R/C 18B
#31
I mount the shocks upside down for a few reasons: It stops them leaking, it protects the shocks from bent shock shafts in most crashes and it lowers the centre of gravity a tiny bit.
I have read many arguments for and against upside down shocks but from my experience there is no noticeable difference in performance. My shocks both have limiters in to lower the car a little.
Don't be tempted by receiver packs - they only discharge at 3C which is not nearly enough for brushless motors. You need in the region of 20C.
I have read many arguments for and against upside down shocks but from my experience there is no noticeable difference in performance. My shocks both have limiters in to lower the car a little.
Don't be tempted by receiver packs - they only discharge at 3C which is not nearly enough for brushless motors. You need in the region of 20C.
#34
#35
#36
Yes, these are the balance leads used to charge and balance the packs. I've made them out of cutting up 3 leads and soldering the whole lot together.
The little green boards are nothing special, they just make the connection to the connectors a bit stronger. I've actually got another lead that is the same where I soldered the wires directly to the connectors and they keep coming off so I've used this method.
Note: there are 2 Y-connectors on my ESC (one for positive and one for negative) to connect the battery packs in parallel as soon as they are fitted to the car.
The little green boards are nothing special, they just make the connection to the connectors a bit stronger. I've actually got another lead that is the same where I soldered the wires directly to the connectors and they keep coming off so I've used this method.
Note: there are 2 Y-connectors on my ESC (one for positive and one for negative) to connect the battery packs in parallel as soon as they are fitted to the car.
#38
Thanks Frogger, but in the Tek18 showd in this forum you only have 1 pack. How much runtime do you have what motor are you running in this one?
#39
I have 2 x Exotek RC18B's and in my main car I use 2 packs. The one in this thread is experimental to try and see if I can mount it all low, use 1 battery and still get good punch from the battery.
At this moment in time I am NOT getting race performance out of the single Yeah Racing battery and so I am still in search of a good 25C battery in the region of 850-1000mah that will fit.
The car was actually very driveable and I was getting very consistent lap times with it but they were about .5 - 1 second slower than my faster car.
I have some Himodel 540 20C cont/28C burst packs on order and I plan on using them in saddle config so will probably move the ESC back to the top deck.
At this moment in time I am NOT getting race performance out of the single Yeah Racing battery and so I am still in search of a good 25C battery in the region of 850-1000mah that will fit.
The car was actually very driveable and I was getting very consistent lap times with it but they were about .5 - 1 second slower than my faster car.
I have some Himodel 540 20C cont/28C burst packs on order and I plan on using them in saddle config so will probably move the ESC back to the top deck.
#40
Tech Champion
iTrader: (48)
http://www.nitrohouse.com/images/Losi/losb9820.jpg This is the pack that I use and it drops right in.
#42
I want to connect 2 YeahRacing batteries parallell to extend the mah from 900 to 1800mah. I know I can solder both red and black leads together but there is also a balance plug on the batts. I like cut them off and lengthen the wires and then resolder them like the normal wires in parallell. Then I like to resolder the balanceconnector to the wires. When I charge the batts the charger will charge and balance them on the same time. IS this possible? I use them on my TEK18 conversion.
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