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Kyosho Mini-Z Series

Old 06-03-2024, 09:48 AM
  #7861  
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Originally Posted by protanope
Pointing out logical inconsistencies is extremely important to having honest discussions. Pretending they don't exist is akin to sticking you head in the sand like an ostrich.
It's not logical inconsistencies; its a matter of no RC car is perfect; they each shine in their own light. The MR04 is super stable, steering is awesome and has a much better "feel" than the MR03. With the newly available knuckle replacements, the only issue now are the Kyosho motors. Those can be replaced if desired. I've found that a lot of serious racers out there also replace the MR03 motors with aftermarket brands, so not really any difference compared to the MR04 there in the end. I have two MR04's and accept them for what they are and am happy with them. I have them both running 90mm wheelbases which I think suite there power deficiencies well for me. As I become a better driver, I'll upgrade the MR04 motors. But for now, practicing more and improving my driving skills will do more for my race times than upgrading the motors, but that time will come (hopefully).

I love the discussions and learning the experiences of other racers & hobbyists here. We all have our own valid opinions deemed from our own experiences, keep on sharing them and your passions for the hobby!

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Old 06-04-2024, 03:04 PM
  #7862  
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Originally Posted by HeyDay
It's not logical inconsistencies; its a matter of no RC car is perfect; they each shine in their own light. The MR04 is super stable, steering is awesome and has a much better "feel" than the MR03. With the newly available knuckle replacements, the only issue now are the Kyosho motors. Those can be replaced if desired. I've found that a lot of serious racers out there also replace the MR03 motors with aftermarket brands, so not really any difference compared to the MR04 there in the end. I have two MR04's and accept them for what they are and am happy with them. I have them both running 90mm wheelbases which I think suite there power deficiencies well for me. As I become a better driver, I'll upgrade the MR04 motors. But for now, practicing more and improving my driving skills will do more for my race times than upgrading the motors, but that time will come (hopefully).

I love the discussions and learning the experiences of other racers & hobbyists here. We all have our own valid opinions deemed from our own experiences, keep on sharing them and your passions for the hobby!
Thanks for the balanced approach. Sorry if I come off rude.
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Old 06-06-2024, 03:01 PM
  #7863  
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Will PN Ball diff spur gears fit Kyosho Ball diffs? Just looking into an MR04, and didn't know.
Thanks, Drew
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Old 06-06-2024, 04:37 PM
  #7864  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Will PN Ball diff spur gears fit Kyosho Ball diffs? Just looking into an MR04, and didn't know.
Thanks, Drew
You have to sand down the Kyosho diff parts flush with the pressure plates to get the PN spurs to work. The GL 64p spurs work with no modification to the Kyosho diff parts.
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Old 06-06-2024, 05:48 PM
  #7865  
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Thanks Traveler2! Next Mini-z is in the works. The plan is to go with a MR04 5600kv to run ProStock in the M96WC.
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Old 06-10-2024, 08:04 AM
  #7866  
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Default Can’t wait

Can’t wait to see the next one and hear about your tune
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Old 06-17-2024, 12:48 AM
  #7867  
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Quick question, will the Kyosho MZ302 MR-02 LM gear diff work with the MZ305B MR-03 LM motor pod? Just looking for the cheapest way to run my Toyota GT One, since my PN Multi-Mount hits the rear deck .
Also is the MZW305 Aluminum Shock Stay for LM Motor good to have?
Thanks! Drew

Last edited by BoxxerBoyDrew; 06-17-2024 at 01:37 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 06-17-2024, 04:38 AM
  #7868  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Quick question, will the Kyosho MZ302 MR-02 LM gear diff work with the MZ305B MR-03 LM motor pod? Just looking for the cheapest way to run my Toyota GT One, since my PN Multi-Mount hits the rear deck .
Also is the MZW305 Aluminum Shock Stay for LM Motor good to have?
Thanks! Drew
Yes! MZ302 and MZ305 are designed to work together. But MZW305 is to use only the top shock with the LM pod. You’d want MZW307 instead if you also want to use the LM disk damper parts.
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Old 06-17-2024, 07:20 AM
  #7869  
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Awesome, THANKS Traveler2!!! I'll get them ordered. Watching the 24hr Lemans really has me wanting to run the Yota! I'm going to try the 787B after testing my Brushed vs. Brushless with the same Jomurema body on my MR03 vs. PN2.5. I'm still working on the setup to get better mid corner speed. After watching PoorBoy's videos and seeing how well his cars corner vs. mine, I am loosing a lot of time in the switchbacks.

I am also trying to decide weather or not to cut the roof off my Orange Jomurema, because I'm still getting traction rolls in the last high speed 90* with it even with the windows completely removed. It turns better in the switchbacks with the added weight of the rattle can paint, but it just too top heavy. I have the lexan replacement already. What Yall think?
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Old 06-17-2024, 07:40 AM
  #7870  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Awesome, THANKS Traveler2!!! I'll get them ordered. Watching the 24hr Lemans really has me wanting to run the Yota! I'm going to try the 787B after testing my Brushed vs. Brushless with the same Jomurema body on my MR03 vs. PN2.5. I'm still working on the setup to get better mid corner speed. After watching PoorBoy's videos and seeing how well his cars corner vs. mine, I am loosing a lot of time in the switchbacks.

I am also trying to decide weather or not to cut the roof off my Orange Jomurema, because I'm still getting traction rolls in the last high speed 90* with it even with the windows completely removed. It turns better in the switchbacks with the added weight of the rattle can paint, but it just too top heavy. I have the lexan replacement already. What Yall think?
I've never fitted or run the GT One body, but I know it is pretty tight underneath, so I can't say for sure if it will fit the whole stock plastic LM rear pod, disk damper and top shock. I would hold off on getting the MZW307 until you confirm the plastic parts fit well.

That was a great run by PoorBoy, but keep in mind he was running a GLR with MWX brass chassis and a lexan body, so its going to handle much better than a Kyosho or PNR2.5W chassis.

I've never cut the roof off any body, but I have used Lexan windows to reduce weight up high. I try to deal with traction rolling with tire selection and setup, but a lot of the fast guys go with the Lexan roof replacement.

Good luck!
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Old 06-17-2024, 12:17 PM
  #7871  
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Thanks Again Traveler2!
I'm aware of the chassis he was running in the post, and I'm chomping at the bit to try a 28th pan car, but he posted some great runs on u tube too. Oh, by the way would someone hurry and buy the RTRC RTA that's in the for sale forum here! I have almost pulled the trigger on it a few times! My wife would kill me though! Save me from myself!!!
I ordered a plastic LM pod and gear diff, so when they get here I'll see what I can work out with the Yota.
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Old 06-22-2024, 04:34 AM
  #7872  
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Hey Guy’s, I’m running the gt01 body on a mm rear pod, I had to sand a fairly large hole in the rear window for a disk damper with a dual spring top shock, I’ve no idea if the lm pod takes up more room

Walt
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Old 06-22-2024, 11:45 PM
  #7873  
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Yeah Walt, to use a dual spring top shock on my Jomurema I had to drill a hole in the rear window for clearence. It's a pretty common thing from the pics I've seen.
My Banzai order is in the states, so my LM stuff should be here soon. I'm excited to try it with the Yota!

P.S. I had my PN2.5W chassis setup with a PN Multi Mount motor pod, which when I had the axel at it's highest position and my ride height was still at almost 3mm. So I switched to a PN V3 94/98mm Pod, and when testing the fit I found the Jomurema fits with the pod set at 94mm with +2mm off set BBS 20mm wheels. And MAN does it corner at 94mm!!! I will get some times tomorrow when the wife isn't asleep since it's 4:20am! Now with the axel at the same position as the MultiMount and the ride height is 1.5mm, and no hint of traction roll. I Ran both my Jomuremas, the Green no paint w/ lexan window and wing and the Orange roofless at 94mm, and the Orange is quicker and more nimble in the corners. Amazing what a few grams hear and there can do to change the cars soo much!!!
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Last edited by BoxxerBoyDrew; 06-23-2024 at 02:33 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 06-28-2024, 12:08 PM
  #7874  
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Nice Drew!!! But how did you get the Jomurema down to 94mm ?? I’ve truly not had any traction rolling, but I’m no where in y’all’s class
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Old 06-28-2024, 02:43 PM
  #7875  
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Walt, it was just by accident I figured it out. When I switched from the PN Multi-Mount to the PN 94/98mm V3 pod I left the damper and clamp block alone, which puts it at 94mm. When I snapped the body on it just barely fits with +2mm Wide Wheels. Heck, pics explain better than I can! Both my Jomu bodies fit with no contact with the body.
Hopefully I can get some runs in, since the inside coil of our Central A/C developed leaks and due to age can't be repaired/replaced, we have a barely working A/C again. It's getting to 90* inside with the A/C on full, so we are headed to my Parents. Now $4800 later we have to wait for at least a week for a new unit to come in, then they are at least a week out for installation! Got to love Texas Heat!!
As for traction rolling, I didn't have near the problem till I really tired to push my lap speeds. It is mainly in the 90* corner off the straight. though I have rolled it in the switch backs hammering the throttle mid corner. Most of the fast guys hear use C/A, Flanged Wheels, or 19mm wheels to combat T.R., and I am still learning what works for me. I don't know how many times I have reread the threads here to see what the fast guys are doing, and tried it on my rides. Some things work for me other haven't. So keep wrenching and testing to see what makes U fast. Plus with the testing you turn a lot of laps, which always helps!


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Last edited by BoxxerBoyDrew; 06-28-2024 at 02:59 PM. Reason: added info
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