If anyone needs Exotek SC18 carbon fiber shock towers, I have a front/rear pair for sale here: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...odds-ends.html

when i charge my battery and put it right in my car it acts weird.it goes half speed.then when i put in battery that has been sitting it works fine.then i put charged battery back in and same problem half speed.when i run that battery down a little it works fine.i have had this issue on a couple of these now.anybody else every have this problem?another problem we are having is sometimes truck will just stop.nothing will work but light is on on speed control and it seems to make a clicking noise.turn it off and back on and it is fine.

Priced dropped to $100.00 shipped.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-like-new.html

SC18 or RC18T2 for bashing?
 

I am thnking of getting a mini to bash at a skate park...I am usually an AE guy so I am looking at a RC18T2 or SC18.

Will these little guys stand up to some rough bashing? I was leaning toward an Mini E-Revo till I saw these little guys.

The SC18 looks better protected by the body and bumpers...but I am worried about ride height....I was trying to read how some guys "lifted" the SC18 with longer shocks.

Would it be easier to lift a SC18 (new shocks, links etc)...or try to protect the RC18T2 with bumpers?

Or do you think the Mini Revo would be tougher?

Thanks

Sometimes the voltage is too high for the ESC. Either let the pack sit for awhile or I just drive it at slow speed for a minute or 2 then turn it off and back on and it's fine.

yea it seems that way but the weird thing is we put a 3 cell lipo in it and it worked fine.does not make sense to me.is there any other explanation?

well i talked to team associated and they told me to take it out of lipo mode and put it in nimh mode.they have to ship it in lipo mode for liability reasons.this seemed to fix the problem.

hi all.
i have a sc18 that ive put in a brushless system in it.

my issue is its got a slight ticking sound when the motor is in and running.
ive pulled the the motor out, no noise, pulled the rear diff out, no rocks or anything. The only thing i can see it the belt is rubbing on the pinion. but i cant work out why that would cause a ticking sound.

Rc18b esc issue
 

Hey guys I bought a used rc18b with a mamba micro system in it I ran it when I got it no problems I just put in my own receiver and got the steering going the esc is green when I hit the throttle the light turns red back to neutral it goes to green. Do I have to reset something?

If the pinion setscrew sticks out of the pinion a little it could certainly make some funny noises as it rubs the belt. Be sure to mount the motor as low as possible to avoid belt/pinion rubbing. The motor mount is designed with 4 holes, and you are supposed to use either two diagonal across from each other. If you slightly elongate or enlarge one of the lower holes you can mount the motor across these two instead, giving you plenty of clearance around the belt and also a slightly lower center of gravity for better handling. Motors larger than 24mm in diameter require a little more clearance of the chassis around the mount to fit in the lowest position.

Other things to check for would be a very tiny rock or grain of sand in any of the gears or pulleys, pinion/spur gear mesh, and if you still have dogbones make sure you have all of the springs in the outdrives. Setting the gear mesh can be a real pain sometimes, so I cut a hole in the chassis opposite the pinion gear and covered it with clear lexan to keep debris out. This allows me to see the pinion/spur contact and know I have it set right in an instant.

You will need to calibrate the ESC to your radio.
If you have a Futaba radio you will need to reverse the throttle direction before calibration for best results.
For any radio with adjustable endpoints you will want to ensure throttle is maxed in both directions before calibration.
Make sure all throttle trim settings are zeroed before calibration.
Transmitter On,
Charged battery connected,
Hold full throttle on the transmitter and turn the ESC switch On.
After a few moments you should hear tones letting you know forward throttle endpoint has been set,
Move to full reverse throttle and hold,
You should hear another round of tones for reverse calibration,
Release trigger to neutral,
More tones for neutral,
A few seconds later it should give double tones indicating armed and ready.
You can download a manual from Castle's website if you need better/more detailed instructions.

thanks burnineyes.
ill elongate those holes and get the pinion away from the belt.

appreciate your help!

advice was 100% spot on. Thanks.

hey i have 2 of these. one is stock and the other is modifyed with carbon chassis ball difs, carbon shock towers a brushless set up AND i made a idler pully that keeps the belt far away from the motor pinion.

dont seem to be using them. anyone interested let me know. gonna go up for sale in a few days.

pick of the pully i made

Is there a parts # for the new case? My belt is pretty tight too.

Does anyone have the email address to Team associated?