Official Losi Micro SCT/Rally/Truggy Thread
09-07-2010, 01:17 AM
#61
I haven't driven the SCT, but when I was at the hobby shop buying the Rally I noticed the chassis is the same size. For some reason I thought the Rally chassis was just a shortened version of the SCT.
The turning radius is actually pretty darn good if you are on a high bite surface. However, on something very smooth it tends to push quite a bit.
Overall, the thing is a blast to drive. Cheap entertainment at home! A buddy and myself are building small scale rally course at each of our respective homes. Should be fun
Especially since we'll have different layouts to run on.
I did try the Rally car with the LiPO battery pack for my Micro Crawler. There was a noticable difference in punch and speed.
-melon
The turning radius is actually pretty darn good if you are on a high bite surface. However, on something very smooth it tends to push quite a bit.
Overall, the thing is a blast to drive. Cheap entertainment at home! A buddy and myself are building small scale rally course at each of our respective homes. Should be fun
Especially since we'll have different layouts to run on.I did try the Rally car with the LiPO battery pack for my Micro Crawler. There was a noticable difference in punch and speed.
-melon
Last edited by angrymelon; 09-07-2010 at 01:19 AM. Reason: I like nachos!
09-07-2010, 10:11 AM
#62
Hi Guys..
here's a tip. After getting my mini sct I noticed that there was a lot of things that were not working the best they could be on the truck.
So I decided to pop the hood on this little terror. and see how to make it smooth = fast.
The two important thing are the shocks and the drive train.
The shocks on the car are pretty good.. threaded bodies oil filled. One of mine was completely empty and after pulling them all apart I noticed that one had a three notch piston and the other three were two notches. Easy fix I notched with a hand file one of the pistons so I now have two with two and two with three.
Making sure all the shocks were the same length I filled them with 100 wt losi oil. in front and 80 wt in the back . (two notch in front three notch in back.) Note these actually have a cap bladder so make sure when you fill them they all have the same rebound rates..assemble and set aside.
The drive train: Wow here's something cool.. its just like a bigger car slipper gear diffs ball bearings mini dog bones.
The drive train drive after pulling the motor had lots of drag.. the car would not budge even if I put it on big incline. so I took it apart. and found that the diff covers were over tighten on assembly, the diff grease was too thick and the gear diffs were shimmed too tight.
Easy remedy.. pull the diffs clean out with motor spray and reassemble with a good silicon lube.. not too heavy I use 80wt shock oil. re assemble and test fit in the bottom half of the diff case.. shim accordingly so they spin freely and retain diff action (gear diffs).
With the diffs still out..make sure the drive shaft spins freely and the slipper gear is set so it slips a little with light touch. The reassmble with the diffs making sure it turns freely.
screw down the diff cases snugly not to over thighten alwasy test the drive train turns freely.
Bolt back all the stuff you took off and the car should run smoothly.. and considerably faster with the stock motor.
As far as radio gear we decided to keep the motor stock for our mini zclub. All we did was replace the board with the mr-03 miniz board and I can use the 2.4 ghz controller.\
we upped the batts to a 7.4 2s lipo 250mah. thats it its wicked fast and now handles like a bigger car.
Pluses. Motor runs cooler. using the 12t pinion te car ran 15 mins n tne lipo and the punch is phenomenal.
here's a tip. After getting my mini sct I noticed that there was a lot of things that were not working the best they could be on the truck.
So I decided to pop the hood on this little terror. and see how to make it smooth = fast.
The two important thing are the shocks and the drive train.
The shocks on the car are pretty good.. threaded bodies oil filled. One of mine was completely empty and after pulling them all apart I noticed that one had a three notch piston and the other three were two notches. Easy fix I notched with a hand file one of the pistons so I now have two with two and two with three.
Making sure all the shocks were the same length I filled them with 100 wt losi oil. in front and 80 wt in the back . (two notch in front three notch in back.) Note these actually have a cap bladder so make sure when you fill them they all have the same rebound rates..assemble and set aside.
The drive train: Wow here's something cool.. its just like a bigger car slipper gear diffs ball bearings mini dog bones.
The drive train drive after pulling the motor had lots of drag.. the car would not budge even if I put it on big incline. so I took it apart. and found that the diff covers were over tighten on assembly, the diff grease was too thick and the gear diffs were shimmed too tight.
Easy remedy.. pull the diffs clean out with motor spray and reassemble with a good silicon lube.. not too heavy I use 80wt shock oil. re assemble and test fit in the bottom half of the diff case.. shim accordingly so they spin freely and retain diff action (gear diffs).
With the diffs still out..make sure the drive shaft spins freely and the slipper gear is set so it slips a little with light touch. The reassmble with the diffs making sure it turns freely.
screw down the diff cases snugly not to over thighten alwasy test the drive train turns freely.
Bolt back all the stuff you took off and the car should run smoothly.. and considerably faster with the stock motor.
As far as radio gear we decided to keep the motor stock for our mini zclub. All we did was replace the board with the mr-03 miniz board and I can use the 2.4 ghz controller.\
we upped the batts to a 7.4 2s lipo 250mah. thats it its wicked fast and now handles like a bigger car.
Pluses. Motor runs cooler. using the 12t pinion te car ran 15 mins n tne lipo and the punch is phenomenal.
Last edited by BadBoyRC; 09-07-2010 at 10:22 AM.
09-07-2010, 04:22 PM
#63
Ill have to tear mine down and give it a once over. Just gotta get some shock oil. And as for the range issue, completely fixed by switching the radio out to one of the stock traxxas transmitters I had laying around. Guess they really skimped out on the stock radio since I couldnt get more than 20ft away before.
09-07-2010, 07:20 PM
#64
Looks like i'm busting out the ole rustler radio then. i may have you get me some of those hyperions and possibly a brushless system with another steering servo and a receiver before you come out. its definatly a good carpet racer. no regrets on the car, good buy!
09-08-2010, 01:14 AM
#66
Originally Posted by jdrake19
Very cool. If I had some smoother surfaces to drive on I'd definitely have a buddy for my SCT.
How is the turning radius on the Rally? Same parts as the SCT?
How is the turning radius on the Rally? Same parts as the SCT?
09-08-2010, 05:29 AM
#67
Originally Posted by BadBoyRC
Hi Guys..
here's a tip. After getting my mini sct I noticed that there was a lot of things that were not working the best they could be on the truck.
So I decided to pop the hood on this little terror. and see how to make it smooth = fast.
The two important thing are the shocks and the drive train.
The shocks on the car are pretty good.. threaded bodies oil filled. One of mine was completely empty and after pulling them all apart I noticed that one had a three notch piston and the other three were two notches. Easy fix I notched with a hand file one of the pistons so I now have two with two and two with three.
Making sure all the shocks were the same length I filled them with 100 wt losi oil. in front and 80 wt in the back . (two notch in front three notch in back.) Note these actually have a cap bladder so make sure when you fill them they all have the same rebound rates..assemble and set aside.
The drive train: Wow here's something cool.. its just like a bigger car slipper gear diffs ball bearings mini dog bones.
The drive train drive after pulling the motor had lots of drag.. the car would not budge even if I put it on big incline. so I took it apart. and found that the diff covers were over tighten on assembly, the diff grease was too thick and the gear diffs were shimmed too tight.
Easy remedy.. pull the diffs clean out with motor spray and reassemble with a good silicon lube.. not too heavy I use 80wt shock oil. re assemble and test fit in the bottom half of the diff case.. shim accordingly so they spin freely and retain diff action (gear diffs).
With the diffs still out..make sure the drive shaft spins freely and the slipper gear is set so it slips a little with light touch. The reassmble with the diffs making sure it turns freely.
screw down the diff cases snugly not to over thighten alwasy test the drive train turns freely.
Bolt back all the stuff you took off and the car should run smoothly.. and considerably faster with the stock motor.
As far as radio gear we decided to keep the motor stock for our mini zclub. All we did was replace the board with the mr-03 miniz board and I can use the 2.4 ghz controller.\
we upped the batts to a 7.4 2s lipo 250mah. thats it its wicked fast and now handles like a bigger car.
Pluses. Motor runs cooler. using the 12t pinion te car ran 15 mins n tne lipo and the punch is phenomenal.
here's a tip. After getting my mini sct I noticed that there was a lot of things that were not working the best they could be on the truck.
So I decided to pop the hood on this little terror. and see how to make it smooth = fast.
The two important thing are the shocks and the drive train.
The shocks on the car are pretty good.. threaded bodies oil filled. One of mine was completely empty and after pulling them all apart I noticed that one had a three notch piston and the other three were two notches. Easy fix I notched with a hand file one of the pistons so I now have two with two and two with three.
Making sure all the shocks were the same length I filled them with 100 wt losi oil. in front and 80 wt in the back . (two notch in front three notch in back.) Note these actually have a cap bladder so make sure when you fill them they all have the same rebound rates..assemble and set aside.
The drive train: Wow here's something cool.. its just like a bigger car slipper gear diffs ball bearings mini dog bones.
The drive train drive after pulling the motor had lots of drag.. the car would not budge even if I put it on big incline. so I took it apart. and found that the diff covers were over tighten on assembly, the diff grease was too thick and the gear diffs were shimmed too tight.
Easy remedy.. pull the diffs clean out with motor spray and reassemble with a good silicon lube.. not too heavy I use 80wt shock oil. re assemble and test fit in the bottom half of the diff case.. shim accordingly so they spin freely and retain diff action (gear diffs).
With the diffs still out..make sure the drive shaft spins freely and the slipper gear is set so it slips a little with light touch. The reassmble with the diffs making sure it turns freely.
screw down the diff cases snugly not to over thighten alwasy test the drive train turns freely.
Bolt back all the stuff you took off and the car should run smoothly.. and considerably faster with the stock motor.
As far as radio gear we decided to keep the motor stock for our mini zclub. All we did was replace the board with the mr-03 miniz board and I can use the 2.4 ghz controller.\
we upped the batts to a 7.4 2s lipo 250mah. thats it its wicked fast and now handles like a bigger car.
Pluses. Motor runs cooler. using the 12t pinion te car ran 15 mins n tne lipo and the punch is phenomenal.
09-08-2010, 07:25 PM
#68
Originally Posted by Ride1226
They are the exact same vehicle minus body, tires, and bumpers.
-melon
09-09-2010, 01:40 AM
#69
Tech Regular
Best mod ever!!!!!!!!!!!! Took the shocks apart and inserted a small piece of heat shrink tubing in front of the push rod. Then put the shock back together and VI'OLA , instant RCP truck. There's just a tiny bit of suspension so you don't get the constant roll over affect goin on. 1000% better. Doesn't do as well on the jumps but you can actually drive it now!!
When I reinstalled the shocks I screwed them into the outer holes on the shock tower and on the inside hole nearest the center of the truck on the lower A-arm. This allowed the shock to throw the least amount and the truck to sit level.
God I love me!!
" I want to get a taste of victory, see what it taste like" (Nacho Libre')
When I reinstalled the shocks I screwed them into the outer holes on the shock tower and on the inside hole nearest the center of the truck on the lower A-arm. This allowed the shock to throw the least amount and the truck to sit level.
God I love me!!
" I want to get a taste of victory, see what it taste like" (Nacho Libre')
09-09-2010, 06:26 PM
#70
Tech Regular
Went to the track today to test out my evil doings last night and just as I thought the truck handled a hell of a lot better. No more traction rolls on RCP. I think I need to get a 27mHz module for my radio so I can turn the sterring speed down. That would help with the over steering problem. The chassis roll can't react fast enough to compensate for the steering speed. Having minor problems with over steer.
To add, steering response is much more crisp.
Anyway, please try this mod and let me know what you think.
To add, steering response is much more crisp.
Anyway, please try this mod and let me know what you think.
09-13-2010, 06:11 PM
#73
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
These are so cute.
My rally lasted one battery pack before i decided to build a custom chassis to squeeze some more motor into it (and a bigger battery pack).
I am waiting on some parts and another kit but i am loving this size.
I just hope some after market guys get involved and give up some choices.
My rally lasted one battery pack before i decided to build a custom chassis to squeeze some more motor into it (and a bigger battery pack).
I am waiting on some parts and another kit but i am loving this size.
I just hope some after market guys get involved and give up some choices.
09-14-2010, 04:14 PM
#74
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by airwoods
Does it come with proper shimms to make it correct or would i just need to remove whats in there to make it smooth like you've done.
If you are good with a lathe, you can cut the bearing cups deeper. You can also cut the side gears thinner.
For now, I just sanded the bearings down being careful just to sand the side that is not holding the side gears, and wiping them down carefully afterward. Would have been even better to clean them in solvent. They run ok smooth.
They are the same size as mini-z axel bearings. Next time, I will cut the bearing on a lathe or maybe the cups. Not sure if there is a better solution than this.
09-14-2010, 05:25 PM
#75
Tech Regular
I think the better solution is to save yourself all the trouble and wait for the aluminum stuff to come out.
