Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Reflex rear end is available. I find it funny that it uses GL side links.

Reflex Racing Atomic MRZ Triple Mount Conversion

EMU

iTrader: (3)

the long side links that the MRZ have aid in stability, but also make it a bit sluggish in the mid corner. The GL side links should bring some response to the chassis. I too find it a bit ironic, but if it works, it works.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys, I guess I'll pull the trigger on the package including metal version of GLR side dampers and see how it'll perfom on the tracck but i like how everything goes together as shown on the pictorial manual on RR's site...still not sure if its meant to be used with 1 or both side tubes (only 1 shown on finished car) but i suppose using grease viscosity both versions can be set to same level of dampening.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I'm curious how they're mounting the GL side links. I'm guessing its via the extra holes on the carbon piece but it would be good to have some instructions. Same goes for the side dampers. I can't imagine it uses only one.

zxcvb1t

I actually like how the MRZ handle out of the box, very different from a mr03 or the original GL. The MRZ turns on a larger radius, and seems to rotate with its rear inner wheel while the other two rotate with their front inner wheel. It does take sometime to adjust though, I crash a lot whenever I put my MRZ down first time in a night...

I do hope this conversion solve the MRZ's problem of not centering quick enough out of a corner. I'm running with a GL's servo and plastic horn, the problem is not about the trim or the servo not centering itself properly, the chassis just like to steer to oneside..

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Yeh should be easy to measure out which holes fit gl links with all parts on the on bench. On the side dampers my thought is he is showing the lowest CG option with wires running below rear shock tower, wires above tower would allow installing right side damper too, like you mentioned more explantion would have been nice.

Curious if you're using single swing arm front or the DWS?

The conversion should make it a lot easier and more accurate to set the correct side spring tension given the visually open design ( vs side spring hidden in the cup design of original MRZ) you can clearly see where the bottom of the spring is in realtion to the bottom plate and adjust it via screwing the 2mm set screw spring perch is threaded to...in that regard should help in better side to side balance in general.

zxcvb1t

I'm running the original single swing arm design... seems like guys here are all running the DWS. For me, the single swing arm seems to offer quicker initial steering response than the DWS, at least, for mr03 that is the case. So I thought the MRZ will probably be the same. I mostly run solo at home on RCP 96, high speed stability isn't as important as quick corner entry.

As for the rear end adjustment, I hope this conversion will solve the somewhat “primitive" side spring design. The penny trick does not work that well on 1/27 chassis, at least for me.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Got a chance to install & test my RR TRIPLE MOUNT CONVERSION equipped MRZ. regarding the conversion threading the screw holes on CF pieces will need some extra attention. The locator holes on CF bar which holds spring perches are tight to a point that i can no longer remove it from the center piece, making those holes slightly larger w/the right bit would be a good move…also wish the forward facing part of cross bar on the upper deck was thinner to allow better fitment of electronics, Im not a fan of CF dust but a dremel job will get that done.

All that said I highly recommend the conversion, beside making the chassis look super pro battery instal/removal is now a breeze w/no possible top deck tweak issues as a bonus and adjusting the beeffier & better hanging side springs is not only a delight but the car became noticeably easier to drive more consistently & was faster by 2 tenths , this despite using single swing arm vs DWS with the original side spring and top deck test before. ( Admittedly DWS could have been set better and I had limited success setting the original side springs where i wanted them to end up at)

Past the RR conversion the biggest issue I have to sort is why loosening and tightening the camber screw doesnt change camber ( aluminum top arm) and how to use that brass nut ( on this one is a regular nut) to i suppose hold the camber setting in place & reduce the overall play which there’s some even with tightening things down, caster shims are already in place to reduce that portion of play, a 2nd set of plastic top arms do better w/camber adjustment and those do have the original knurled brass nuts… Im all ears for tips though, perhaps the used cups are stripped and the camber screw just keeps turning in there and I understand camber screws need to be cut shorter for higher degree camber angle settings? …playing w/ that I can see how GL & RTRC camber knuckles are a cleaner solution for turnbuckle toe bar cars …Xray X4 style w/ no locking nut design for camber setting would have also been simpler for this design but perhaps harder to manufacture precisely?..duno

Car drove much better w/almost dry long side tubes after cleaning the 30k grease out of them… i also had no luck using the GL side tubes on RR conversion which are in the pic before i switched them to long atomic tubes , they would lock up the side to side articulation to a super tiny angle, i believe the tube and shaft were ending up too far apart at an angle that would cause lock up but maybe im missig something else. A harder top shock springs should be better in general, opened a new pack of yellow ( hardest) spring and unfortunately felt softer than the medium white already on the car but regardless they both seem too soft.

Probably another 2 track days before i can get the car within my own fastest window but at this point the behind the wheel & trigger feel is great ... it's a fun drive all day long.

Next test will be with properly installed DWS which feels great on the bench already so have a feeling car should peform noticeably better than last test w/single swing arm which even though was properly set, lubed & tuned still had a much rougher action (king pin against pivot ball friction) .

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I had a chance to see the RR conversion in person the other day and I was impressed. I'll probably end up getting it eventually.

The camber screw is just a poor design. If you could actually adjust camber by turning the screw it would be one thing, but it doesn't work that way. I've found that its easier to adjust camber by popping off the cup and rotating it. With the aluminum upper arms, I also tighten the screw in all the way. If I don't do that, the screw tends to loosen up and it gets sloppy since those brass nuts don't stay very tight.

I'd pay good money if someone like Reflex made some upper arms that were truly adjustable.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Oh ok so rotating the cup vs turning screw, gotcha...I'll try that except instead of popping cup off the ball will unscrew the ball and rotate cup w/ball in there... I noticed with my GLF popping the arms off the balls even once produces irriparable play and supposebly atomic plastic is not as good as GL's in general. & yes agreed, that upperarm/camber adjustment is easily the first item needing a re-design when comes time for MRZ2. RR conversion is nice will make you like the car a lot better.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, since the arm and the cup stay in the same position relative to each other, turning the screw doesn't do jack squat. I unscrew them too. Much easier than actually popping them off.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

So testing after installing the DWS which on the bench felt miles smoother than single swing arm to my big surprise both lap times and consistncy went backwards. Essentially the car under steered both on & off power loosing gobs of time...trying to drive harder made matters worst. There was enough time to make multiple tuning changes based on best online tuning sheets around but none of them hepled so prbably fundememtal tuning item(s) being overlooked & missed by myself. An MRZ TQ'd and dominated all qualifying last Sunday RCHQ's Tx vs Cali race and another finished 3rd over all in open class ( SS for sure DWS equipped and i belive the open too) ...in any case the speed is there just a matter extracting it OR could partly be a driver style/car compatibilty issue...time will tell...just following up on my post above.

P2

iTrader: (15)

You might be on to something w/ driver style/compatibility issue. I struggled for a month with a DWS MRZ copying RCHQ's SS TQ driver's setup. I switched to a GLR and immediately went faster and more consistent. I guess it's a good thing there isn't one size fits all in the sport. I recall the Open class last weekend was won with a GLR GT w/ Reflex rear conversion.

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Driver car compatibility for sure is a very real thing and at the end that may end up being the case w/me here but speaking of GL cars like yours sure seems they’ve been outnumbering and outperforming MRZ’s in 2021 big event races for the most part. Perhaps besides car design aspects GL’s initial manual setup is also more optimized compared to MRZ’s which is proving outta box needing lots of tuning know how if its going to hang with even my own current PN2.5. AT this coming weekend's GL National Race MRZ's will be outnumbered again but will be entertaining to see where the chips will fall.

Kremzeek

iTrader: (8)

I was frustrated with the MRZ initially because I couldn't drive it like my GT. Using the same tires, it didn't have as much steering and I felt like I couldn't drive it as hard into the corners. Once I found a decent tire combo and figured out how to drive it, it has worked well.

It will be interesting to see how Atomic does this weekend with Derek Tester on the team.