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Old 07-20-2019, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EbbTide View Post

And this is why we cant have nice things =/
That's pretty horrible. Any way to ask EV or DZ about putting up some safety cones or stanchions and signs to keep people off?

I think a large part of it is that most don't know realized how important a clean track is for traction at this scale. It also doesn't help being right next to the off road road track and people cutting across through the back door.
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Old 07-20-2019, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by art4242 View Post
That's pretty horrible. Any way to ask EV or DZ about putting up some safety cones or stanchions and signs to keep people off?

I think a large part of it is that most don't know realized how important a clean track is for traction at this scale. It also doesn't help being right next to the off road road track and people cutting across through the back door.
We have asked them to at least put some signage up to warn people away from walking on the track in their shoes but that was at least a month ago and nothing has happened. They dont even use the tarp anymore which to be fair didnt work that well anyway but at least it protected it a tiny bit. I honestly think they dont really want the Mini z class anymore and have moved onto the mini off road stuff as you can see the small wooden jumps on the track. If we want to drive we have to be the ones to clean the track and cleaning that much dirt really sucks when you just want to drive.I doubt any staff will do it.
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Old 07-20-2019, 01:51 PM
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It really hurts to see the track in this condition. It sounds like some of the offroad guys want to deter mini-z racing from running there. While a little dirt doesn't bother them, it makes the track almost unusable in its current state for mini-z. If they don't do the most that they can to protect their track for local racers, I will not do business with them online for anything. I do buy a considerable amount of cycling gear as well as RC, as do my riding friends, so they will be losing business.
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Old 07-20-2019, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post
It really hurts to see the track in this condition. It sounds like some of the offroad guys want to deter mini-z racing from running there. While a little dirt doesn't bother them, it makes the track almost unusable in its current state for mini-z. If they don't do the most that they can to protect their track for local racers, I will not do business with them online for anything. I do buy a considerable amount of cycling gear as well as RC, as do my riding friends, so they will be losing business.
I actually think you're onto something with the off road drivers not being too happy with the mini z track. When they put the track in they had to take out a few rows of pit tables to get the track back there. so it wouldn't surprise me if the off road guys were upset about losing the extra pit space.

I am not bringing my miniz to that track anymore. I'm also not buying anymore miniz parts from them. It's just been a lot of empty promises. Which really sucks because I've been enjoying the mini z way more than my off road cars. Now I'm back to just driving off road there and then I wait for the track days that Art is kind enough to setup for us.
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Old 07-20-2019, 02:48 PM
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Us mini-z guys, more often than not dabble in all sorts of other RC related products. If they cannot respect the track, and keep their other customers in line, it doesn't look like it is worth going through the frustration of cleaning the track each time you go...

The micro scale is generally looked down upon by larger scale racers, however, those that try mini-z often get hooked because of how much more you can do in a smaller space compared to the larger scales. In the last race I went to, the establishment has 1/10 road, and a drift track, and there were a few people who were a little upset that we were running mini-z. I think it was mostly that there were 30 mini-z racers, and only 4 for the 1/10 track so they couldn't even run a race... I think mini-z is starting to grow again as expenses for larger scale tracks continue to increase, and micro scales are more sustainable.

I just feel that many places that run multiple scales put the micro tracks off to the sidelines and run them around the larger scales, where in time, the micro scale may grow to be the dominant scale because it is more affordable, and keeps people coming to the track to race rather than waiting a race or two because of expenses of running larger scales.

Margins on cars and parts aren't large enough to sustain a track, it's the race entries that really make the difference. Especially with how often larger scale models are released, with such minor updates, you can still be competitive with a car from 3-4 years ago, and it also seems that any decent racer is now offered partial sponsorships, so they don't even get their cars and parts at the track but directly from the manufacturer instead, then sell off their obsolete equipment at discount, reducing a lot of would be profit from the hobby shops and tracks... this doesn't really happen in the micro market. You might have at most 5 sponsored driver's in the US right now... the PN drivers, one Atomic driver.. everyone is basically a privateer, so much trickles back into the track through sales rather than just race entry fees.

plus, due to the lower cost of entry and sustainability, micro races will often have 3-5+ cars... which if you add up the $, is more money than the one or two larger scale cars that they would have. It's cheaper, so you buy a lot more. Not even going to get into body collectors....

sorry for the rant
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Old 07-20-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post
Us mini-z guys, more often than not dabble in all sorts of other RC related products. If they cannot respect the track, and keep their other customers in line, it doesn't look like it is worth going through the frustration of cleaning the track each time you go...

The micro scale is generally looked down upon by larger scale racers, however, those that try mini-z often get hooked because of how much more you can do in a smaller space compared to the larger scales. In the last race I went to, the establishment has 1/10 road, and a drift track, and there were a few people who were a little upset that we were running mini-z. I think it was mostly that there were 30 mini-z racers, and only 4 for the 1/10 track so they couldn't even run a race... I think mini-z is starting to grow again as expenses for larger scale tracks continue to increase, and micro scales are more sustainable.

I just feel that many places that run multiple scales put the micro tracks off to the sidelines and run them around the larger scales, where in time, the micro scale may grow to be the dominant scale because it is more affordable, and keeps people coming to the track to race rather than waiting a race or two because of expenses of running larger scales.

Margins on cars and parts aren't large enough to sustain a track, it's the race entries that really make the difference. Especially with how often larger scale models are released, with such minor updates, you can still be competitive with a car from 3-4 years ago, and it also seems that any decent racer is now offered partial sponsorships, so they don't even get their cars and parts at the track but directly from the manufacturer instead, then sell off their obsolete equipment at discount, reducing a lot of would be profit from the hobby shops and tracks... this doesn't really happen in the micro market. You might have at most 5 sponsored driver's in the US right now... the PN drivers, one Atomic driver.. everyone is basically a privateer, so much trickles back into the track through sales rather than just race entry fees.

plus, due to the lower cost of entry and sustainability, micro races will often have 3-5+ cars... which if you add up the $, is more money than the one or two larger scale cars that they would have. It's cheaper, so you buy a lot more. Not even going to get into body collectors....

sorry for the rant
hah no worries man. i agree with everything you said. It does get kicked to the side when there is also 1/10 or 1/8 scale to contend with and they just dont seem to have enough paid staff to really regulate the track and who uses it. Or maybe just not enough of them that care. Even with the off road track it is usually the racers that put water on it and blow it off when it gets dusty.

It would just make a lot of sense if they at least kept it semi dust free. They have a shop full of mini z readyset cars and no one wants to buy them because the track is a dump. You cant get interest going if you cant keep a decent place to run.
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post

The micro scale is generally looked down upon by larger scale racers, however, those that try mini-z often get hooked because of how much more you can do in a smaller space compared to the larger scales. In the last race I went to, the establishment has 1/10 road, and a drift track, and there were a few people who were a little upset that we were running mini-z. I think it was mostly that there were 30 mini-z racers, and only 4 for the 1/10 track so they couldn't even run a race... I think mini-z is starting to grow again as expenses for larger scale tracks continue to increase, and micro scales are more sustainable.
Rccw has had a bad rap when it comes to racers. Some of the 1/10 guys started to boycott it because of something that happen. Dont know specifics but I was told when I moved to nj do t go there but I didnt listen.
mini for me has been more fun the any scale I have done. The cost to run a 10th scale car is absurd. I can honestly say I have about 1100 in just 1 car then when I look at my mini witch is full blown out with parts and electronics I'm only in it at maybe 300 total that's buying batterys and chargers. What I spend for 2 batterys for 10th I can get a micro artr for the same price. Plus having a track in my basement is a plus.
sorry but I just cant see myself running 10th scale again the way I use to with the prices of motors batterys and chassis costing what it would be to buy a real car to goto work
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Scionara05 View Post
Rccw has had a bad rap when it comes to racers. Some of the 1/10 guys started to boycott it because of something that happen. Dont know specifics but I was told when I moved to nj do t go there but I didnt listen.
mini for me has been more fun the any scale I have done. The cost to run a 10th scale car is absurd. I can honestly say I have about 1100 in just 1 car then when I look at my mini witch is full blown out with parts and electronics I'm only in it at maybe 300 total that's buying batterys and chargers. What I spend for 2 batterys for 10th I can get a micro artr for the same price. Plus having a track in my basement is a plus.
sorry but I just cant see myself running 10th scale again the way I use to with the prices of motors batterys and chassis costing what it would be to buy a real car to goto work
when I raced f1 at 360, I bought a used xray on ebay, rebuilt it, and drove it. There was a bad axle bearing which blow mid run during the main and I ended up burning ot the esc (which was a cheap quickrun), swapped all the bearings and the ESC to a Justock, and the next race was great and I was competitive. Roland and I battled for the lead, and I managed to come off with the win.

I wouldn't have been able to be competitive without my mini-z experience and knowledge gained from running these cars. The 1/10 f1 felt slow and easy to place, but traction felt low even when everyone was saying that it was high. With 1/28, we need a lot more traction since the cars are so much faster relative to the size. It's so much easier to move upscale than down... but much of the setup theory does translate.
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Old 07-21-2019, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post
when I raced f1 at 360, I bought a used xray on ebay, rebuilt it, and drove it. There was a bad axle bearing which blow mid run during the main and I ended up burning ot the esc (which was a cheap quickrun), swapped all the bearings and the ESC to a Justock, and the next race was great and I was competitive. Roland and I battled for the lead, and I managed to come off with the win.

I wouldn't have been able to be competitive without my mini-z experience and knowledge gained from running these cars. The 1/10 f1 felt slow and easy to place, but traction felt low even when everyone was saying that it was high. With 1/28, we need a lot more traction since the cars are so much faster relative to the size. It's so much easier to move upscale than down... but much of the setup theory does translate.
when I transfetransferred over to mini z it wasnt a steep learning curve compared to just starting with mini z. What I had to learne is the difference in chassis that are available in the market and finding parts meant for them. Like electronics and micro servo boards. If I was never told that I wouldve ended up buying another 300 dollar radio instead of using things I already have to my advantage. 100 bucks in parts is a lot more doable than 300 on just 1 radio
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Old 07-21-2019, 04:40 PM
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Running 3 classes makes for busy day. Definitely going to have to make simple check off list for batteries next time.

First day in open class with the Evo 12000. I believe I did decent, I’ll have to wait till results are up. Didn’t get a chance to check during day. One thing that’s a bit unusual is the pinball like effect it has when it hit a rail. Maybe it’s the flat front Audi body. The Porsche and McLaren don’t bounce.


I think I’m at the limit with the stock motor. The 9T pinion did bump speed, but seemed to lose something in The bendy parts. I may need to consider the PN motor again........

Two weeks till next practice. I’ll be giving the Jomurema it’s chance first.


What is the break in procedure for the PN motor? I’ve never actually had to do it before.
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Old 07-21-2019, 05:15 PM
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The kyosho motor tends to get quite hot on a 9t, and suffers out of the slow corners when geared so high. Focus really needs to be made to keep the speed up, as where the extra lower torque of the PN 70t can drive off the corner more directly rather than focusing solely on momentum for lap time. The ideal gearing for the kyosho motor would be between an 8t and 9t for maximum performance before thermals really become an issue.

the PN 70T really comes in to its own at taller gearing that a 10/44. 13/52 gearing is near perfect. The taller gearing also reduces the drag brake effect noticed. If you were running the PN on a 9t or lower, it is out of the ideal gearing range, and top end will be low as well as drag brake will be high compared to when geared between 10-11t 48p or 13-14t 64p.

as for break in, 30m @2.5v dipped in water, then a quick dip in alcohol or drenched in motor spray to clean out the water. Air dry/blow out... lube bearings with very light bearing oil, and a drop of comm lube (conductive contact lube). For the first battery pack, try not to yank the throttle, and just drive smooth... then clean again with spray, and add a drop of comm lube (repeat each other run, or every run for consistent results). Some say to break in the motor in alcohol, or motor spray, which can both work, but time will be different in each solution.
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:34 AM
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Hello All,
My first chassis is starting to get a bit tired with a number of screw holes not offering a lot of bite so, while not urgent, I am thinking of switching over to a new chassis. I am wondering if the PN chassis is worth the expense? I am fine with soldering so that is not as issue. This is for my SWB car which does occasionally go to the narrow set up in the front, is that an issue?

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Old 07-22-2019, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post



as for break in, 30m @2.5v dipped in water, then a quick dip in alcohol or drenched in motor spray to clean out the water. Air dry/blow out... lube bearings with very light bearing oil, and a drop of comm lube (conductive contact lube). For the first battery pack, try not to yank the throttle, and just drive smooth... then clean again with spray, and add a drop of comm lube (repeat each other run, or every run for consistent results). Some say to break in the motor in alcohol, or motor spray, which can both work, but time will be different in each solution.
Billy,

I have found that the brushes in these motors vary a lot. I had a motor that wore the brushes almost down to the arms in less then 20 minutes and then I have had brushes that barely look worn after 40 minutes. I think the most important thing you can do is check them every 5 minutes and see how they are doing, basically you want the brushes to conform to the commutator.

I personally use water, a flammable liquid would make me nervous in case there was a spark from the motor entering or leaving the liquid, chances are slim but better to be safe than sorry.

I then give the motor a quick squirt of motor cleaner or WD40 and some light sewing machine oil on the bearings. The Bachmann Conductive lube for the brushes absolutely works. I do not do it as often as EMU does but it seems to make the motor feel "free'er". I know you have had an issue with the feel of the PN70 but if you do what has been described it really makes a difference. The PN70 offers a lot more performance than the stock silver can, I don't think the top speed is all that different but the PN70 has gobs more torque and you can run a steeper gear and the motor does not get hot.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by LJH View Post
I have found that the brushes in these motors vary a lot. I had a motor that wore the brushes almost down to the arms in less then 20 minutes and then I have had brushes that barely look worn after 40 minutes. I think the most important thing you can do is check them every 5 minutes and see how they are doing, basically you want the brushes to conform to the commutator.

I personally use water, a flammable liquid would make me nervous in case there was a spark from the motor entering or leaving the liquid, chances are slim but better to be safe than sorry.

I then give the motor a quick squirt of motor cleaner or WD40 and some light sewing machine oil on the bearings. The Bachmann Conductive lube for the brushes absolutely works. I do not do it as often as EMU does but it seems to make the motor feel "free'er". I know you have had an issue with the feel of the PN70 but if you do what has been described it really makes a difference. The PN70 offers a lot more performance than the stock silver can, I don't think the top speed is all that different but the PN70 has gobs more torque and you can run a steeper gear and the motor does not get hot.

Cheers,
Jim
When the video gets posted youíll clearly see where Iím getting caught. Other then the PN motor, only other option is to find one that has a 3500kv motor already installed. But donít really want to buy another car with the GL F1 car coming in September
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:31 AM
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This may be a really bad idea on my part, but I decided to shorten the wires on my Evo 5600kv just so my McLaren 12c body would fit easier without me needing to adjust the wire bundle every time I install the body.

But has anyone done this on the MR03 EVOs without any loss negative effect? Basically cutting off the bullet connectors and soldering the wires together.

Or should I take the time to solder the bullets back onto the shorter wires?
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