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Kyosho Mini-Z Series

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Old 07-06-2018, 06:15 AM
  #1756  
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Hello All,
I received the R8 yesterday and it is pretty darn well done. As mentioned the stock tires do not offer a lot of traction on hardwood floors. I also noted that the stock front springs seem rock hard, is that just me or are they? Being that the I am driving on a low traction surface I ordered a front spring assortment and a #3 T-Bar to try to soften up the suspension a bit and hopefully get some more traction along with the softer tires.

With that said I am pretty impressed with how smooth and direct the steering is and how fast it goes stock. I am really hoping I can make it work on the wood floors.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-06-2018, 06:38 AM
  #1757  
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If you use the Kyosho standard or long front springs the reds are the ones to use although the stock springs are pretty soft. The #3 T-plate will help steering as well. Tuning note. Anything that you do to the rear suspension effects steering so be careful with adjustments.
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Old 07-06-2018, 11:06 AM
  #1758  
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The Opus charger Mike mentioned is by far the best value charger you can get for mini-z. You need nothing more than that for AAA cells. I've been using eneloop cells lately, and they offer very consistent performance with little needed maintenance like standard AAA. On a racing circuit, they will be a little down on punch with a stock motor, but hardly noticeable when driving by yourself.

the mini-96 is hands down the best training you can have for these cars. I couldn't recommend it more for a newer driver. Keep the setup simple, the stock front end works well, even the stock springs. If using a stock motor, bearings, locking wheel nuts, t-plate and a disc damper will transform the car.

hardwood floors are tough, foam rear tires help the dust pickup and loss of rear grip. Keep away from silicone tires period. They leave a slime everywhere they go, which makes things slippery for everything else. Especially people wearing socks...

time to rebuild some cars...
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:42 AM
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Hello All,
I got to play with the R8 a bit this weekend. The hardwood floors are a bit tricky to say the least. It feel like I am driving a full scale R8 with slicks in the rain and no nanny controls :-). Every couple of minutes I clean the tires and that helps for a bit. With that said driving like this is teaching me to be gentle on the throttle and it is entertaining running some circuits in the kitchen, every now and then I will pull off a pretty perfect 4 wheel slide which is totally cool. I did order sticker tires and some suspension stuff and hope that helps a bit.

I also received the Opus charger. It is funny to be charging something other the lithium's, I have not done that in 15 years. That is a cool little charger, it is neat to see the individual cell performance. I just bought some cheap 800mah Amazon cells, two cells (out of 8) were not that happy at first but a couple cycles on the opus got them in line with the others.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-09-2018, 08:30 AM
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You will soon see that speed is not your friend. Once you get some softer tires just use them on the rear for a while. That way the car will have a bit of a push built in so you have to lift or feather the throttle to get it to turn in. Then you can pick it back up and have some fun with loose off.
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:37 AM
  #1761  
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The post man showed up right before lunch with the goodies. I immediately threw the new tires on, what a difference. As was mentioned the front has A LOT of steering which I dialed back, I may try the stock front tires and see how they work out because right now if you go deep into a turn and lift off the throttle the car pivots hard.

I was running for 10 minutes and then she just stopped and the throttle did nothing but the steering was still working. I was playing with it and the motor was intermittent. I am looking around trying to find the issue and then I saw it. The negative motor lead wire broke at the solder joint on the tab that screws into the board, annoying. I will say that the wire Kyosho uses is pretty darn hard. I have to try to get into my office to see if I have any skinny silicon wire in there and solder that up.

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Jim
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Old 07-09-2018, 01:05 PM
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Be very careful with the connections at the board. Between them there is a very small appendage that if the eyelet comes in contact with when the power is on will result in all the smoke being released from the board thereby rendering it useless. There is likely a small square yellowish device that is soldered in line with the motor at the motor end. It is a thermal protector and as you have seen it will thermally shut down motor operation. The motor can handle the heat however the plastic motor pod can't and will quickly crystalize and become very brittle. Learn how to change gears with the stock bits and make sure you are running the 6T pinion. Get a can of Performance Plus.3 motor spray. Use nothing else. Ever. Period. A quick spritz on the hot motor will rapidly cool it without causing further embrilltlment to the plastic or paint damage to the body. No other product that I know of works as effectively. Get a bottle of Bachman EZ lube for the motor bushings. it is OK to get a little in the motor but hang on if you do. It's like adding a couple more batteries. Never, NEVER use comm drops as they do nothing but gum up the motor.

Since you will likely be disassembling and reassembling different parts of the car frequently and since all the screws are self tapping with a metric head the proper tools are extremely important. Look for a good "0" and "00" Phillips head screw driver from a company like Wiha. You will be glad you did. Also teach yourself whenever you reinstall or replace a screw to rotate the screw to the left until you feel it or even hear it drop into the original threads so you don't cut a new set and weaken the gripping power of the screw/hole union. There are many little tricks and methods that will save you from doing self inflicted damage which will allow you to buy more goodies instead of replacing Kyosho hard parts that hold all the bling together.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:21 PM
  #1763  
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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Be very careful with the connections at the board. Between them there is a very small appendage that if the eyelet comes in contact with when the power is on will result in all the smoke being released from the board thereby rendering it useless. There is likely a small square yellowish device that is soldered in line with the motor at the motor end. It is a thermal protector and as you have seen it will thermally shut down motor operation. The motor can handle the heat however the plastic motor pod can't and will quickly crystalize and become very brittle. Learn how to change gears with the stock bits and make sure you are running the 6T pinion. Get a can of Performance Plus.3 motor spray. Use nothing else. Ever. Period. A quick spritz on the hot motor will rapidly cool it without causing further embrilltlment to the plastic or paint damage to the body. No other product that I know of works as effectively. Get a bottle of Bachman EZ lube for the motor bushings. it is OK to get a little in the motor but hang on if you do. It's like adding a couple more batteries. Never, NEVER use comm drops as they do nothing but gum up the motor.

Since you will likely be disassembling and reassembling different parts of the car frequently and since all the screws are self tapping with a metric head the proper tools are extremely important. Look for a good "0" and "00" Phillips head screw driver from a company like Wiha. You will be glad you did. Also teach yourself whenever you reinstall or replace a screw to rotate the screw to the left until you feel it or even hear it drop into the original threads so you don't cut a new set and weaken the gripping power of the screw/hole union. There are many little tricks and methods that will save you from doing self inflicted damage which will allow you to buy more goodies instead of replacing Kyosho hard parts that hold all the bling together.
Thanks for the tips. On the motor wire the wire itself cracked itself. At least on my chassis there is a plastic divider between the + and - motor leads going into the board so it would be hard to get the leads to touch each other but thanks for the note...I have let the magic smoke out on more then one occasion doing stupid stuff like that. I just re-soldered the motor wire to the eyelet and all is good.

Also thanks for the tip on the screws, I have owned a number of Tamiya plastic tub cars and try to be gentle on the threads by "finding" the start of the threads before screwing the fastener in. As for the screws, I have would think that they are JIS? I am using a JIS screw driver and it seems to fit the screw head well.

I checked the pinion and I am running the 6T, I just ran the car for 10 minutes and the motor passed the blister on the lip test...LOL. actually the motor was just slightly warm, I am guess with my small "circuit" and very low traction the motor is not being worked hard. I have 20 minutes (timed) on this pack with no indication of the cells going flat, I will run it for another 10 minutes and then see how many Mah I put back in to get an idea of amp draw.

Later on I am going to try the stock front tires, the car has A LOT of steering which unsettles the rear pretty easily.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:45 PM
  #1764  
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On hardwood amp draw will be minimal. To control throttle punch just charge the batteries at a lower rate. Charge them at 350 or500MAH. This will knock some punch off but will extend run time to the point that you will get tired before the car does.

The little gizmo I mentioned between the motor wire connection points is out of sight below that little plastic tit Just be cautious. The soft front tires will create a need to reduce the dual rate to compensate. This will lead to a lot of difficulty steering back to the apex if you over drive it. Go with the harder tire and more mechanical steering. It should be just like driving on the street. Not every turn you make is a full lock turn but it's there if you need it.
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Old 07-09-2018, 10:50 PM
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The wires on the stock motor are garbage and break at the solder joints all the time. If you end up upgrading to something like a 50T X Speed, the wires are softer and don't break nearly as much.
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Old 07-16-2018, 07:05 AM
  #1766  
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Hello All,
So from day one my MR-03 RWD had a tendency to be a bit intermittent with the throttle but would always get going pretty quickly by spinning the drive wheels, the steering always worked. When I found the motor wire had broken I figured that was the issue but it continued to do so after the repair. Then late last week I went to run it and no go at all. I tried resetting the transmitter and re-binding and still no go. My multimeter is on the boat so I cannot check to see if the issue is with the board or the motor but wondering if any of you have run into the issue.

I did send a note to Kyosho America, who I bought it from, and they have been responsive and are sending me a label to ship it back. I would prefer to see if there was a fix I could execute myself but I am guessing it will be going back for them to have a look at.

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Jim
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:49 AM
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Don't ever be afraid of shipping something back to Kyosho. They have a quick turnaround and will likely send you a new unit so make sure that you don't have anything extra on the chassis. Like updated tires. just put it back to how it was when you unboxed it.

Now that you have an escape plan, check and make sure that the motor wires are good and snug at the connection point to the board. Also make sure the board connection from the chassis are really snug as well. Those two screws are different from the rest in that it requires either a "00" or "000" Phillips to fit the heads correctly. Looking at the chassis from the rear these screws can be found at both top corners of the chassis.
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Old 07-16-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mleemor60 View Post
Don't ever be afraid of shipping something back to Kyosho. They have a quick turnaround and will likely send you a new unit so make sure that you don't have anything extra on the chassis. Like updated tires. just put it back to how it was when you unboxed it.

Now that you have an escape plan, check and make sure that the motor wires are good and snug at the connection point to the board. Also make sure the board connection from the chassis are really snug as well. Those two screws are different from the rest in that it requires either a "00" or "000" Phillips to fit the heads correctly. Looking at the chassis from the rear these screws can be found at both top corners of the chassis.
Good to hear about Kyosho, I will say they have been super responsive. Yesterday, I took all the the aftermarket goodies should I am good to go.

I check all the terminals and everything seems OK, I wish I had my multimeter to see if the board or the motor is the culprit.

Thanks again.

Cheers,
Jim
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Old 07-16-2018, 03:32 PM
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It doesn't sound like the board. if you can enlist another hand to work the throttle while you wiggle motor wires at the motor end. After that or before, spray the motor thoroughly with the cleaner I mentioned several post ago. With the stock motors a spritz of motor spray after each use will go a long way toward longevity as well as trouble free operation.
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Old 07-16-2018, 04:53 PM
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Motor spray in the stock motors is a must... at least once per day use, and a little lube on the bushings. Never use comm drops.

you can test the motor by removing the wires from the chassis, and bridging them on a single charged aaa cell tp ensure that it works properly.

if the motor works, screw back into the chassis and double check the connections. If the motor does not work, then the large "fuse" may be causing issues. I remove it from all of my stock motors by default.
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