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Old 03-09-2018, 04:28 AM
  #1681  
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Originally Posted by EMU
Atomic used to make hop up parts for mini-z. They have now moved on to produce their own cars instead. GL-racing is a designer from atomic that split and created his own brand and car. I was a factory driver for Atomic for some time, before they released their own car. After atomic, I raced for reflex racing, which also pulled out of the mini-z market to move up scale.

Jomurema is an Austrian company that had a line of upgrades for mini-z as well. It comes with a 1S battery,

The Atomic and GL cars are basically miniature touring cars. Although GL just released a ball link 2wd chassis, which in my opinion is more carpet oriented than rcp oriented. These are all Lipo only designs, based on 2S and brushless. Like anything 2S in this scale, they have more power than really needed for good close racing.

Edit: my post was written yesterday and didn't post when I submitted it.

Thanks. I started looking into those last night. Couple Atomic kits look interesting. Maybe next winter.
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Old 03-09-2018, 04:30 AM
  #1682  
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Originally Posted by EMU
Atomic used to make hop up parts for mini-z. They have now moved on to produce their own cars instead. GL-racing is a designer from atomic that split and created his own brand and car. I was a factory driver for Atomic for some time, before they released their own car. After atomic, I raced for reflex racing, which also pulled out of the mini-z market to move up scale.

Jomurema is an Austrian company that had a line of upgrades for mini-z as well. It comes with a 1S battery,

The Atomic and GL cars are basically miniature touring cars. Although GL just released a ball link 2wd chassis, which in my opinion is more carpet oriented than rcp oriented. These are all Lipo only designs, based on 2S and brushless. Like anything 2S in this scale, they have more power than really needed for good close racing.

Edit: my post was written yesterday and didn't post when I submitted it.

Thanks. I started looking into those last night. Couple Atomic kits look interesting. As does the GL kit. Don’t know if I could deal with that many tiny pieces. But maybe next winter. It would be overkill for a small basement track.
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Old 03-09-2018, 05:31 AM
  #1683  
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Originally Posted by mleemor60
EMU, don't forget about the PN king pins with the delrin ends to reduce unsprung weight.
Good point. I never had the PN model, but used the reflex model with coil under spring. The advantage of the PN version was the circlips retaining the light kingpin in position.

Originally Posted by Billy Kelly
Thanks. I started looking into those last night. Couple Atomic kits look interesting. As does the GL kit. Don’t know if I could deal with that many tiny pieces. But maybe next winter. It would be overkill for a small basement track.
It would be overkill even on a medium size track as well. This is the dilemma the scale is at right now. Many to guns pushing 2S at the competitive level, which are simply not usable on anything but regional sized layouts or larger with high flow.

I want to do some testing with 1S and see if its worth anything... but need a track for testing, which I currently don't have near me.
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:00 AM
  #1684  
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For small to medium track the best racing is with stock brushed motor or 5000 kv brushless with aaa.

Emu you could try a 3000kv with 2s on smaller track. I have not done it but it might work out.

I get a lot of questions from non racers about how fast my little car can go. They really don't understand that faster cars doesn't mean better racing. We get some of the closest and most fun racing from Tamiya mini with silver can motors.

We run our mini z with they kyosho blue eco motor on a large rcp track an the racing is pretty darn good.

Originally Posted by EMU
Good point. I never had the PN model, but used the reflex model with coil under spring. The advantage of the PN version was the circlips retaining the light kingpin in position.


It would be overkill even on a medium size track as well. This is the dilemma the scale is at right now. Many to guns pushing 2S at the competitive level, which are simply not usable on anything but regional sized layouts or larger with high flow.

I want to do some testing with 1S and see if its worth anything... but need a track for testing, which I currently don't have near me.
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:19 AM
  #1685  
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Originally Posted by v_squared
For small to medium track the best racing is with stock brushed motor or 5000 kv brushless with aaa.

Emu you could try a 3000kv with 2s on smaller track. I have not done it but it might work out.

I get a lot of questions from non racers about how fast my little car can go. They really don't understand that faster cars doesn't mean better racing. We get some of the closest and most fun racing from Tamiya mini with silver can motors.

We run our mini z with they kyosho blue eco motor on a large rcp track an the racing is pretty darn good.
My favorite brushed motor on AAA was the Atomic Stock 48t with the yellow label. Perfect for many track layouts big and small.

I am ramping up for a big race coming up on March 24th in DC. Going to setup a Lipo/brushless car for the modified class, probably with a 3500kv motor (but might just use a 5000kv that I have since I'm pinching pennies right now).

2S Lipo is too much for any brushed motor. Arcing and heat destroys the motors in one race day, so brushless is a must on 2S.

I mostly want to try 1S to open the ability to continue to use brushed motors and to have the ability to scale speed to more motor options. Good stock speed racing is my favorite style of racing, where close battles are all over the track. Once speed comes up, that starts to disappear as did the majority of racers in the class.
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Old 03-09-2018, 07:26 AM
  #1686  
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Originally Posted by EMU
Good point. I never had the PN model, but used the reflex model with coil under spring. The advantage of the PN version was the circlips retaining the light kingpin in position.


It would be overkill even on a medium size track as well. This is the dilemma the scale is at right now. Many to guns pushing 2S at the competitive level, which are simply not usable on anything but regional sized layouts or larger with high flow.

I want to do some testing with 1S and see if its worth anything... but need a track for testing, which I currently don't have near me.
I’d like to try the other kits just for the improved driving. Even like brushed now days. I’d like 2s, just make transponder use easier.
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Old 03-09-2018, 12:32 PM
  #1687  
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Originally Posted by EMU
There are advantages and disadvantages to flipping and cutting the kingpin.

Advantage is that the knuckle no longer slides I the kingpin, reduces wear and binding of the knuckle as suspension loads. It also reduces slop especially due to wear.

The disadvantage is increased unsprung weight, and altered spring rate to the wheel. There is also less ability to dampen the front end.

The reversed kingpin overall is a large improvement, especially in box stock class where the stock spring is a little heavier than wanted.

The majority of my mr03 use stock reverse kingpin setups with reflex upper towers to adjust camber with stock knuckles. Cheap and effective.
Thanks for the info. I ordered some stainless kingpins with the hope that they would be smoother but I might try the cut and flip on my son's car since the front suspension is horrible on it.
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Old 03-16-2018, 07:31 AM
  #1688  
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Update
Hobby Town Hickory NC Fri. 9 2018 race night.

We had a good evening of racing and took some pictures.
There was some fast guys there.
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Mini-Z Series-1a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-2a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-4a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-5a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-6a.jpg  

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Old 03-16-2018, 07:32 AM
  #1689  
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More pics
Attached Thumbnails Kyosho Mini-Z Series-7a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-8a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-9a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-10a.jpg   Kyosho Mini-Z Series-11a.jpg  

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Old 03-16-2018, 11:08 AM
  #1690  
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Those are some nice mini z Tim3.
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Old 04-04-2018, 12:21 PM
  #1691  
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How critical are those small capacitors on the brushed motors? The reason I ask is that I put the MM2 pod on my son's MR-03 and I had to redo the wiring due to it being a tight fit. I put the large cap back on but left the two small ones off.
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Old 04-04-2018, 01:44 PM
  #1692  
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek
How critical are those small capacitors on the brushed motors? The reason I ask is that I put the MM2 pod on my son's MR-03 and I had to redo the wiring due to it being a tight fit. I put the large cap back on but left the two small ones off.
I often remove the caps on my asf cars.

The big square one on the motor is essentially a fuse. I always remove it, since it only reduces performance.

I removed all caps on my motor installed in an MM2 mount.

My general rule of thumb, if the motor comes with caps, and there is space for them, I leave them on. If the caps interfere with the wiring or suspension, I remove them.

I don't know if the sports are effected by the lack of caps, but I haven't noticed any ill effect with an asf car.
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Old 04-04-2018, 03:07 PM
  #1693  
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Thanks EMU. I think the small ones are there to reduce electrical interference with the radio. I guess we'll see if it impacts that tonight.
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Old 04-04-2018, 03:19 PM
  #1694  
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek
Thanks EMU. I think the small ones are there to reduce electrical interference with the radio. I guess we'll see if it impacts that tonight.
Yes, they were a necessity in the AM days. I found 3 worked best to reduce glitching.

Some noisy modified motors on asf helps to have the caps. But for the most part, I have not noticed a difference in the majority of motors.

I have no experience with any of the sports models, so I cannot comment on whether the lack of caps will negatively effect the experience.
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Old 04-06-2018, 08:35 PM
  #1695  
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Anyone know what the difference is between PN's KS and KS-M compounds? I see its for RCP tracks, but can't find a lot of info on them.
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