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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
(Post 16204863)
They are calling them "Torsion Links".
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Mine just showed up yesterday, just waited on electronics and a couple tools I didn’t have and it’s build time! Been since a TLR 22 that iv3 built a new kit.
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Great build video:
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Originally Posted by tommy911t
(Post 16205199)
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Lazy Build / Parts Questions
Oh, wow! This came out of nowhere! Super cool.
I'm not new to RC cars: for on-road, I currently drive A/E TC8, DC10 and Kyosho V-One R4 EVO 3. I've never built 1/28, but I've always thought the Mini-Z was pretty neat--especially with available bodies. So I was curious about electronics and bodies for this new car, so I did a quick filtered-search (by 1/28th scale) on rcplanet.com and came up a little short. So, I have a few lazy questions: If you were going to build this new car,
Thanks in advance, jcalchi |
Originally Posted by jcalchi
(Post 16205559)
Oh, wow! This came out of nowhere! Super cool.
I'm not new to RC cars: for on-road, I currently drive A/E TC8, DC10 and Kyosho V-One R4 EVO 3. I've never built 1/28, but I've always thought the Mini-Z was pretty neat--especially with available bodies. So I was curious about electronics and bodies for this new car, so I did a quick filtered-search (by 1/28th scale) on rcplanet.com and came up a little short. So, I have a few lazy questions: If you were going to build this new car,
Thanks in advance, jcalchi 2. See above 3. Jourmera, PN Racing, Proline 4. No idea 5. Unfortunately Facebook is where mini's still reign supreme. Plenty of FB Groups for support, only reason I even have one anymore. I follow Mini Z's, Losi Micro B's, and Micro Crawlers |
Originally Posted by cartmen34
(Post 16204851)
Where are you seeing the rear side springs? I must be blind because I’ve looked through the manual several times and I'm not seeing them. I see side dampers in the rear, no springs.
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Originally Posted by jcalchi
(Post 16205559)
If you were going to build this new car,
Thanks in advance, jcalchi 2. I've only used GL at this scale, which are ok, but HobbyWing has been great at other scales! PN is also great. Just find a name brand ESC with the settings you like and a motor to match is your best bet. 3. A Jomurema to learn with as it's smooth front end keep you from stopping on the track walls! After you get the scale down, any body you feel comfortable driving is KEY! Bodies make a huge difference at this scale, so there is a lot of trial and error! As for mounting, you can drill a hard body for the post style mount(many that race on large tracks with others do, to keep the bodies on during a race), but the RC28R has the ability to use either the Post style mounts or Mini Z front and side clips per the Manual PDF. A lot of the current Kyosho Mini Z bodies are 98mm, but NOT ALL! So be sure to check. The new Porsche bodies are either 90mm or 102mm! There are a few Mini Z body guides, but all that I can find are older so new bodies won't be on it! 4. Thats a RAD BODY Mako X lexan body. A VERY GOOD Lexan body to learn Lexan bodies with! It has a strong rounded nose to keep it from burying under the RCP track walls! It's is great in the corners and shoots straight down he straightaways! 5. Tires are very much track, layout, and driver dependent!!! On the Mini96WorldChallenge, most run PN Medium Low Height/Profile Fronts (KS, KS-M, or KSK) and Marka V1R10 ( Slick version 1 rear Soft) rears. Even then temp, and even more importantly humidity, can change the way the car handles on the same track day to day, or even hour to hour! So most keep a supply of tires in different hardness, type, and brand to try to keep up with the changes! Searching for Mini Z/ 1/28th scale info can be tough! Tons of old, out dated info out there that confuses everyone! Proprietary radio protocols, what bodies fit what, wheel back spacing, etc... Facebook has a lot of groups, but the info is hard to follow with the updates and comments, or at least it is for this old fart! I prefer going through the pages here. Both places it can be hard to find something if ya need to locate it quick. I try to copy and paste info I can use later in the notebook of my laptop. This is all going off the assumption you will be running on a RCP track (or racing carpet)! That's what this car is really designed for! Just keep asking questions and welcome to the fold! |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...cde8709999.jpg
With parent company Team Associated entering the 1:28 market with the RC28R Team Kit, Reedy Power has released 400mAH 60C 7.4V LiPo designed specifically for 1:28 racing enthusiasts. Engineered for maximum power, durability, and efficiency, it boasts an impressive 60C rating and 400mAh capacity provides explosive power and run time across all 1:28 racing classes. Weighing just 18g, this lightweight battery ensures optimal vehicle handling. A high quality, durable hard case helps prevent damage while embedded 2mm socket connectors keep power robbing resistance to a minimum. |
Originally Posted by BoxxerBoyDrew
(Post 16205784)
1. Depends of track size and class, but I'd run a 2500kv on the Mini96, 3500kv on a larger layout. You can change pinions to match the track for the speed you need or spurs for that matter.
2. I've only used GL at this scale, which are ok, but HobbyWing has been great at other scales! PN is also great. Just find a name brand ESC with the settings you like and a motor to match is your best bet. 3. A Jomurema to learn with as it's smooth front end keep you from stopping on the track walls! After you get the scale down, any body you feel comfortable driving is KEY! Bodies make a huge difference at this scale, so there is a lot of trial and error! As for mounting, you can drill a hard body for the post style mount(many that race on large tracks with others do, to keep the bodies on during a race), but the RC28R has the ability to use either the Post style mounts or Mini Z front and side clips per the Manual PDF. A lot of the current Kyosho Mini Z bodies are 98mm, but NOT ALL! So be sure to check. The new Porsche bodies are either 90mm or 102mm! There are a few Mini Z body guides, but all that I can find are older so new bodies won't be on it! 4. Thats a RAD BODY Mako X lexan body. A VERY GOOD Lexan body to learn Lexan bodies with! It has a strong rounded nose to keep it from burying under the RCP track walls! It's is great in the corners and shoots straight down he straightaways! 5. Tires are very much track, layout, and driver dependent!!! On the Mini96WorldChallenge, most run PN Medium Low Height/Profile Fronts (KS, KS-M, or KSK) and Marka V1R10 ( Slick version 1 rear Soft) rears. Even then temp, and even more importantly humidity, can change the way the car handles on the same track day to day, or even hour to hour! So most keep a supply of tires in different hardness, type, and brand to try to keep up with the changes! Searching for Mini Z/ 1/28th scale info can be tough! Tons of old, out dated info out there that confuses everyone! Proprietary radio protocols, what bodies fit what, wheel back spacing, etc... Facebook has a lot of groups, but the info is hard to follow with the updates and comments, or at least it is for this old fart! I prefer going through the pages here. Both places it can be hard to find something if ya need to locate it quick. I try to copy and paste info I can use later in the notebook of my laptop. This is all going off the assumption you will be running on a RCP track (or racing carpet)! That's what this car is really designed for! Just keep asking questions and welcome to the fold! Thank you for the detailed responses! Just what I was looking for. |
Question about the dampers/kingpins/center shock. Why 30k oil vs Kyosho 30k damper grease?
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Maybe because Associated doesn't sell Kyosho products?
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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
(Post 16206337)
Maybe because Associated doesn't sell Kyosho products?
What is the norm for the gear diff? |
Originally Posted by jcalchi
(Post 16205559)
Oh, wow! This came out of nowhere! Super cool.
I'm not new to RC cars: for on-road, I currently drive A/E TC8, DC10 and Kyosho V-One R4 EVO 3. I've never built 1/28, but I've always thought the Mini-Z was pretty neat--especially with available bodies. So I was curious about electronics and bodies for this new car, so I did a quick filtered-search (by 1/28th scale) on rcplanet.com and came up a little short. So, I have a few lazy questions: If you were going to build this new car,
Thanks in advance, jcalchi 1,2. Motor and Esc https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/coll...40594144231539 3. Body https://www.bittydesign.net/en/mini-z-bodies 5. Tires MARKA racing tires I buy my tires from the source in Canada - contacting anyone of the distributors directly has always been the best source of information and support that I have received for tires selection. |
Hmmm:
Pinion required - but no mention of pitch in the manual..... I will assume that it is typical to Mini-Z pinions....but still.:weird: Wild guess, 64pitch? Low tooth 64pitch Pinions with a 2mm bore will be tricky to find. |
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