7769LikesKyosho Mini-Z Series
08-29-2018, 06:53 AM
#1906
mid there a translator setting for it?
edit. Found one.
Red RC ? RC Car News » Kyosho Mini-Z MR-03 Evo ? Coming soon
Back from Maine, Awesome week and even survived a few rides up and down the very steep gangway to the dock and onto the boat....So good to be on a boat again.
The little man had his first day of school today so I was up early. I cleaned the kitchen floor and did a few laps. Amazing just how rusty I am without any practice in 10 days. The better half is in the city and has a dinner after work so I am thinking I can get a bunch of laps in this evening.
On another note my brother in law's brother in law is also a RC junkie, he did a bunch of pan car racing back in the 80's and '90's including some 1:8 scale Nitro. He was involved in a very scary full scale racing accident a couple years back up at Limerock during a vintage race. He caught a curb in his Alfa Giulia and had to be 10' in the air upside down and landed on his roof. Since then he has stopped racing but has gotten back into RC heavily. Long story longer I was talking to him about the Mini-Z's and he got interested. He was talking to his LHS where he is a VERY good customer and the owner said they had a RCP track and no longer use it and asked if he wanted it....for free. Not exactly sure what he got but there are A LOT of boxes of track and rails. Now we just have to figure out where we are going to set this up.
Cheers,
Jim
08-29-2018, 07:03 AM
#1907
Tech Prophet
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Box stock racing is so good. If these do have a disc damper, that will really help the out of box performance. Now only the MM2 and LM come standard with one. Then it's just bearings, t-plate nuts and tires to get a race ready stock car. We permit those upgrades for durability.
these cars do not need to be upgraded heavily like people do to perform. The biggest thing holding them back currently is the proprietary electronics. When people go to a track and ask what the cost of entry it's, and are told $200 for the rtr, then $250-350 for a radio and replacement electronics, it's a quick turn around out the door. With the option to use a radio that you may already have, or can use with other scales, it's a game changer.
My custom chassis uses a sanwa receiver, PN esc and servo controller. It's not a plug and play setup. Getting a plug and play way to do it in an mr03, means that all they really need to do now is convert the power source to lithium and develop slower motors for that power source. Many racers from other scales don't want to deal with nimh. Lithium is so much more consistent performance, but the current motors are simply too fast. We need a 2300kv motor.
these cars do not need to be upgraded heavily like people do to perform. The biggest thing holding them back currently is the proprietary electronics. When people go to a track and ask what the cost of entry it's, and are told $200 for the rtr, then $250-350 for a radio and replacement electronics, it's a quick turn around out the door. With the option to use a radio that you may already have, or can use with other scales, it's a game changer.
My custom chassis uses a sanwa receiver, PN esc and servo controller. It's not a plug and play setup. Getting a plug and play way to do it in an mr03, means that all they really need to do now is convert the power source to lithium and develop slower motors for that power source. Many racers from other scales don't want to deal with nimh. Lithium is so much more consistent performance, but the current motors are simply too fast. We need a 2300kv motor.
Decided to give another try, my own basement mini96 track. And I’m now decent with stock. But last year they had no others running stock. Now few seem interested. The group wants it. So will see
I did recently buy one of the Competitors. 1s with brushed.
08-29-2018, 07:57 PM
#1908
Box stock racing is so good. If these do have a disc damper, that will really help the out of box performance. Now only the MM2 and LM come standard with one. Then it's just bearings, t-plate nuts and tires to get a race ready stock car. We permit those upgrades for durability.
When I put the product info through a translator, it made it sound like these cars will be able to run both brushed and brushless motors. You'll be able to change this using ICS.
I read somewhere that they'll be out in December. I'm guessing they'll be out in time for the holidays.
I was a bit concerned that the separate receiver would mean much higher costs, but the current MR-03VE PRO costs 25000 yen in japan. The new cars will cost 22,000 yen and the receivers 4500 yen so its not much higher. Will have to wait to see what Kyosho America charges though.
08-29-2018, 08:29 PM
#1909
That pricing looks good. I am interested with how they are handling the connection between the esc and rx. Not sure there is enough height for a micro connector, might need to mount it sideways.
it's hard to tell if there will be a change to the main chassis, or if it it's just a top deck change.
the ability to run both brushless and brushed motors is great. Some people really don't like brushless, and don't like sports due to the lower current and steering resolution. Hunting out asf brushed boards and transmitters can be a real pain.
I wonder if the esc will have 5v bec, to be compatible with 2S lipo. The department on AAA NIMH is really the only thing that is keeping the mini-z "dated" compared to the other cars in the scale. Slow motors are needed, and no brushed motor that I have tried runs well on 2S lipo for long periods of time.
it's hard to tell if there will be a change to the main chassis, or if it it's just a top deck change.
the ability to run both brushless and brushed motors is great. Some people really don't like brushless, and don't like sports due to the lower current and steering resolution. Hunting out asf brushed boards and transmitters can be a real pain.
I wonder if the esc will have 5v bec, to be compatible with 2S lipo. The department on AAA NIMH is really the only thing that is keeping the mini-z "dated" compared to the other cars in the scale. Slow motors are needed, and no brushed motor that I have tried runs well on 2S lipo for long periods of time.
08-30-2018, 04:37 AM
#1910
Tech Apprentice
Hey guys,
I'd like to buy some Mini Z kits with the intention of setting up a Kyosho/RCP track at a later stage. The choices in kits are not influenced by what others race locally (there's no such scene here) or cost etc.
These items are for personal use along with friends and family. It's also something I always wanted to get into and have a thing for smaller scale RC. Unfortunately I've left it quite late just as I did with the dNano (spent many months hunting down kits and parts a couple years back for those awesome micros) .
After a lot of reading, I'm still not 100% sure what exactly I want. There's so many different versions and information. Putting aside the latest breaking news about the Evo model, what do you suggest in regards to the following?
Brushed version: Many experienced users here have continually posted in support of a brushed Mini Z for either stock racing or new racers. Is this something that I should still consider? If so which kit should I try to track down? Is it the MR03 chassis kits prior to the VE (only interested in brand new kits... I know they will be hard to find from my dNano experience).
Brushless version: From what I can gather, I should be looking for one of the MR03 VE Pro kits. I've narrowed it down to the following. Is the GP version the 'best'?
MR-03VE PRO GP Limited Chassis Set 32880
MR-03VE PRO 02 Color Limited Set W-MM) 32783
MR-03VE PRO w/MM2motormount 32782
Are there any other specific kits I should look for? I'd very much appreciate any advice from anyone that has experienced the Mini Z scene and has collected information over the years.
PS: I'm intending to use a Kyosho EX6-R with all the Mini Zs.
I'd like to buy some Mini Z kits with the intention of setting up a Kyosho/RCP track at a later stage. The choices in kits are not influenced by what others race locally (there's no such scene here) or cost etc.
These items are for personal use along with friends and family. It's also something I always wanted to get into and have a thing for smaller scale RC. Unfortunately I've left it quite late just as I did with the dNano (spent many months hunting down kits and parts a couple years back for those awesome micros) .
After a lot of reading, I'm still not 100% sure what exactly I want. There's so many different versions and information. Putting aside the latest breaking news about the Evo model, what do you suggest in regards to the following?
Brushed version: Many experienced users here have continually posted in support of a brushed Mini Z for either stock racing or new racers. Is this something that I should still consider? If so which kit should I try to track down? Is it the MR03 chassis kits prior to the VE (only interested in brand new kits... I know they will be hard to find from my dNano experience).
Brushless version: From what I can gather, I should be looking for one of the MR03 VE Pro kits. I've narrowed it down to the following. Is the GP version the 'best'?
MR-03VE PRO GP Limited Chassis Set 32880
MR-03VE PRO 02 Color Limited Set W-MM) 32783
MR-03VE PRO w/MM2motormount 32782
Are there any other specific kits I should look for? I'd very much appreciate any advice from anyone that has experienced the Mini Z scene and has collected information over the years.
PS: I'm intending to use a Kyosho EX6-R with all the Mini Zs.
08-30-2018, 05:30 AM
#1911
The ex6-r is an MHS and ASF band radio. Any version of the ASF brushed electronics are compatible with it. These will be hard to come by new, but replacement ASF electronics cost around $50 if interested in a transplant approach.
The VE GP chassis set is the best, however the motor is ballistic. This chassis set is not permitted in most stock racing classes even with a motor change. If setting up a stock class for racing, I would opt for the MM2 variant. Or you could get the standard model and upgrade the car with the MM2 mount and damper set inexpensively
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Motor-case-setMM2typefor-MR-03_p_24597.html
the 5600kv eco motor will be faster than the stock brushed motor, so that is something to take into consideration for class structure. The 3500kv PN or atomic motors are similar in performance to the stock brushed motor. Or the pn50t or x-speed are close to the 5600kv motor.
Any of the sports, RWD or FWD models do not support ASF/MHS bands and are incompatible with your transmitter.
I grabbed a new VE PRO chassis/body set on Amazon for around $120 on Amazon a few weeks ago. Another basically new one on ebay for $130. If you search you can often find good deals. I haven't seen any new brushed ASF mr03 cars anywhere. I would also upgrade the rear end on any if you do go that route. The damper calms the car so much.
My personal opinion is to go with brushless. Although motors are more expensive, they run more consistent and have more runtime. However, if most of the racers will be using brushed cars, I would steer in that direction to have a level playing field.
for the stock class that we race, I have run brushed and brushless with a 3500kv and they are really close in performance that the wheelbase of the setup is more of the deciding factor with track layout than whether it is brushed or brushless. Brushed motors run hot, brushless don't.
where are you racing out of?
The VE GP chassis set is the best, however the motor is ballistic. This chassis set is not permitted in most stock racing classes even with a motor change. If setting up a stock class for racing, I would opt for the MM2 variant. Or you could get the standard model and upgrade the car with the MM2 mount and damper set inexpensively
http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/Motor-case-setMM2typefor-MR-03_p_24597.html
the 5600kv eco motor will be faster than the stock brushed motor, so that is something to take into consideration for class structure. The 3500kv PN or atomic motors are similar in performance to the stock brushed motor. Or the pn50t or x-speed are close to the 5600kv motor.
Any of the sports, RWD or FWD models do not support ASF/MHS bands and are incompatible with your transmitter.
I grabbed a new VE PRO chassis/body set on Amazon for around $120 on Amazon a few weeks ago. Another basically new one on ebay for $130. If you search you can often find good deals. I haven't seen any new brushed ASF mr03 cars anywhere. I would also upgrade the rear end on any if you do go that route. The damper calms the car so much.
My personal opinion is to go with brushless. Although motors are more expensive, they run more consistent and have more runtime. However, if most of the racers will be using brushed cars, I would steer in that direction to have a level playing field.
for the stock class that we race, I have run brushed and brushless with a 3500kv and they are really close in performance that the wheelbase of the setup is more of the deciding factor with track layout than whether it is brushed or brushless. Brushed motors run hot, brushless don't.
where are you racing out of?
08-30-2018, 12:31 PM
#1912
If you're going to go brushed, I would go with the newer RWD models versus the Sports/Sports 2 ones. They come with bearings and the steering is better on them.
08-30-2018, 06:23 PM
#1913
If you're looking to buy now before the new cars come out in a few months, be aware that the PRO 02 is the only one that Kyosho currently offers. From what I can gather, the GP and MM2 are discontinued. The PRO 02 is still a great car if you don't mind the blue plastic pieces.
If you're going to go brushed, I would go with the newer RWD models versus the Sports/Sports 2 ones. They come with bearings and the steering is better on them.
If you're going to go brushed, I would go with the newer RWD models versus the Sports/Sports 2 ones. They come with bearings and the steering is better on them.
08-30-2018, 08:14 PM
#1915
Tech Apprentice
Originally Posted by EMU
The VE GP chassis set is the best, however the motor is ballistic. This chassis set is not permitted in most stock racing classes even with a motor change. If setting up a stock class for racing, I would opt for the MM2 variant. Or you could get the standard model and upgrade the car with the MM2 mount and damper set inexpensively
Originally Posted by EMU
Any of the sports, RWD or FWD models do not support ASF/MHS bands and are incompatible with your transmitter.
I haven't seen any new brushed ASF mr03 cars anywhere. I would also upgrade the rear end on any if you do go that route. The damper calms the car so much.
I haven't seen any new brushed ASF mr03 cars anywhere. I would also upgrade the rear end on any if you do go that route. The damper calms the car so much.
h**ps://ww3.ebay.com/itm/Kyosho-Mini-Z-MR-03N-RM-TOYOTA-86-32717PW/221950816846
I can't seem to post the direct link here but the item number is below.
Ebay item number 221950816846
08-30-2018, 08:47 PM
#1916
Tech Apprentice
If you're looking to buy now before the new cars come out in a few months, be aware that the PRO 02 is the only one that Kyosho currently offers. From what I can gather, the GP and MM2 are discontinued. The PRO 02 is still a great car if you don't mind the blue plastic pieces.
If you're going to go brushed, I would go with the newer RWD models versus the Sports/Sports 2 ones. They come with bearings and the steering is better on them.
If you're going to go brushed, I would go with the newer RWD models versus the Sports/Sports 2 ones. They come with bearings and the steering is better on them.
For example, what are the specific differences between these two? Is it just the mount and damper set on the 32782, while the newer blue version has the nostalgic colour pieces and a gyro?
MR-03VE PRO 02 Color Limited Set W-MM) 32783
MR-03VE PRO w/MM2motormount 32782
Also in regards to the MR-03VE PRO GP Limited Chassis Set 32880, the Kyosho sites says in the technical specs the following.
■Length
117.7mm
■Wheelbase
98.0mm(LL)
While the other two models have these listed specs.
■Length: 120-128mm
■Wheelbase: 94.0-102mm（94, 98, 102）
■Length 124-133mm (MM chassis:125-133mm, RM chassis:124-132mm)
■Wheelbase 86-106mm(86,90,94,98,102,106)
Are all three equally adjustable?
I'm thinking that GP version's motor will be too much for a beginner and would like to buy it now but not start with it immediately. Would it be better to get one of the other two Pro VE kits first? I don't mind buying multiple kits because they will all be used for testing and also passed on to family/friends for racing together.
08-31-2018, 05:40 AM
#1917
Hey Guys,
So, I had a chance to run my car the other night but had an issue. I swept the floor and then "swiftered" it like I always do but I could not get the rear tires to hook up for the life of me. I mean it was worse then when I originally tried to run with the stock tires, I was lucky to get in a 5.7 second lap. It has been very hot and humid here so we have been running the AC none stop so I wonder if that has something to do with it. I did notice that it seems like the PN radials have swelled and they are now hanging off the outside of the wheel by MM or so, there is such a marked difference in performance from before my vacation that I wonder if I did something to the tires cleaning them. I have ordered a set of Kyosho 10* radials to try out to see if that helps.
While I was looking for tires I came across a Ferrari 575GTC body NIP for $40 shipped. I am not a huge Ferrari fan but I have always liked their GT cars especially the 550/575 series cars.
My friend who scored the RCP track picked it up yesterday.......There is a very decent amount of track. Since neither one of us have space for a permanent full size track he asked me if I want some to build a small track at my house as well. The wife will not be happy with this but I am going to take him up on it. At some point he wants to take an inventory and see what all is there and see what kind of track can be built. When that happens I think a weekend get together of "local" mini-z folks is in order to assemble and run on a decent size track.....I know I would love that.
Cheers,
Jim
So, I had a chance to run my car the other night but had an issue. I swept the floor and then "swiftered" it like I always do but I could not get the rear tires to hook up for the life of me. I mean it was worse then when I originally tried to run with the stock tires, I was lucky to get in a 5.7 second lap. It has been very hot and humid here so we have been running the AC none stop so I wonder if that has something to do with it. I did notice that it seems like the PN radials have swelled and they are now hanging off the outside of the wheel by MM or so, there is such a marked difference in performance from before my vacation that I wonder if I did something to the tires cleaning them. I have ordered a set of Kyosho 10* radials to try out to see if that helps.
While I was looking for tires I came across a Ferrari 575GTC body NIP for $40 shipped. I am not a huge Ferrari fan but I have always liked their GT cars especially the 550/575 series cars.
My friend who scored the RCP track picked it up yesterday.......There is a very decent amount of track. Since neither one of us have space for a permanent full size track he asked me if I want some to build a small track at my house as well. The wife will not be happy with this but I am going to take him up on it. At some point he wants to take an inventory and see what all is there and see what kind of track can be built. When that happens I think a weekend get together of "local" mini-z folks is in order to assemble and run on a decent size track.....I know I would love that.
Cheers,
Jim
08-31-2018, 06:21 AM
#1918
The 575 pasta wagon is a 94mm wheelbase body. They were quite good in their day. That particular body had some really odd wheel offset's as well. If you have the correct motor pod you should be able to set up a Mid motor chassis at 94mm. I believe the mm2 pod will accomplish the change.
What have you been using to clean the tires? Virtually anything petroleum based will affect the tires. Some more so than others. Some to a greater extent than others.
What have you been using to clean the tires? Virtually anything petroleum based will affect the tires. Some more so than others. Some to a greater extent than others.
08-31-2018, 08:12 AM
#1919
Also in regards to the MR-03VE PRO GP Limited Chassis Set 32880, the Kyosho sites says in the technical specs the following.
■Length
117.7mm
■Wheelbase
98.0mm(LL)
While the other two models have these listed specs.
■Length: 120-128mm
■Wheelbase: 94.0-102mm（94, 98, 102）
■Length 124-133mm (MM chassis:125-133mm, RM chassis:124-132mm)
■Wheelbase 86-106mm(86,90,94,98,102,106)
Are all three equally adjustable?
■Length
117.7mm
■Wheelbase
98.0mm(LL)
While the other two models have these listed specs.
■Length: 120-128mm
■Wheelbase: 94.0-102mm（94, 98, 102）
■Length 124-133mm (MM chassis:125-133mm, RM chassis:124-132mm)
■Wheelbase 86-106mm(86,90,94,98,102,106)
Are all three equally adjustable?
08-31-2018, 08:20 AM
#1920
The 575 pasta wagon is a 94mm wheelbase body. They were quite good in their day. That particular body had some really odd wheel offset's as well. If you have the correct motor pod you should be able to set up a Mid motor chassis at 94mm. I believe the mm2 pod will accomplish the change.
What have you been using to clean the tires? Virtually anything petroleum based will affect the tires. Some more so than others. Some to a greater extent than others.
What have you been using to clean the tires? Virtually anything petroleum based will affect the tires. Some more so than others. Some to a greater extent than others.
As for cleaning the tires I just use Softsoap Antibacterial liquid soap on a wet paper towel, I figured this would be gentle on the tires and worked really well for weeks.
So, work is slow to say the least today and I was thinking what could have happened to the tires or the floor. The only thing that changed was that we were out of paper towels the other night and I used a paper napkin. I took the wheels off and washed them thoroughly using the scotchbrite side of a dish sponge and the same soap. Low and behold I am back up to speed. There must be something in the napkins that got on the tire making them very slick.
Cheers,
Jim