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Atomic RC AMZ MiniZ Brushless 4wd Competitor

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Atomic RC AMZ MiniZ Brushless 4wd Competitor

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Old 11-03-2016, 03:09 PM
  #136  
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:26 AM
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Not sure if there is another AMZ thread, couldn't find one, so bringing this one back to life. I ordered an AMZ kit, just to use on my personal indoor track. Got the kit w/o electronics as I'll be putting those in myself. The chassis was only $60, so couldn't pass on the price.
hope to get lots of valuable info from all the previous posts here.
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
Not sure if there is another AMZ thread, couldn't find one, so bringing this one back to life. I ordered an AMZ kit, just to use on my personal indoor track. Got the kit w/o electronics as I'll be putting those in myself. The chassis was only $60, so couldn't pass on the price.
hope to get lots of valuable info from all the previous posts here.
cool. Curious to read what you think. Iím hoping to stay with what Iíve got in MiniZ size till end of this year. Iím not against moving to brushless, just donít really want to spend $$ on it yet.
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:21 PM
  #139  
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I have an AMZ. RTR it was pretty bad, but that was mostly issues with the stock electronics, not the chassis.

I have stripped the chassis down, and purchased some hop ups for it. I added a bell crank steering linkage, and the metal gear servo, which is where I am currently. I need to find the right sized ball stud for the servo. I found deals for just about every hop up for the platform.

I think that the quality of the chassis is good, but there are some drawbacks. The stock driveshaft bends easily, and with that, gear mesh goes bad. Diffs are ok. Stock steering linkage has no Ackerman, which is why I used the hyper steering linkage set, but the servo horns supplied are incompatible with the metal gear servo, and the ball studs with the set are incompatible with the alloy horn. This project is on the backburner right now...

the stock servo is slow, and has poor centering, the RX is also sub par. The ESC attached to the RX in the one piece electronics package is the same ESC sold separately, and similar hardware to the GL ESC with different wiring. ESC is made by hobbywing, so a good quality unit, but sensorless.

If you know your way around micro RC, and can troubleshoot some of the issues, I think the chassis can be a good performer.

One issue with the AMZ is that the motor mount interferes with the side clip on mini-z bodies. Not a problem if you mount with body posts, otherwise the clip needs trimming.

If you have intentions of hopping the car up with all accessories (drivetrain, long arm, bulkheads), get the SZ. It has most of the upgrades by default and will save money in the long run. The parts will also be more easily available, since AMZ has been out of production for some time. If intentions are to run a spec touring class, this might be a good option, but it will take work for the AMZ to compete with the SZ or BZ.
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Old 10-04-2018, 04:10 PM
  #140  
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Thanks EMU,
Fortunately I purchased a chassis only set, and it says it comes w/ the "hyper steering linkage set" (so not sure if they've added to the later sets)?? In any case, yes, using my own electronics and such ...also I plan to run a lexan body so shouldn't have issue w/ motor hitting an autoscale/miniz body. I also do not plan to race this, I take the winters off from racing 1/10th scale and just want something to play with and work on over the winter. I have a few 1/24th Carismas to race indoors and keep my skills up ...yet looking for a project to keep me busy. Sounds like this may be it! -I will be sure to upgrade the things that you and others have said need upgrading, but also don't plan to race this competitively, so we'll see what is suitable for casual fun.
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Old 10-04-2018, 07:46 PM
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I think it will suit your needs well for the price.
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Old 10-09-2018, 09:46 AM
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Yeah, ...I really don't plan to race the MiniZ's -at least no time soon. Racing 1/10th keeps me busy from about April through October ...I was just out racing all day this past weekend, and will try to get 2 more races in before the end of this month. ...then building my AMZ and using it to practice during the raining season and to keep my skills up. ...I have ordered everything, including body and wheels and all electronics. The Futaba receiver and motor has arrived, just waiting for everything else. For some reason the actual kit looks like its been stuck at the major mail hub (about 90miles from my house) since 10/5. Hopefully it will come this week ...have no idea what is taking it so long.
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Old 10-09-2018, 10:44 AM
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At the port of entry for Atomic it can be hot or cold. I have had things show up in under a week and at other times it has taken nearly a month.
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:57 PM
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Car arrived last night, I checked it out this morning and could t resist starting on the build. I have 1 diff built, ...went together smoothly. One thing i dont care for is the silver carbon fiber chassis parts it came with. I prefer black carbon fiber and thought that is what it came with,...but no big deal.
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Old 10-11-2018, 09:21 PM
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It sounds like they are clearing stockof the SSG carbon chassis parts that they had cut. I wonder if there are any performance differences between the silver and black...
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:36 AM
  #146  
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If the material is the same or similar in performance to the T-plates we use I would think that the silver would be ever so slightly softer than the black.
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Old 10-12-2018, 04:54 AM
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That's what I was thinking, at the thickness of the chassis, and the scale, it would probably only be noticeable at the poles, lowest traction and highest traction. On most surfaces besides rcp it might work slightly better than the black. They released a v2 deck to gain more traction.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:22 PM
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interesting info about the silver vs black chassis.
Yeah, mine is all silver, it seems a tad bit flexible ...however I don't have a black version to compare it to.
Regardless, it will just be for practice so not too concerned.

for the diff's do you guys start w/ them slightly loose/medium/or tight? I made the front medium-tight whereas the back I made medium-loose. Going off my 1/10 knowledge.
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Old 10-12-2018, 01:51 PM
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With these diffs, it's important to break them in properly. Start loose, just tight enough not to slip, then work your way up in tension as they break in. Going too tight early can cause a notchy diff action which would either require new plates or needing to LAP the old plates.

I prefer a tighter rear diff than front, but if you ride the brakes hard, then you may prefer a tighter front diff. Neither diff should slip when accelerating or braking.
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Old 10-12-2018, 02:25 PM
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With these diffs, it's important to break them in properly. Start loose, just tight enough not to slip, then work your way up in tension as they break in. Going too tight early can cause a notchy diff action which would either require new plates or needing to LAP the old plates.

I prefer a tighter rear diff than front, but if you ride the brakes hard, then you may prefer a tighter front diff. Neither diff should slip when accelerating or braking.
Got it! thank YOU! I'll make sure to adjust them so I am starting w/ both loose (but not slipping).
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