tunnelhead

iTrader: (12)

It has been awhile since I have last raced this car. I am starting to go threw it and hopefully start to race it again. I was lucky enough to have a lhs that had 25' x 60' indoor carpet track. They are no longer in business. I thought I would post a few pics to show you guys. It is a EITS RC XGT Daytona 150mm car. Mazda body. The class we ran in required us to run 6 cells, Orion Elite micro modified motor, rubber tires. Used a Novak Spy esc, and a HiCrap hs-81mg servo. Plus I have the Spektrum micor rx. I aslo installed the Xray ball diffs, 6 degree arms in the front and the 2.5 degree toe in the rear. I also used the Atomic lowering springs. Blue front and orange rear. I think I might have them reversed. been awhile. I hope you enjoy the pic. I had a great time racing this and look forawrd to racing it again soon. I am currently looking to convert it to brushless and lipo. Any thoughts on motor/esc combo and also looking to upgrade the steering servo to a Airtronics or other high end servo. Also do you think it is worth the money to also convert it to the wheel and tire system of the new Xray 18Pro? Any performance gain?

all4fun

tunnelhead Good pics...but IMO I would start out with the M18Pro. Weather it is used or new. Really good car to start off with. First off, the reason why I would start off w/the M18Pro is that it has pretty much all the "goodies" in the kit you would need anyway. The other reason is because that's all I run LOL.The composite ball diffs, front and rear. Real good Alum motor mount. Hex drive axles for the Pro hex wheels (no more wheels sliding off during an important main!). I would also recommend the Atomic adjustable collar shocks along with there lowering springs (orange frt, firm/yellow rr, medium). Blue IMO is too soft causing too much chassis roll. Front foams medium, rear foams soft. Get the 2mm wider front hex axles (plastic) so your front track width is 108mm like it is in the rear. Note: The rear wheels have a 2mm wider offset then the fronts are. This will give you better corner speed. Also apply a thin coating of CA on the front foam tire side walls. Get the 6deg castor hard front upper arms. 1/2deg toe out on front wheels, 2.5deg toe in rears. Adjust the shocks so you have around 2.5mm ground clearance. Note: you may need to true down the foams to achieve this. If you are going to run brushless, I would recommend the Castle Creations Mamba pro speedo/8000k motor combo along with there data-link to fine tune it. If you will be racing on 25ftx60ft ozite surface, I would start off with a 10t pinion with the 42t spur. If you are using tire compound, I would use paragon. Apply inside 1/4 on front foams and full rears. The body of choice is definately the protofoam Dodge Stratas 3.0. Good luck. If you want, keep me posted (no pun intended) with your results and maybe we can improve the car even better. I have a lot of other options to work with if needed.

tunnelhead

iTrader: (12)

All4fun , I built this car back in 2005. I bought the EITS chassis before it came out. So it was one of the first to be sold. So there was no Pro kit to get, just the standard xray m18

tunnelhead

iTrader: (12)

Or penguin chassis. It looked way better then those two. I wonder how much difference between the R3 and Pro compaired to mine.

PierreV

iTrader: (3)

Ahhhhh The Daytona from EITSRC. Still have one ( not on a car though...). The swivel upper deck was a little problematic when I wanted to tighten it up...it would bind. However it worked well for some time. ... and you also have the stand! Got me one too! Still use it all the time!

I should put it back together...

That chassis was pretty narrow to start off with so going to lipos would be fine. The slots were along the chassis and not perpendicular which was at the time sub-par for cells in parallel and not in shotgun. Maybe getting some balldiffs would be the easiest and cheapest quick change - required for lipo/bl setup. Those balldiffs are about 20$ each ... not too bad. Plastic CVDs work just fine with normal usage - even with BL setups.

Further add-ons then it depends. Getting a pro is certainly a cheap way of getting maximum bang for the buck. You get to refresh everything including bearings...

New wheel system is not necessarily better. I haven't weighed the difference to see whether it would make it much lighter for stock classes for less rotational mass where weight is of concern.

I guess depends on how much you intend on using it...

all4fun

I actually had a penguin chassis when they first came out after starting out with the original M18 and it was sort of OK. But then I sold it to someone and got the Exotek R3 and I noticed a huge difference. When Xray came out with there M18Pro, of course I had to try it out while still keeping my R3. To be honest with you, both the R3 and the M18Pro were pretty darn close as far as handeling and performance. So, I would have to say that either the M18Pro or the R3 are really the best "true" 1/18th Touring cars out there.