes means you need a special adapter - not worth it)
-dual Castle ESCs (same ones you linked - using the Castle link programmer makes syncing them much easier)
-4600kv motors when I want to run 3s and sometimes even 4s (this is a bit extreme, obviously)
-5700kv for 2s and 3s (3s on 5700 seems about perfect)

Also note, I turn the Torque Control *way* down to keep my gearboxes alive. I think I'm at 3 (out of 10) and I can still pull wheelies. The power on tap with dual motors is pretty incredible.

budki. you can try a Y splitter on the rx thats what I use and many others I race clods with..I know many guys that run the HW brand either 120a or 80 a.with 4600kv.batteries vary ..stay with the 13t .or like said above youll need a adapter ..

Most serious competition clods are running 120a sensored hobbyking esc's. Motors are usually where people change it up with Reedy, Orion, Trinity, Trackstar, Reds, Etc. Motor turn depends on manufacturer. Some companies 8.5t is another companies 5.5t. Its kinda hit or miss. Stick below 8.5 and above 5 for solid race truck speed IMO.

There are two ways of going about setting the ESC's up. Either through radio mixing or through a y harness. Mixing is usually trickier depending on radio but cleaner for wiring, where as the y harness is easier but messier wiring wise. Done right the result is usually the same. Mixing has some other advantages but dont ever seem that necessary in my opinion.

Thank you everyone! Can be hard to get info online as it is a custom thing. I am usually zooming in on pictures or reading articles. Hoping to race this spring (semi local track is supposed to start racing solid axle again, Rochester ny).

your info is golden, ty again!