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Kyosho Mini-Z Series

Old 02-08-2024, 05:43 AM
  #7801  
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Has a gone used or have this? The idea sounds good. iMess up batteries using a flat head to remove them any other ideas? Battery remover

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Old 02-08-2024, 11:24 AM
  #7802  
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Originally Posted by Bxclip
Has a gone used or have this? The idea sounds good. iMess up batteries using a flat head to remove them any other ideas? Battery remover
the car comes with battery removers... the clips that holds the battery down fit through the slots under the car to push the batteries up and out of the chassis.
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Old 02-08-2024, 11:25 AM
  #7803  
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Originally Posted by EMU
the car comes with battery removers... the clips that holds the battery down fit through the slots under the car to push the batteries up and out of the chassis.
Haha really? Didn't know that. Just ordered that will let you know how it works
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Old 02-08-2024, 11:47 AM
  #7804  
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I use the motor/pinion tool that they come with to poke out the batteries through the bottom.
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Old 02-09-2024, 08:40 AM
  #7805  
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I watched a video recently about using the SkyRC motor tester to see if a motor was within the specified KV range for a specific MiniZ class. There was some discussion under the video whether or not the testing voltage mattered. The original poster stated he tested at 8.4V, as this gave the highest results, and this was also where their tech inspection tested at. This surprised me, as these tests are fairly straightforward. Run motor, measure RPM, measure Voltage, divide these two and you have your KV value. This should, within reason, result in the same KV value regardless of test voltage. That said, a quick test showed this to be true, but not linear throughout the input voltage range. So, I decided to test this a bit further.

SkyRC motor tester, v1.31, connected with the original 'crocodile' leads to short leads soldered to a a Surpass/Rocket 3500 motor. The tester is powered by a SkyRC B6neo charger in PSU mode, set at max 1.1A. This allows me to select specific output voltages. The B6Neo itself is powered by a 100W USB-C Ugreen power supply, at 20V/5A.
At each input V value the motor was tested at least 3 times. The KV result is the average.
There are 3 voltage readings: one by the B6Neo, one by a Fluke 115 DVM, and one by the SkyRC tester.

The input power rating on the tester itself reads 7.4 - 8.4 V. This test when below and slightly above that.


Observations:
  • Most results are consistent, except those at the outside (upper) regions of rated input voltage.
  • The variation between the averaged values in each 3 tests was low, about 1-2 KV.
  • My tester reports voltages as .1V too high. The video I watched showed a larger difference.
  • Should have recorded measured RPM as well, in hindsight. I revisited the 8.0, 8.2 and 8.4V tests. This showed me the tester uses it's own V value for the KV calculations, which were close enough to be called spot on for on for 8.0 and 8.2, but that value was off for 8.4V: 28709rpm/8.1V= 3544KV, measured: 3540. 29428rpm/8.3V= 3545KV, measured: 3541. 30346rpm/8.5V=3570KV, measured 3610). It seems the calculations go off at higher voltages, *and* the motor seems to perform slightly better.
  • It would be interesting to see if other SkyRC testers show similar numbers.
Conclusion? Based on these findings, I would be careful to test at 8.4V actual input, or even 8.4 input as reported on the tester itself. It also seems to indicate that using a 2S battery as suggested by the manual should be fine as long as it's not really empty or literally straight off the charger. Slightly lower testing voltages would also be more representative of the actual motor speed during a race. Or to word it for regulations: tester input voltage should be between 7.4-8.4V (not inclusive) as reported by tester.
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Old 02-09-2024, 06:58 PM
  #7806  
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Love your testing of the voltage scaling of the analyzer. I saw the video TJay did, and have seen the effects that different voltage has on the readings. I like a fixed 8.4v power supply myself for accurate reading, but a LiPo works ok and doesnt read OVER what it should. Which is what is important for tech.
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Old 02-10-2024, 09:44 AM
  #7807  
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I found the tester actually wasn't accurate at 8.4V, 8.3V and below for accurate consistent reading. Of course, based on n=1 testing with a single tester. Results should be repeatable and consistent. As the calculation (RPM/V=KV) seems off at 8.4V that would mean inconsistent and unreliable to me. (Of course safe if you test yourself, as it reads high. But if tech uses 8.4V, they're going to read higher than they should as well...)

Last edited by ijdod; 02-10-2024 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 02-11-2024, 07:47 AM
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Hey Guys, my stock chassis (an RTR MR03) has developed a bad twitch/chatter in the steering mostly turning right. The wheels twitch quickly back and forth when holding it mid-steer. I'm thinking it's possibly a dirty pot, so I'm going to pull it apart and clean it well, but if that's not it what else can I check? I have a spare pot from another RTR board that lost it's forward drive to try if necessary.
Awesome data ijdod!!! I really enjoy reading info on these little guys! THANKS!!!
Take Care and Drive Fast! Drew
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Old 02-11-2024, 02:13 PM
  #7809  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Hey Guys, my stock chassis (an RTR MR03) has developed a bad twitch/chatter in the steering mostly turning right. The wheels twitch quickly back and forth when holding it mid-steer. I'm thinking it's possibly a dirty pot, so I'm going to pull it apart and clean it well, but if that's not it what else can I check? I have a spare pot from another RTR board that lost it's forward drive to try if necessary.
Awesome data ijdod!!! I really enjoy reading info on these little guys! THANKS!!!
Take Care and Drive Fast! Drew
Sounds like a dirty pot. Try cleaning with motor spray and see if that helps. If not, then could be bad gears or an issue with servo saver...
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Old 02-11-2024, 04:49 PM
  #7810  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Hey Guys, my stock chassis (an RTR MR03) has developed a bad twitch/chatter in the steering mostly turning right. The wheels twitch quickly back and forth when holding it mid-steer. I'm thinking it's possibly a dirty pot, so I'm going to pull it apart and clean it well, but if that's not it what else can I check? I have a spare pot from another RTR board that lost it's forward drive to try if necessary.
Awesome data ijdod!!! I really enjoy reading info on these little guys! THANKS!!!
Take Care and Drive Fast! Drew
A similar issue started with mine last month, but haven't tried digging into it yet.
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Old 02-11-2024, 07:13 PM
  #7811  
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I had a similar issue with the twitching. My car started traction rolling and thought it was setup issue. Turns out it was transmitter. When my hand pushed down on the wheel, is starts to twitch. There is so much slop that it sirts shorts the pot. Shimmed the wheel with 8x12x0.3mm shim from the pot side and 8x12x1.5mm shim from the wheel side.
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Old 02-12-2024, 12:02 AM
  #7812  
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Thanks for the help guys! I should have mentioned I use a NB4 with the chip for my RTR's. I will dig into it this week and clean and see if it fixes it and go from there. It's not too noticeable in the 180s in this months M96WC layout, but it will roll me or put me into the wall on the fast 90!
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Old 02-13-2024, 01:34 AM
  #7813  
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Hey Guys, we got a surprise rebate check from our mortgage co. so I am thinking of taking a bunch of my spare parts and building an EVO Stock chassis for the M96WC. I can do it pretty cheaply, besides the EVO board, IF I go with Plastic Kyosho parts I need to finish the build. BUT I'm a BIG wrencher/tuner, and I enjoy that part of the hobby as much as driving, and the PN AA front suspension really draws my attention!!! Not only do they look great, but if you add up the cost of all the parts to make the same adjustments that the Double A does/comes with the costs don't differ that much. And the Double A Arm seems to adjust easier/quicker compared to swapping parts out.
So after all my rambling, my question is the PN Double A Arm setup worth the $? I have Kyosho upper caster arm kit (plastic), and tie rod set that I haven't tried yet, mainly because of the hassle of taking apart/unsnapping all of the parts only to have to rip it all apart again when I don't like the changes, then the parts wear out, not from use but from repeated disassembly. That and the 3 chassis I have are handling pretty well, and I don't want to screw them up!
I thought of just getting an MR04 to get the sensored brushless, but I'm not crazy about the plastic motor mounts, and the 2 PN motor mounts I have don't take Kyosho motors.
Thanks for any and all help! Drew
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Old 02-13-2024, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Hey Guys, we got a surprise rebate check from our mortgage co. so I am thinking of taking a bunch of my spare parts and building an EVO Stock chassis for the M96WC. I can do it pretty cheaply, besides the EVO board, IF I go with Plastic Kyosho parts I need to finish the build. BUT I'm a BIG wrencher/tuner, and I enjoy that part of the hobby as much as driving, and the PN AA front suspension really draws my attention!!! Not only do they look great, but if you add up the cost of all the parts to make the same adjustments that the Double A does/comes with the costs don't differ that much. And the Double A Arm seems to adjust easier/quicker compared to swapping parts out.
So after all my rambling, my question is the PN Double A Arm setup worth the $? I have Kyosho upper caster arm kit (plastic), and tie rod set that I haven't tried yet, mainly because of the hassle of taking apart/unsnapping all of the parts only to have to rip it all apart again when I don't like the changes, then the parts wear out, not from use but from repeated disassembly. That and the 3 chassis I have are handling pretty well, and I don't want to screw them up!
I thought of just getting an MR04 to get the sensored brushless, but I'm not crazy about the plastic motor mounts, and the 2 PN motor mounts I have don't take Kyosho motors.
Thanks for any and all help! Drew
Hey BBD! Here is my experience and 2 cents. The PN AA front is very nice and exceptionally smooth, likely the best front end out there. But the only reason I have one on my Stock 3500 car is because a friend that raced in the M96WC gifted it to me. I could not bring myself to spend the money on it, even though as you pointed out, the PN Pro front ends that I do have on several of my cars come close in price once you add up all the components. I'm just thrifty. Plus I have 20+ running cars, and if I put the PN AA arm on just half of them, that would be a small fortune. I was also a little intimidated by building it and tuning it. Luckily, I just built it as instructed with the recommended settings and have not tinkered with it since. It is very low maintenance, and once set, it requires no involvement.

I guess over the years, I've evolved from wanting to buy and bolt on every piece of bling, to trying to build equally competitive cars with just stock parts and a few select upgrades. Keep in mind, I spent a lot more on Mini-Zs since I've been in the hobby than what my real car cost. From a performance standpoint, my PN70T Stock car with Pro front and my 3500 PNR2.5W Stock car are very even on the M96WC layout. I usually run both every month, and they are only separated by a few seconds. Some months the PN Pro front end car is faster and other months the PN AA Arm car is quicker. You'd have to scroll through that thread to see if one has more wins than the other over time...

So bottom line is, if you have the money to burn, its definitely nice to have a PN AA front end. The handling is superb and it will give you lots of opportunities to tweak and wrench on. As grateful as I am to my buddy for giving me one, I still can't bring myself to buy another one. Hope this helps you decide...
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Old 02-13-2024, 10:51 AM
  #7815  
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Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
Hey Guys, we got a surprise rebate check from our mortgage co. so I am thinking of taking a bunch of my spare parts and building an EVO Stock chassis for the M96WC. I can do it pretty cheaply, besides the EVO board, IF I go with Plastic Kyosho parts I need to finish the build. BUT I'm a BIG wrencher/tuner, and I enjoy that part of the hobby as much as driving, and the PN AA front suspension really draws my attention!!! Not only do they look great, but if you add up the cost of all the parts to make the same adjustments that the Double A does/comes with the costs don't differ that much. And the Double A Arm seems to adjust easier/quicker compared to swapping parts out.
So after all my rambling, my question is the PN Double A Arm setup worth the $? I have Kyosho upper caster arm kit (plastic), and tie rod set that I haven't tried yet, mainly because of the hassle of taking apart/unsnapping all of the parts only to have to rip it all apart again when I don't like the changes, then the parts wear out, not from use but from repeated disassembly. That and the 3 chassis I have are handling pretty well, and I don't want to screw them up!
I thought of just getting an MR04 to get the sensored brushless, but I'm not crazy about the plastic motor mounts, and the 2 PN motor mounts I have don't take Kyosho motors.
Thanks for any and all help! Drew
Howdy Folks. Just throwing in my experience for what its worth (probably less than 2 cents ;-) ) ; I don't currently have the PN setups, but one of my cars is a MR04, and that chassis is so super smooth in its out of the box setup. It's my best running and smoothest car at this early point in my Mini-Z racing career. My Giulia and GLR-GT are technically faster, but in the M96WC, the MR04 is currently the quickest for me because it is so smooth and easy to drive. I'm sure at some point I'll get a PN rig going.
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