SINISTER_ 1/24 RACE CHASSIS
#16
Yes, that's right!
I think Magnus managed to solder the bat. wires to the motor and motor wires to the batteries.
Not good, not good at all! - heavy smoke
We haven't seen any Sinisters in action yet - we are looking forward to see what it can accomplish.
I think Magnus managed to solder the bat. wires to the motor and motor wires to the batteries.
Not good, not good at all! - heavy smoke
We haven't seen any Sinisters in action yet - we are looking forward to see what it can accomplish.
Last edited by InZane; 12-07-2007 at 03:23 AM.
#17
wingbeat;
Your package seems nice. I suggest you to buy a "mounting set for Hurda" especially if you opt for a Hurda body. That bumper stops almost all damage to wheels and ofcourse to servo.
DSM on deepree_z's car is "DSM Micro" all plastic cage and connectors are removed and soldered. If you have tight are soldering skills this is definately the best option.
inzane;
We think Sinister already proved itself in PN Worlds at least for a start against highly modded Mini-Z. What we dream of is a real open race which we can race all open racers head to head. ie Sinister, Pro27, ALS etc.
Your package seems nice. I suggest you to buy a "mounting set for Hurda" especially if you opt for a Hurda body. That bumper stops almost all damage to wheels and ofcourse to servo.
DSM on deepree_z's car is "DSM Micro" all plastic cage and connectors are removed and soldered. If you have tight are soldering skills this is definately the best option.
inzane;
We think Sinister already proved itself in PN Worlds at least for a start against highly modded Mini-Z. What we dream of is a real open race which we can race all open racers head to head. ie Sinister, Pro27, ALS etc.
#18
Tech Rookie
Thanks for all the info and tips guys.
When I get 'er built in about a week or two, I'll post some pics.
cheers
When I get 'er built in about a week or two, I'll post some pics.
cheers
#19
Tech Adept
Hi wingbeat,
I'm using +3 offset on the rear end and adjust the driving attitude with front end. I don't know that your car will be equipped with TGR's new front knucles, but if yes then you can adjust front offset without changing your wheels. So you can experiment different offsets easly.
I'm using +3 offset on the rear end and adjust the driving attitude with front end. I don't know that your car will be equipped with TGR's new front knucles, but if yes then you can adjust front offset without changing your wheels. So you can experiment different offsets easly.
#20
#21
Tech Adept
Unfortunately I don't have digital machine to take good fotos, I hope you like these. My car have some prototype parts which are not available yet. The rear friction disc is one of them.
#22
Tech Rookie
Thanks for pics- how do you have your front end set-p? Doesn't look standard to Sinister. Looks like two ball links on one connection to servo.
#23
Tech Adept
Yes, these are two ball ends connected to servo horn on one point. These parts are prototype too, I hope they will be available soon.
#24
Tech Adept
By the way, note that all the electronics, including the transponder is installed on this car. It is on race ready state.
#25
Tech Rookie
Just received my Sinister.
Nice to find it waiting for me after shoveling my drive and sidewalks 3 times today! Ouch.
Looks great. Tight. Precise. Clean. Light.
Quick question. Are you guys charging/discharging your batteries in pack form? And are you taking the chassis apart each time you change packs? Or is there a way to fanagle the packs into place with the chassis intact?
thanks for the help with my newbie questions.
I hope to get to setting up this weekend. Found a micro Spektrum for it, most gear I have now, except my Tx. I should have that soon.
Nice to find it waiting for me after shoveling my drive and sidewalks 3 times today! Ouch.
Looks great. Tight. Precise. Clean. Light.
Quick question. Are you guys charging/discharging your batteries in pack form? And are you taking the chassis apart each time you change packs? Or is there a way to fanagle the packs into place with the chassis intact?
thanks for the help with my newbie questions.
I hope to get to setting up this weekend. Found a micro Spektrum for it, most gear I have now, except my Tx. I should have that soon.
#27
Tech Rookie
Thanks Cristian.
Sent you a note to Atomic Mods as well, but I'm curious as to how people are charging and discharging their packs. Do you charge discharge as a pack, or ? Maybe someone has devised a battery holder or solution for handling the cells individually? Certainly you can't be de-soldering and re-soldering every time... can you??
Sent you a note to Atomic Mods as well, but I'm curious as to how people are charging and discharging their packs. Do you charge discharge as a pack, or ? Maybe someone has devised a battery holder or solution for handling the cells individually? Certainly you can't be de-soldering and re-soldering every time... can you??
#28
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
Discharging is not a big issue with this scale. Batteries are so cheap and the cars so powerful, that it actully unnecessary to worry about discharging and 10th scale battery maintenance. The sdge is negligible. In modified, I many times run old battery packs so that I don't have to worry about having too much power. Runtime is not an issue and if you need a faster car, you don't need to worry about battery voltages, becuase I know there are enough motors readily available that are already too fast for 1:28 scale cars to handle with the crapiest of batteries.
In the case your batteries go bad, just throw them away. 8.00 for an intellect pack is dirt cheap.
In the case your batteries go bad, just throw them away. 8.00 for an intellect pack is dirt cheap.
#29
Tech Regular
Hi, what are the specs of the cars you folks are running? Length axel to axel, width of front and rear end outside edge to edge, weight? How about actual scale 1/24 or 1/27-1/28? I have an old Dynamite car I'm working on and I want to see how close I can get. Thanks, Don