trainable

Just wanted to ask ...

Has anyone used the Trinity Mini Motors on your kits..I'm setting my sights on a "Monster Termination Mini-T" but even "Tower Hobbies" could not tell me if I will have enough clearance to fit the motor in..

Its almost the same size as a VR3 Ultra High RPM380 motor from vendetta..

Any input on a good brushed motor would also be welcome!!

Thanks....

Tony

mentallylost

I did the o-ring servo saver mod too. It was a life saver.

DiscoDan

I used 3 smaller o-rings (mainly because that's what I found in my box lol)
Heres my truck:
other than the o-ring mod, I have a home-made drag link (for now), and I have flipped the rear arms for more wheelbase... had to relocate the camber links and flip the shocks to the front of the tower. I also have an RPM bumper.
DP drag link & gear cover, and MIP super diffs are on the way
We race stock motors but it's plenty fast enough for our track

Ghost06

iTrader: (6)

This drag link and all of your other mods where do you buy them from, do these break alot as to do I need spares I plan on doing some jumping when racing but I'm not tring to go all out just need to make it last until spring when I can get back to 1/8 and truggy.

nitro guy1

hey guys i have a quik q on the run times im getting im only getting around five minutes i have no experience with minis.i am charging them at 1.5 amps and it is a 1400.

thanks

HotrodHopkins

iTrader: (31)

what size o rings are you all using on the servo saver?

DiscoDan

tell you what... here's the article I followed: Copetition X RC18 Support It isn't the biggest or best site, but they have some solid mod / tuning / product advice for RC18's

mentallylost

Thetoyz.com usually keeps the draglink in stock. Here. But they appear to be out right now. As for the other spare parts that I keep on hand, they either come from our local hobby stores or from killerhobbies.com. It's not that they brake often. It's just that I like to be able to replace them on the spot if something happens while racing.

HotrodHopkins the o-rings that I use on my servo saver is 010. A 009 will also work it's really tight. The 010 is perfect.

nitro guy1 are the batteries fairly new? You should be getting much longer run times than just 5 minutes. You may need to cycle them a few times to see if they will take a full charge. By the way, I charge my 1400's at 1.4 but that shouldn't make too much of a difference. What kind of charger are you useing?

Ghost06

iTrader: (6)

For the battery does it take one like what goes in a revo type flat pack or rx pack.

DiscoDan

flat pack 5 - 6 cell. I run SMC 1400mah 6 cell.

litsluv

iTrader: (10)

Hotrod, I learned from the AE guys in Enfield last year (05) to use an orange shock packing on the servo saver.

Disco Dan, just to let you know that the CompetionX site you refered to is Tony Phalen's (Team Associated driver) personel website.

DiscoDan

Well kudo's to Tony! I'm running his basic RC18 setup and love all the info and tips on his site... be nice to see it expand a bit.

ProudSavageOwnr

drag link nebody?...i think this 1 is better than the DP one...it has absolutely NO slop and is more made of metal than plastic....i reken its less prone to binding





if ne1 is interested in a mamba 25 esc and 5400kv motor pm me

trainable

Hi ProudSavageOwner!

Nice work on the home-built draglink....Did you use sway bar parts for it?

My rc18ft kit is finally in the mail and I should hopefully finish building it by the weekend..(if it arrives tomorrow...)

aside from taking extra care putting the screws in -- do you have any other building tips or stuff to watch out for?

Brgds,
Tony

ProudSavageOwnr

no i used some mini t shock ends from the oil shocks....theyre a nice size and a mini t rear turnbuckle which u will have to heat to redhot and bend orelse ull snap it and if u do manage to bend it itll snap under stress

there was a fair bit of grinding involved.....works realy good tho i aint complaining lol


wen u get ur FT kit ull be done in about 4 hours....if not 2 hours lol its piss easy to build

build the diffs properly,if u can scrap the kit bearings and go with some rubber shielded or ceramic bearings

build the shocks properly and thats about it..oh and the anodized alloy balls..dont use the 1.5mm wrench AE gives u..it sucks......pretty much any 1.5 mm wrench will strip those hexes so be carefull.

and if your gona use the 55t spur u can just install the 60t spur plate underneath so if u wana go to 60t u can not worry bout the plate

and use a realy good steerin servo like the Jr NES-375