Losi mini B 1/16th 2wd buggy
#301
Tech Initiate

Thanks for the additional option. Nice to know I have more than one choice!
#303
Tech Initiate

I decided to order a package from eBay. It's a Savox metal gear micro servo, with 3D printed mounts, and a 3D printed servo arm. It seemed like a great deal at $36. I'llf follow up when it arrives and I get to install it.
#304
Tech Regular

I bought the same kit. The savox servo lasted one race. Pretty bummed. No hard hits either.
#305
Tech Initiate

That's disappointing, and also surprising. I have read really good things about Savox servos.
#307
Tech Initiate
#308

I decided to upload all the parts I designed for this chassis on Thingiverse. Hope it helps someone.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239098/files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239098/files
#309
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)

I've been away from the hobby for a few months but have big hopes of jumping back in come spring. I see Losi has released the Mini-B Pro. Back in post #175 I suggested Losi release this car in kit form minus electronics but with every upgrade they make and then add a ball diff. The Pro edition isn't everything I hoped for but it's close enough and I plan to get one. Kudos to Losi giving us more options in this class of cars
#310
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)

I decided to upload all the parts I designed for this chassis on Thingiverse. Hope it helps someone.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239098/files
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239098/files
#311
Tech Initiate

I finally had time to sit down and build up my mini-b roller. I ended up putting in the EcoPower servo and using the Losi aluminum servo horn that came with the kit. The case of the EcoPower servo is identical (size and shape) to the Losi servo in the RTR version so it was a perfect fit in the roller. Once I get to the track (small, tight, carpet off-road for 1/10 scale) I'll report back on durability.
I have a problem with the gear mesh between the pinion and the spur gear. I disassembled the gear box and cleaned out the factory black grease. I lubricated the bearings with Krytech dry lube. Then I put a very small amount of 300k silicon diff oil (Kyosho) in the spider gears. I reassembled the gearbox with no issues. However, when I installed the Dynamite brushless motor/ESC I hit a snag. The instructions say to use the top center and bottom center holes for bolting the motor to the motor plate, but I couldn't get those to line up. I had to use the top right and bottom left holes. The pinion/spur fit is tighter than I'd like, but there seems to be just the tiniest bit of play between the pinion and spur, so it doesn't seem bound. However, there is zero coast. It's like I have 100% drag break set. I plan to go through the ESC settings to confirm it isn't a setting (but the factory settings should be fine). I realize 300k is a VERY thick diff oil (I used it in my Slash), but given it is an open diff I wanted to use something that would provide resistance and not immediately leak out.
My question, has anyone else had trouble using the recommended mounting holes for the motor? Any tips? Did I just make a simple mistake like not rotating the motor to the correct position before trying to bolt it in? Second, has anyone else experienced binding? Is it likely that pinion/spur gear fit? Or maybe the 300k silicon oil in the diff is just too much for a vehicle of this scale. Any input is welcome! Thanks in advance.
I have a problem with the gear mesh between the pinion and the spur gear. I disassembled the gear box and cleaned out the factory black grease. I lubricated the bearings with Krytech dry lube. Then I put a very small amount of 300k silicon diff oil (Kyosho) in the spider gears. I reassembled the gearbox with no issues. However, when I installed the Dynamite brushless motor/ESC I hit a snag. The instructions say to use the top center and bottom center holes for bolting the motor to the motor plate, but I couldn't get those to line up. I had to use the top right and bottom left holes. The pinion/spur fit is tighter than I'd like, but there seems to be just the tiniest bit of play between the pinion and spur, so it doesn't seem bound. However, there is zero coast. It's like I have 100% drag break set. I plan to go through the ESC settings to confirm it isn't a setting (but the factory settings should be fine). I realize 300k is a VERY thick diff oil (I used it in my Slash), but given it is an open diff I wanted to use something that would provide resistance and not immediately leak out.
My question, has anyone else had trouble using the recommended mounting holes for the motor? Any tips? Did I just make a simple mistake like not rotating the motor to the correct position before trying to bolt it in? Second, has anyone else experienced binding? Is it likely that pinion/spur gear fit? Or maybe the 300k silicon oil in the diff is just too much for a vehicle of this scale. Any input is welcome! Thanks in advance.
#312
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (7)

#1- diffs on the Mini-B are not designed to use silicone oil... they are not sealed and the oil will leak out... Use a grease that you like instead. I use a red (sticky) grease on mine. But any grease will work and yes, some of this will eventually leak out.
#2- mounting holes. I drilled out my mounting holes with a 3mm bit which then allowed for a but of play between the spur and pinion. Next upgrade, you can get a new motor plate that is slotted to allow for multiple fits.
#2- mounting holes. I drilled out my mounting holes with a 3mm bit which then allowed for a but of play between the spur and pinion. Next upgrade, you can get a new motor plate that is slotted to allow for multiple fits.
#313

AMAIN has the pro roller for sale - $60 off!......could not pass it up so ordered one myself.....
#314
#315
Tech Initiate

I finally got to test out my mini-B at the track last Sunday. Small, technical, carpet track. Built for 1/10th scale with some long jumps. It was a challenge with the mini-B (compared to my 1/10th TLR 22 3.0), but it could handle it. I was using the mini pin rears and wedge fronts. I did once have the servo sort of freeze up after a crash, but a little tap and it cleared whatever jammed it. I didn't do any tuning with springs and oil yet. I think that would help with jumping and making it easier to steer through tight switchbacks.