maximebeauvais

iTrader: (7)

ok here you go:

We have 2 onroad tracks at our club the big (80X35) and the small (30X30)

1) My pro brush car (for the big track)
-motek chassis
-motek carbon fiber shaft
-jwerk front and rear suspension bloc (hub)
-atomic drive shaft front and rear
-xray ball diff front and rear
-6 degre suspension arm in front
-gpm alloy front bumber
-hpi81mg servo
-xray servo saver
-atomic red spring front
-atomic blue spring rear
-beast raptor motor
-atomic micro fan
-mc230cr futaba ESC
-6 cells pack (1100, 1200, 1400)
-xxl novak receiver
-Ellegi 50 or TRC orange or HPI hard tire in front
-Ellegi 40-45 or TRC purple tire rear
-righ now one of Homer body

2) My pro brushless (for the big track)
-penguin chassis
-carbon fiber shaft
-xray front and rear suspension bloc (hub)
-xray drive shaft front and rear
-xray ball diff front and rear
-6 degre suspension arm in front
-gpm alloy front bumber
-hpi81mg servo
-atomic servo saver
-atomic blue spring front
-atomic blue spring rear
-6800 mamba motor
-mamba ESC
-6 cells packs (1100, 1200, 1400)
-xxl novak receiver
-Ellegi 50 or TRC orange or HPI hard tire in front
-Ellegi 40-45 or TRC purple tire rear
-Mazda 6 body (just need to paint the new protoform stratus 3.0 body)

3)My stock car(small track)
-xray graphit chassis
-carbon fiber shaft
-6 degre suspension arm in front
-hpi81mg servo
-xray servo saver
-180 hpi motor
-heat sink
-spy novak ESC
-xxl novak receiver
-5 cells pack (750, 1100, 1200)
-HPI rubber tire 4712 front
-HPI rubber tire 4719 rearr
-Mazda 6 body (just need to paint the new protoform stratus 3.0 body)

I think I forgot to say that all my car are setup very good and I really like to setup. So if you are running on carpet you should take a look at my setup as a basis. The hard foam tire is a must. if you don't use hard foam tire then you will traction roll all the time. A sway bar could elimitate this situation (I have one but never had a change to use it).

As for speed, the 2 pro car are pretty similar. Those baby are very fast and i will say that they are faster then a regular stock 1/10 car!!! However, in the infield the 1/10 have a better handling then my 1/18.

imjonah

I have been racing 1/10 Electric TC (XXX-S) I wanted experiment with 1/18th I have and M18 with an aftermarket chassis, I have a brand new Trinity monster moter, I bought a spring set, adjustable turn buckles, and shocks, also some 6 degree front ends. I got a new 6 cell battery on the way and set of foam tires on the way.

The parking lot surface is a bit rough but they do blow it off and lay down sugar water. They lay out the road course for 1/ 10, 100 ft staightaways 10 ft lanes.

I watched m18s race and it seems like they have trouble with the parking lot surface,(they get bounced around a bit) I am not sure but it seemed that there cornering ability suffered.

The big race is in 3 weeks. They are going to throw all the 1/18ths into one large class, so I will be runing against Mini Ts Rc18s Vendettas etc; I assume some mamba powered cars.

On the rctech.net mini forum, people were claiming that on a flat road course RC18s were easily beating M18s. I had thought that any "off-road" vehicle would be too high centered be fast in the corners. I seems the larger tires and track width actually compensates for that.

Any ideas for the best set up?

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, for a parking lot surface, I think I'd prefer to run rubber tires, not foam, something like HPI wide softs in the rear & maybe their medium normal width fronts or XRay's 40 degree fronts(that's the kit front tire). I think the rubber tires will be MUCH more forgiving than foam, so you'll be able to keep it under control, & if the car slides a bit you can notice it before it spins out & make corrections(with foams I don't think you can really do that, their grip is much more sudden, either sticks or it doesn't). But aside from that, I don't have any other ideas, & I'm not sure about the motor situation for your race(in my neck of the woods, we just run either 180-size stocks or 280-size motors from the RC18T, we're quite happy with the power it produces & it's not too much or too expensive, motors cost about $8 at Stormer).....

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

what hardness foams did you get? you may need some different durometers. I would ca the sidewalls of the foam to lessen chunking. You did mention sugar water so i cannot make a comment on a foam hardness.
The m18 can go fast with the monster 17t but too much traction in a turn will cause you to bite and roll. Do you have a shock spring assortment? How do you have your ride height set? Use the setscrews in the lower arms. Get it set to give you decent clearance with no tweak......

duneland

First, you must NEVER use the set screws (down-travel limiters) for setting ride height. Get the shorter springs from Atomic, or cut some off the stock springs, so that ride height is set with shock spacers (the threaded bodies from atomic are more convenient). Using the grub screws for setting ride height, eliminates HALF the suspension action! This makes the car far less predictable & very bouncy. When car is at rest on a table, it should 'settle' into the springs, with movement available up & down, without the tires leaving the surface.
Foam tires are the only choice, if the track surface is blown & sprayed.
A bumpy surface could be a challenge for the little M18. On a smooth surface, the RC18t will have absolutely NO chance against a M18! This statement is based on the vehicles' abillities & does not take into account, the drivers abillity to drive or set-up the car properly.

Bermbuster

iTrader: (11)

I made my suggestion based on a keyword "parking lot"
When running in a parking lot you need ground clearance or a twig or a rock or a groove will upset the car far worse than losing suspension travel.........Too soft a ride in a parking lot and if your chassis drags....your slow..not to mention the damage you will be doing to your chassis.
Dune on a prepared racing surface I agree with you 100%......

duneland

Stiffness of suspension is varied by changing to a heavier spring, ride height is determined by spacers set above the spring or collar adjustment (in case of threaded bodies). Droop screws should never be in contact with chassis, when car is sitting on track or table. They should contact the chassis & limit downward movement of suspension, when the chassis is lifted off the surface.
Doesn't matter how 'bad' the surface is. On carpet or other high bite/smooth sufaces, one can get by using the screws for setting ride height, but it only works with low-power, low-speed conditions. Soon as you power-up, handling gets pretty un-predictable.

Mini_Me

iTrader: (1)

To add to Duneland.

The droops screws are great for limiting your maximum down travel which effects the cars polar movement. Short example you limit the front, so on a throttle punch, not as much off the weight can be shifted backwords before the front suspensions stops. Or opposite, deaccelerating with shorter travel in the rear wont allow as much weight to be shifted as far forward. Of course, this is under ideal situations. When running rough especially, you want as much travel as possible before any concerns of your polar movement.

The best use I have found for them though is as "tweak" screws like you would find on a pan car. Basically by lifting the front and rear centers of the car to see which tires lifts first. Then adjusting these slightly to compensate. It does help keep the car acting very precise on the track, especially with foams which can wear at different rates.