Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

+1 on what he said. Those plates are only part of a more broader running game. A spring set will cost u 10 bucks and 1 plate is about the same. More tunabilaty with springs I would say. Also tires are a big part of the game u can make a car edgy or easy to drive just with a simple tire change.

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

if u want to play with ride Height do it by adding or subtracting shims on the kingpin where the knuckle is. Adding preload is changing the spring rate.

jiggen5354

Just finished my home built track over the weekend using EVA 600mm x 600mm foam tiles. The track size is 2.4m X 3.6m with a lane width of 480mm. The foam mats have a rough and a smooth side. I am running on the smooth side. Its pinned together with timber dowels. In hindsight, I think plastic wall plugs would have worked better as theres 270 dowels cut at 20mm each.

RCP tracks are way too expensive in Australia compared to the US. A mini96 in Australia is approximately $550 USD shipped vs $199-230 USD in the US. My track build has cost me a little over $100 Australian dollarydoos or $70 USD.

I havent driven a rc car on a track since 2014 so I had a bit of learning curve with the mr-03 evo 12000kv. 17.5 boost was the norm for stock (great times)and we were changing to 13.5 blinky stock (meh). So far I have noticed:

1. 12000kv is waaaayy more power than I need on such a small track. I turned throttle down to 50% and even thenl, its a handful.

2. The EVA track barrier I used will stop a car dead in its tracks when you brush up against it. This makes the track feel very narrow as you need to stay away from the track barriers.

3. The mr-03 has a lot of steering. I need to get used to how quickly it changes direction.

4. I want lap timing.

sotirisn12

any help?

superfly05

Hard to tell exactly what you're asking, but the VE Pro board should be putting out all the power you need. If you have a 3500 motor, you might try a 5600 or 12000 motor.

zxcvb1t

Try turn down the steering dual rate on your radio. If break end point is available then you can also play with it. For me, the main problem is when under heavy braking, mr03 has the tendency to spin out or over rotate. I have to turn the EPA to 30 but then the brake seems a bit weak for me.

Can't help with the motor problem though. EMU who frequent the tread used to say that on nimh, 5600 will be fine and on lipo 3500 is all you need for this small track. I'll get my hands on a mr03ve with blue eco this week and I'll see what's gonna happen.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

on a small track like that, or mini 96, a 3500kv on nimh would be ideal. 5600kv nimh or 2S 3500kv will be a lot of power on a track that size, but you should be able to get away with it. More power than that, and it will be a knife fight in a phone booth...

Scionara05

iTrader: (2)

Is there any other option for a lexan Tc body besides atomic and marka. I know there is a gl body but were trying to get a mini tc class only using a lexan body and 4wd chassis

nomoscrilla

iTrader: (6)

Just replaced stock motor on mr03 with a PN Racing 70 turn motor and it's a lot quicker (and louder!). Any tips out there on how to quiet these down? Currently running an aftermarket diff, but not sure which one. Few other questions: recommendations for spur/pinion tooth count?,,just running on rcp-like track...looking for a good all-round setup. And finally, broke one of the plastic motor plates so now thinking of upgrading to aluminum PN Racing motor mount...any recommendations on those? Cheers!

zxcvb1t

She's finally arrived. Seems like I picked up the original mr03ve. I noticed that the ics 1.7 bluetooth software states there is an issue with the software and refers me to the Kyosho development blog, but I can't find the blog post. Does anyone here know what's the problem with the software?


And I just can't have enough MP4-12C....

EMU

iTrader: (3)

the PN 98mm LCG v4 has always been my most recommended aluminum mount. It has good versatility, and reliability. I have not had time to test v5 yet, but have used the v3/v4 models for 10 years now. I have seen some issues with v5 and fighting the larger bearing nub that the 70t has compared to the brushless and other motors.

the PN pro match pinions are much quieter than kyosho molded ones since they are machined. Proper gear mesh/ lash will quiet it down considerably. Gear differentials are louder than the ball diffs as well.

EMU

iTrader: (3)

x-power also has some. Jomurema has one as well. Kenon has a few different models in stock.

I think XRX also has one, but not sure if it is released yet.
http://godracing.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=128

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

LJH

iTrader: (2)

From looking at the springs they appear to be linear and not progressive so changing the preload will not affect spring rate.

I am still confused what these shims are used for but I am guessing they help when you take shims off of the kingpin for a lower ride height.

Cheers,
Jim

zxcvb1t

Thanks Jim, then these shims are somewhat pointless as we can put normal shims on the original plastic shims to adjust ride height, should be a lot more affordable than the r246 shim sets and do the same things... Just my thought,