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Old 08-31-2018, 09:34 AM
  #1921  
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
Someone asked about this on FB yesterday and the answer is no. With the shock and disc damper that come in the box, the GP is 98mm only.
I'm not sure how I missed it but there are clear differences between those three kits. It seems the later release blue version of the mr03 has the best out of the box features. It seems more adjustable and also the motors are different between all models, 5600, 8500 and the 12000 beast in the Gp version.

Does this mean that all kits can be modified with optional parts to any spec or are there limitations?

Are there any body/autoscale limits depending on the kit or are they compatible with all mr03 pro variations?
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Old 08-31-2018, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by GAMER View Post
I'm not sure how I missed it but there are clear differences between those three kits. It seems the later release blue version of the mr03 has the best out of the box features. It seems more adjustable and also the motors are different between all models, 5600, 8500 and the 12000 beast in the Gp version.

Does this mean that all kits can be modified with optional parts to any spec or are there limitations?

Are there any body/autoscale limits depending on the kit or are they compatible with all mr03 pro variations?
The ebay link above is an ASF brushed car. Nice find.

The MM2 is 98-102mm adjustable with a disc damper. It comes with the 5600kv motor and gear differential.

The Pro-color set will come with the classic MM motor mount which is 98mm as a minimum, it should also include an RM motormount for the shorter wheelbases. It does come with the 8500kv motor and ball differential.

GP has an aluminum mount that is more or less 98mm only with the constraint being the disc damper. 98mm is the shortest wheelbase that the mount is compatible with. It comes with a disc damper, ball differential and oil shock as well.

For racing purposes, the RM motormount is more difficult to drive fast. It also has a smaller setup window than MM. On throttle understeer with off throttle oversteer is a common issue with RM setups.

My opinion is that MM2 offers the most versatility, but being a $10-15 option part, you can get any of the chassis and make the change if needed. When I buy cars, I buy them for the main chassis and electronics. Then adapt them to the body that I will be using. All of the MR03 VE-Pro main chassis are the same besides color, the modular design allows you to adapt any chassis to a body by switching parts. The MM2 mount I feel offers the most versatility of any Kyosho stock motor mount that has ever been produced. I would highly recommend buying a couple of these MM2 mounts, then buy any pro cars that you can find at reasonable cost. You may also want to purchase an LM conversion set if you have any intention of using a 102mm LM body. That will come with the mount, disc damper and LM gear differential which is 4mm longer than a standard one.

All chassis will come with parts to change between narrow and wide front end configurations.

For beginner drivers, I actually recommend a gear differential and a slower motor. Ball differentials when built properly and tuned correctly are better, but done improperly, and they cause issues. Kyosho diffs the rings can slip, or it can be set to tight/loose which changes the handling attributes. The gear differential just needs one small modification to the left side hub (sand down the plastic where it touches the motormount bearing 1mm to free up the axle), and then its very consistent. With a slower motor, the advantages of a ball differential are not noticed.

for example, this is how I store my chassis' between races. Once I know what classes I will be racing, and what the surface is, I buildup the necessary configuration to the body that I plan to use.


Last edited by EMU; 08-31-2018 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 09-01-2018, 05:12 AM
  #1923  
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post
The ebay link above is an ASF brushed car. Nice find.

The MM2 is 98-102mm adjustable with a disc damper. It comes with the 5600kv motor and gear differential.

The Pro-color set will come with the classic MM motor mount which is 98mm as a minimum, it should also include an RM motormount for the shorter wheelbases. It does come with the 8500kv motor and ball differential.

GP has an aluminum mount that is more or less 98mm only with the constraint being the disc damper. 98mm is the shortest wheelbase that the mount is compatible with. It comes with a disc damper, ball differential and oil shock as well.

For racing purposes, the RM motormount is more difficult to drive fast. It also has a smaller setup window than MM. On throttle understeer with off throttle oversteer is a common issue with RM setups.

My opinion is that MM2 offers the most versatility, but being a $10-15 option part, you can get any of the chassis and make the change if needed. When I buy cars, I buy them for the main chassis and electronics. Then adapt them to the body that I will be using. All of the MR03 VE-Pro main chassis are the same besides color, the modular design allows you to adapt any chassis to a body by switching parts. The MM2 mount I feel offers the most versatility of any Kyosho stock motor mount that has ever been produced. I would highly recommend buying a couple of these MM2 mounts, then buy any pro cars that you can find at reasonable cost. You may also want to purchase an LM conversion set if you have any intention of using a 102mm LM body. That will come with the mount, disc damper and LM gear differential which is 4mm longer than a standard one.

All chassis will come with parts to change between narrow and wide front end configurations.

For beginner drivers, I actually recommend a gear differential and a slower motor. Ball differentials when built properly and tuned correctly are better, but done improperly, and they cause issues. Kyosho diffs the rings can slip, or it can be set to tight/loose which changes the handling attributes. The gear differential just needs one small modification to the left side hub (sand down the plastic where it touches the motormount bearing 1mm to free up the axle), and then its very consistent. With a slower motor, the advantages of a ball differential are not noticed.

for example, this is how I store my chassis' between races. Once I know what classes I will be racing, and what the surface is, I buildup the necessary configuration to the body that I plan to use.
Great info. Thank you.

The GP version seems a bit harder to find atm, even Kyosho Japan is out of stock. Are there any must have parts on the GP kit that are not available separately?

Regarding the MM2 kit, I'm pretty sure it comes with a ball diff too.

rc.kyosho.com/en/32782.html

So with the news of the incoming EVO kits, do you think there's any reason to even consider the older brushed MR03 kits?
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Old 09-01-2018, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by GAMER View Post
Great info. Thank you.

The GP version seems a bit harder to find atm, even Kyosho Japan is out of stock. Are there any must have parts on the GP kit that are not available separately?

Regarding the MM2 kit, I'm pretty sure it comes with a ball diff too.

rc.kyosho.com/en/32782.html

So with the news of the incoming EVO kits, do you think there's any reason to even consider the older brushed MR03 kits?
My opinion would be to look out for any ASF mr03, and pick them up when you find a great deal. Used or new. Only get a used one when there is considerable saving or you want the parts on it. Mostly, you are buying for the main chassis and electronics. With the modular system, it is easy to swap things around to fit the body you want to use. Since you are new, the mm2 rear pod is the best bang for the buck as far as rear end setup is concerned. Use a gear diff, bearings, and change the t-plate. Beyond that, it is tires. No other upgrades are needed until you master driving it. Shorten motor wires enough to reduce excess, but not too much that it binds up the rear suspension.

the GP kit was limited edition. Well, everything mini-z is limited edition... but, there were considerably less GP kits produced. The part that I like about it is the motor mount. 98mm aluminum R246 MML. It was sold separately, I ordered the last one that I could find along with the LM variant, and only received the LM with a refund for the MML.

MML is the best mount for motors that do not have mounting holes. Like the kyosho motors. But, doesn't work with motors like atomics that only have mounting holes, as the protrusions around the endbell that the standard mounts use (like the brushed 130) are removed with flat ends of the motors instead.




using kyosho motors, you either need to find the few mounts which don't use screws, use the plastic mounts, or drill and tap holes into the can.

Almost all of the aftermarket mounts use screws. There are benefits for both systems. Screws give an easier gear mesh adjustment, and allow more gear ratio options. But shims are a set and forget system that does not have fear of a screw coming loose or gear mesh moving after a wreck.

the GP oil shock isn't worth using. It has such limited Z axis travel, which causes binding. This comes with the r246 damper system separately. They also make an LM variant of the damper.

You can see in the pic below the r246 LM configuration with a 5600kv eco motor. I removed the oil shock and replaced it with a standard one. Here is an example of an upgraded part not being as good as the standard one in the kit. With a disc damper, an oil shock is not necessary, since the damper is already dampening the rear end, you just use the top spring to support the rear end depending on t-plate choice. Carbon t-plates don't need a top shock most of the time, while frp do.

Last edited by EMU; 09-01-2018 at 05:51 AM.
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Old 09-02-2018, 05:58 AM
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Great, thank you. I'm about to get some kits on that advice and will look out for the above mentioned parts.

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Old 09-02-2018, 10:44 PM
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Hi, just got my first mini z, mr03 sport. Wondering what shore are stock tires? Also what size of wheel bearings I should get?
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Old 09-03-2018, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by roger999 View Post
Hi, just got my first mini z, mr03 sport. Wondering what shore are stock tires? Also what size of wheel bearings I should get?
I believe that the stock tires are 40 front 30 rear.

For bearings, 4x 2x6x2.5mm, 3x 3x6x2.5mm. Here is a quality affordable bearing source. Shipping in US is $2 for USPS first class, $10 for the bearings.
Boca Bearings for MR03
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU View Post
I believe that the stock tires are 40 front 30 rear.

For bearings, 4x 2x6x2.5mm, 3x 3x6x2.5mm. Here is a quality affordable bearing source. Shipping in US is $2 for USPS first class, $10 for the bearings.
Boca Bearings for MR03
Great! Thanks!
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Old 09-04-2018, 04:52 AM
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Hello All,
Got some good time in on the Mini-Z this weekend, the car was hooked up and I am becoming more consistent. I tried going from the yellow to the white front springs but that just did not work so back to the yellows. I do have a question on tires, in the Kyosho degree nomenclature what would you consider the PN Soft Radials? I am running the Kyosho 20* fronts, which are actually showing significant wear, and the PN radial rears. I did order a set of Kyosho Radial 10* rears but with the car running like it is I did not change out as of yet.

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Old 09-04-2018, 02:12 PM
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It is really difficult to compare one companies tire to another. The compound is very different, and depending on the surface it can have a different level of traction.

pn soft would probably be similar to kyosho 20. PN rubber in my experience does not handle as many heat cycles as kyosho, but at the peak it has more traction.

I typically stick with kyosho rubber due to it's consistency and shelf life. Pn rubber tends to be a better race compound where maximum traction for a shorter period of time is required.

in my experience, when pn rubber overheats, it will change the grip characteristics, and drop off will be noticed even after it has cooled, even with tread life. With that said, I haven't used much of their newest batches of tire.
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Old 09-04-2018, 02:17 PM
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i would go for whatever others use at the track.
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bd007 View Post
i would go for whatever others use at the track.
i run at a very exclusive track.....LOL.

I tried the 10* radials this evening and they did not work with the 20* f outs at all so I went back to the PNís and for some reason they were not happy at all either. It is so weird how over the weekend the car was hooked up and today nothing.

Cheers,
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LJH View Post


i run at a very exclusive track.....LOL.

I tried the 10* radials this evening and they did not work with the 20* f outs at all so I went back to the PN’s and for some reason they were not happy at all either. It is so weird how over the weekend the car was hooked up and today nothing.

Cheers,
jim
sometimes it’s just the driver. There have been some nights I’ve been clicking off laps like nothing. Then nights I can’t stay off the rail. I’ll be just off
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Old 09-04-2018, 07:59 PM
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Temperature and humidity ban also effect the traction. Different tires also react differently to these variables as well.

sometimes it can take a while to get in the groove, especially when you don't have a permanent track. Laying down rubber is important for consistent traction.

when I would go to big events, the traction would change constantly depending on a lot of different variables. Temperature and humidity, how many racers currently on track, what tires other racers were using and how their rubber acted with mine. Sometimes one person running a different compound could make you need to change compounds because it didn't agree with what you are running. This is one reason why as posted above, see what other people are using, and use similar compounds. The fact that you tried three 10d kyosho may have changed the way your other tires worked on the track.
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Old 09-04-2018, 11:01 PM
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Where you guys getting tires?
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