BuggyFan21

Does anyone know if the KO-Propo Ex Next transmitter would work with a new Mini-ZI'm looking to get the brushless buggy and it comes without a transmitter - I can see my Ex Next has a mini-z option in the RF Mode setting, but I don't have a mini-z to test with (and KO sell their own mini-z receiver's further muddying the waters!)
Cheers!

sammysy

Unfortunately not. The current brushless buggy (mb-010ve 2.0) uses the kyosho mini-z fhss protocol. You will need kt531p, kt432pt or nb4+rm005 for it.

KO's mini-z mode is for the KO evo receiver used on the mini-z evo series (mr-03evo, ma-030evo), but it's not available on the buggy series.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

First, I moved this over here, from the other thread, as I figured it was more appropriate. That being said, I found videos on the "penny/coin trick", but haven't yet had time to watch any of them. Between trying to get my personal stuff (especially my BR, RC workstation, and desktop computer workstation) organized & set up, trying to get all my CDL stuff taken care of, and trying to get my new job taken care of, I've been so busy since the move. All & all, the move went well...except that now I have a cold, and am hoping it's completely gone by the time I start training for work next Monday. On the 'plus' side (for Mini-Z related stuff), in addition to the previously-mentioned MR-03 & Lexus SC430 body for "Box Stock", I now have an MR-03 EVO SP chassis & the McLaren Senna body for "Stock".

Being home sick, I used this time as a great opportunity to work on the SC430. So far, I've done the kinpin flip, swapped the motor's pinion for the Delrin pinion, swapped the front body mount for CF, and swapped in the 'authorized' aluminum 0-deg knuckles. Although I haven't worked on them yet, I also have the front & rear springs, and FG T-Plates. As I don't see anything in the "Box Stock" rules disallowing them, I am planning on adding shims to the servo saver, replacing the servo gears with the Delrin gears, and either locking the rear gear diff, or replacing the spider gears with O-rings (to 'stiffen up' the diff). If you (or anyone else) knows whether, or not, these last three mods are allowed, please, chime in. Best I can tell, after those three (if allowed) are done, all that should be left is the coin trick, determining whether (or not) weights are needed on the underside of the chassis (and placement of said weights). Then, it should just a matter of determining which spring stiffness (front & rear) is 'optimal'.

As for the "Stock" McLaren Senna, I'm just starting the list. So far, I've obtained the 4100kv motor, ceramic ball bearing rear axle/diff, blue anodized wheel nuts (to match the body), plus the Delrin gear set, Delrin 5th gear, & metal 5th gear for the servo. Have to review the "Stock" rules before I add anything to the list. The Mini-96 track arrived, but I'm still waiting for the EasyLap Timing System. In the meantime, Ive been designing several 'training' tracks for my step-dad & myself to learn on. Only 'down' side is...DAMN, these parts are friggin' tiny...lol

Not true. While it might be true in regards to KO-Propo, there IS a Tx that the FHSS Mini-Zs will work with. And, there might actually be two. The FlySky Noble NB4 has a port in the bottom of the handle, which accepts the FS-RM005 module (made by FlySky, sold by Kyosho). If you look at the contacts, you instantly realize that FlySky used the cell phone SIM-card connection. Anyway, by plugging this module into the Noble NB4, it adds Kyosho's FHSS protocol to the Tx. While I am uncertain, the Noble Pro *might* also be able to utilize the FS-RM005 (although, I'm doubting it...some sources say "yes", others say "no"). I'll be running both of my Mini-Zs with my Noble NB4 - my Lexus SC430 using the FS-RM005, and my McLaren Senna using the Noble NB4 Rx 'plug-in'.

Panther6834

iTrader: (2)

*deleted by user*

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I have tried running the rear diff as a spool, and it has poor relative performance compared to using grease to slow the diff action on RCP. Its too high traction, compared to carpet where spools are commonly used in RWD application. Generally, you want to remove the unloading of the diff over bumps (uneven seams in the RCP). You can try some silly putty or blue tack in the spider gears if you want to try the spool but easily revert back to an open diff if it doesnt go well.

I assume that you race at LEMO based on SF Bay location, so best thing would be to check with Art about the servo regs for the class. They dont run a true box stock class, which has a lot more limitations, but run a slightly more open class which offers more reliability upgrades to the cars and should allow servo gear/saver upgrades (but not sure).

art4242

I put this video together, it's long but will hopefully provide some guidance for those starting out in 1/28 scale and are asking which chassis/motor to start with:

https://youtu.be/Ay9INlDIM_4

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Anyone tried the ICS programmer with the MR03RWD?

abailey21

iTrader: (37)

MR03 Evo yes, well I use the $14 ali knock off instead of paying $75 for a VERY cheap programmer.

NutDriver

iTrader: (30)

Not the EVO but the RWD (latest RTR model). Thanks for the response, though.

art4242

The MR-03RWD electronics do not allow for programming, the ICS adapter will not work with it. The ICS only works with EVO boards or older ASF boards.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I seem to be locked out of this thread by an error, cant see the current page, but can see the first 500 pages... just trying to see if a reply works to reset.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

test

MULMZ2

iTrader: (1)

Good test. Your posts are on page 502.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I can post, but still cant see the page. Submitted a support ticket, see what happens.

BoxxerBoyDrew

Hey Guys and Merry Christmas! I am needing to replace the motor pod on my MR-03 since the plastic MM has cracked. I have been looking at the PN V5 LCG and the PN Multi Mount 93-102mm. I have a Pn ball diff already, and I'm running on my Mini-96 track 95% of the time in the Mini-96WC in the stock class. SO is the adjustability of the Multi Mount better/more preferred or is the extra low LCG? I like the idea of the Multi Mount, but majority of the RWD bodies suitable for racing and still available are 98mm, my favorite so far being the Jomurema!
Thanks for any advice! Drew