DustinR

iTrader: (10)

Many thanks for quick replies guys!

DustinR

iTrader: (10)

Does anyone have info on a set of Kyosho plastic wheels for Audi-R8-LMS-2016 - Offset: 1.5N/1.5W.

I can find 1.5N wheels but I cant find any 1.5w plastic Kyosho wheels. I require kyosho plastic wheels to run box stock class.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Can you fit +2 in the back?

https://rc.kyosho.com/en/mzh131w-w2.html

superfly05

Is this an AWD configuration? If it's RWD, I think it's more than 1.5 all around.

titanmaru

just use +2 on the rear. You should be fine. I do the same on my car without scrubbing.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I would get a set of 1w and 2w, and see which fit best. Wheels are cheap, shipping and time are not. It is better to have an extra set or two of wheels and not need them, than need to make another order just for wheels.

zxcvb1t

I've been eyeing for a set of double a arm system for a while now... For such a high price tag associated with them, how much of a improvement over Kyosho's single swing arm can i expect on a small track?(Rcp96 to be exact.)

EMU

iTrader: (3)

The primary benefit of the double a-arm setup is that there is less camber gain and better damping than the standard geometry. This generally means that a more aggressive front setup can be used with less traction roll risk in the mid corner.

On a small track, this tends to be less of an issue due to lower speeds, and lower camber/caster settings to maximize initial steering. On larger circuits where the car has more lateral loads it is more beneficial. On small circuits with standard geometry I use 0d knuckles, and have additional shims above the knuckles to promote more camber gain, as I want to maximize traction into the corner and through it. On larger circuits, I try to keep the upper arms as flat as possible to reduce camber gain.

The on the fly roll center/camber adjustment on the double a-arm can save considerable time to dial in the geometry setting that you are looking for. Generally, I don't use double a-arm, but do think that it does have its merits.

zxcvb1t

Thank you EMU...Again you helped me to solve my doubts and actually solved my other issue in regards of shims above the knuckles... I think i have put too much one my 2.5w (4 0.3mm above the knuckle) while none on my 03 evo... maybe thats why i find the 03 evo is lazy in corner entry while 2.5w is nervous in mid sweeper.

Based on your explanation, double a arm doesn't seem to be a wise decision for me...Costly and will introduce too much variables for the limited wrenching time I have between work. Running rcp96 at midnight, the last thing i want is incorrect setup on my chassis...

I guess the money will be better spent on mainboard upgrade... The Evo's mainboard has been reproduced by Dasmirko and costs just a bit more than a reproduced brushed asf board... it improves how the car handles drastically...

EMU

iTrader: (3)

I feel that on the mr02, the double arms were a necessary upgrade to reduce stiction and increase camber gain. On the mr03 with a flipped kingpin setup, I think the benefits are greatly reduced, but still there. Having been sponsored by multiple companies who did not have double a-arm front ends, a lot of my setup theory revolves around the single arm geometry. Now driving the GLR as my primary car, it is the same setup theory as with the mr03 and flipped kingpins.

when traction is very high, that is where I feel doubled a-arm really shines. But also the on the fly adjustments, saves a lot of time to make some small changes in geometry. On a traditional front end it could take 10-15 minutes to make an adjustment which takes a minute on the double a-arm configuration.

Whether the value of double a-arm really depends on the user. Some value it more than others. When you compare the costs of a fully upgraded standard geometry front end, it can still be quite expensive. My go to mr03 front end uses the reflex adjustable tower bar (x-power has a similar version) with the kyosho inner tube damper, and alu lower tower. Using 0, .5 and 1d knuckles while adjusting the width of the hinge pin while retaining the same static camber can change how the car reacts and feels in the corner. When you compare costs, it can be just as costly to do a single arm as it is a double a-arm to have the same setup options...

zxcvb1t

Expensive or not... I guess i can't get one now... The on going pandemic has cut off pn's part supply in my region while the nexx's systems are all stuck in custom...

Honestly , the biggest complain for me in regards of standard geometry is just how rare some parts are. Outside of Kyosho's offering, there aren't many parts maker left and treasure hunting old stock and used parts is time consuming...

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (8)

Honestly I’ve been running now for almost 3 years with a basically stock front suspension on all 6 of my RWD with out feeling the need. I’m more then competitive in our stock class. Mixed in super stock.

zxcvb1t

My sensible part of the brain told me not to overspent and build something just for running rcp96... But the other half of my brain told me to do it.

Im fine with the stock set up... I guess the more important part is to play with the shims over tj knuckle and grease on the king pins. I also has a set of atomic ias front end I never used... maybe i should.give it a try before going down the double a arm route..

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (8)

My opinion. Too many rush into upgrades on these. I see it daily in the Facebook groups. It’s not even out the box and guys have $200 in parts ordered.
I did move to different steering blocs. And just this year finally tried different front springs.

Chris Furman

iTrader: (118)

agree... these run fantastic out of the box!