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Kyosho Mini-Z Series

Old 09-15-2020, 05:57 PM
  #6901  
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There are benefits and drawbacks, but overall the advantages are much stronger. The primary benefit is stated above. Much less friction surface area. This allows much less binding on suspension travel. The stock knuckle in particular binds up pretty quickly.

on to the negative. Mass of the ball end is now raised to above the arm rather than below it and is now unsprung mass. Unable to limit suspension down travel. Less friction can lead to a faster reaction of front suspension. To mitigate this, I use a little grease between the kingpin and lower ball. I usually use a dab about 1mm cubed, applied with a toothpick periodically when assembly is already built and suspension raised (above lower ball but below knuckle/shims) then work it in and wipe off excess while suspension is lowered. This helps calm the cat and reduce chatter. It is less consistent greasing the upper ball and knuckle on the standard configuration. I use the same method for the GL-Racing GLR which by default comes with the kingpin fixed to the upper arm/ball.
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Old 09-16-2020, 05:52 AM
  #6902  
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After a little practice

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Last edited by Billy Kelly; 09-16-2020 at 08:30 AM.
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Old 09-16-2020, 07:56 AM
  #6903  
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I may just polish for the time being and cut later. I have no cutting tools and dont want to mess it up! Thanks EMU!
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Old 09-16-2020, 03:25 PM
  #6904  
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Originally Posted by maxwellduryea View Post
I may just polish for the time being and cut later. I have no cutting tools and dont want to mess it up! Thanks EMU!
The reason for cutting is once you invert them, the non-ball long end hangs out the bottom, and will drag on the track if you don't cut them. I use a full size set of wire cutters and just snip it off a little past the e-clip ring. I install them hanging out, mark them with a Sharpie, take them out and cut them, put them back in. Where you cut is somewhat critical, there's not a ton of margin between too long and dragging on the track, or too short and falling out of the ball under high load. Ideally, there's just a little nub, maybe 1mm that hangs out the bottom when sitting neutral.
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Old 09-16-2020, 06:50 PM
  #6905  
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I might be selling an MR-02
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Old 09-17-2020, 08:56 AM
  #6906  
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Originally Posted by superfly05 View Post
The reason for cutting is once you invert them, the non-ball long end hangs out the bottom, and will drag on the track if you don't cut them. I use a full size set of wire cutters and just snip it off a little past the e-clip ring. I install them hanging out, mark them with a Sharpie, take them out and cut them, put them back in. Where you cut is somewhat critical, there's not a ton of margin between too long and dragging on the track, or too short and falling out of the ball under high load. Ideally, there's just a little nub, maybe 1mm that hangs out the bottom when sitting neutral.
I just use small pliers, and snip where the c-clip goes, then file down the tip so it's smooth.
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Old 09-19-2020, 02:35 PM
  #6907  
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Any detail shots of said procedure?
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Old 09-19-2020, 03:54 PM
  #6908  
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Originally Posted by maxwellduryea View Post
Any detail shots of said procedure?
Just did mine today. Itís so much smoother. Zero bind. Iím getting rid of the aluminum arm and going back to plastics. It sucks cause I have 5 sets of them 😩

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Old 09-21-2020, 03:42 PM
  #6909  
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
After a little practice

https://youtu.be/EiuJIMqYH78
Billy,,,I like your track. Nice job !
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Old 09-21-2020, 04:38 PM
  #6910  
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Originally Posted by Tim3 View Post
Billy,,,I like your track. Nice job !
Iím suprised it works. The blind spots arenít too bad.
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Old 09-23-2020, 12:20 PM
  #6911  
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Originally Posted by RCSteveH View Post
Just did mine today. Itís so much smoother. Zero bind. Iím getting rid of the aluminum arm and going back to plastics. It sucks cause I have 5 sets of them 😩

https://youtu.be/RMt8zE41CJ0
MZW413 and MZW433 free up the stock orientation. They also work in the flipped position, but elimiante any need to polish the joint locations.
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