Stock for stock, the 18R is more efficient with its shaft drive. It's taken a bit of work to get my drivetrain as smooth and loose as it is now (I've burned up a couple brushed motors getting there!). The fastest guy in our class still runs an 18R, but all of us SC18 guys have gotten a lot faster in the past few months. All of us are running brushless.

IMO, on our relatively large track layouts (great for 1/10th scale touring and nitro, tight for 1/8 nitro), the longer wheelbase of the LM18 and SC18 have an advantage over the 18R handling-wise. Either one is super twitchy without a few suspension changes, but all of us are having a blast. Perhaps on a tighter course, the shorter wheelbase might be an advantage.

BTW, with the 'vette body, the scale is technically 1/16 now, which is no big deal. Our mini class basically allows 1/18 up to 1/14 scale cars (still a few Recoil owners who come out every now and again).

Rodarbal, thank you for your answer, by the way, xray 1/18 apart, what is the 1/18 scale car more popular for club race?

Regards
José

In our club we race on a temporary course on an asphalt parking lot. Earlier this year, the 18R was still the preferred 1/18 scale car. But after a couple of us brought our SC18s out, it has become the most popular vehicle (the hobby shop that sponsors the race keeps them in stock, too). These cars are great for our outdoor venue.

For racing on carpet, I would consider a 1/18 scale pan car. The two competitors in this class are the BRP SC18v2M and Robitronic Scalpel. However, their T-plate rear suspensions limit your battery options.

We race a similar temp track p-lot, the newer versions with the FT chassis are far superior. Sc18 and late model are the preferred 18. The LM is basically a new rc18r2. remove the rear bumper and put a touring body on it...

Has anyone at your track ever run the Exotek chassis' 18R's?? They make the 18 chassis handle completely different. I have on of the R18, R18II, and even have a Tek18 that for a short time was an R (it is now back to a T) and they all are a huge improvement over the stock 18 chassis.

YES! There are a couple who run Exotek 18Rs and they're still some of the fastest guys in the club. No one is running the FT kit yet, but I have a feeling that someone is going to get one for Christmas this year. :lol:

They really do handle well. I had one of mine setup with a Tekin B1 ESC, stock motor geared up, and a 2 cell Lipo and it was faster than most brushless minis. Granted the motors wont last too long doing that, but at $9 each its not really going to break the bank.

Hey with all the problems with the belt drive should i be steering clear of the sc18 I just wanted to have a mini for indoors and love the sc8e would like to have a mini version of it, im not racing it and would buy the rtr brushless for like 180-200 i just want one i can drift around in the house.. This seems to be the only thread with guys who really drive them so am I wasting my money? love the SC18 body thats why its my pick im fairly new to RC so any advice is great thanks!

I've only had mine a week or so on the track and I have no issues with the belt system, although it does seem a bit tight.

Which leads me to a follow up question:

I seen some dozen or so pages back, someone listed the mods they have done...

What all needs/should be done to free up the drive train?
Where is a view of this so called Rosario hole (I have a good idea of what it is based on the description of what its for). Just don't want to be way off...

Reese

I have no idea of this hole you are talking about...as long as you have the revised diff case it should be free enough. I roll the car with the battery unplugged and it should roll more than two feet with a good push.

I'm about to order my first SC18.
Could someone tell me how large lipo-pack that fits in this car? Lenght, widht, height.

Was looking at those Hobbyking 2200mAh packs but are they too long? Do those packs require mods to the battey-compartment?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...po%5FPack.html

Those will be too long.

Get these from HobbyKing USA warehouse:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=16661

These fit, and are what I am using. Just raise the battery strap a few turns on both ends, and put the battery in with the wires to the front/inside of vehicle. (Upside down in my case depending on which side they put the stickers on the pack)

sc18
 

got one in a trade took out the ezrun setup an dumped in my mamba micro pro with 8000kv motor a dtx 1600 pack for now an the steerin servo is now a tower hobbies mg90 fits great an no probs with it

The boyfriend converted his sc18 for road use and he's using a traxxas 2200 lipo. fits perfect :)

also he recently changed to a savox SH0257MG servo and loves it.

between the belt or under?!
 

did a search but nothing cam up. also googled, nothing really... What the heck is going on?! Who designed this shit?! I cannot believe how hard it is to install the motor properly?! The manual is not clear on that either?! Can someone please tell me how to install the motor?! I mean, is the pinion supposed to go between the belt or under?! How stupid?! (maybe its me, ha ha)

thanks,
G

p.s. SC18 with mongoose 380 micro pro