Monski1971

Hi there,
I'm wanting to buy a GLF-1 and am considering which spares I would likely need to purchase along with the chassis to ensure I can keep racing should something fail.
As I have no experience of the GLF-1 I'm not sure which parts are most likely to need replacing due to breakages. Can anyone who has an F-1 please let me know what it would be best to order along with the chassis? Thanks.

Vintagedriver

iTrader: (21)

I’ve had mine a few weeks and putting 100’s of laps every day, thanks coronavirus. My two boys have them as well. I broke the carbon motor mount and one side link, motor mount was a fluke in my opinion. That’s it, not a single broken part on all three cars otherwise! Amazing durability so far. When I ordered the cars I got just about every spare available, haven’t opened any of it!
I would order the bearing set and stainless hardware for sure. Hard not to lose some of the tiny screws! I’m told the carbon front wing brace is prone to breaking. Then invest in key upgrades. Front, center and side tuning springs, metal damper pistons front and side. Most important is a good tire selection, by far biggest tuning tool. Maybe spare spur gears although we’ve not stripped one yet.
Unless you plan on running a very large track the 2500kv motor has more than enough power.

Monski1971

Thanks for that. I guess I'll get the chassis and see how it goes. Great to know it's quite durable.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Practice.

Vintagedriver

iTrader: (21)

good video. Can’t lie, car looks like a handful!!! Appears to have no grip in the rear. I’m curious what timing app you’re using? I’m using the RC Timing on iPhone and white is an impossible color to get consistent results with.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

LapTracker for iPhone. All my cars are white. I do occasionally get a missed lap. But I get them also with few painted bodies.

I’ve gotta look into how to adjust the front suspension. And I think the diff is slipping.

Vintagedriver

iTrader: (21)

Thanks, I may give that app a try. I’m finding the GLF to be challenging to set up. Tons of grip up front not so much out back! I’ve done a lot of experimenting with springs, particularly side and front, and they don’t seem to affect handling as dramatically as 1/10. I race GTR and F1, both spec tire classes, so chassis setup is everything. One spring change can completely change car feel. I’m thinking because these little cars are so light, changing spring rates will never be as critical as in 1/10. What seems most important setting the chassis up is ride height, droop, pod balance, and tweak. With that sorted it’s tires, tires, tires!!! I just got some 5° rears and they greatly improved rear grip. With 23° fronts I still have enough steering grip I have to be extremely smooth accelerating out of corners or the back end will kick out. 25° fronts settle the car down, not as quick and a bit pushy, but far easier to lay down consistent laps. Throttle control has always been a challenge for me, I always grab too much too early!

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

Any slicks are a challenge on my home track. I see one in the Facebook group that I think I’m going to try his tire/wheel combination.

I know I’m going to end up needing the prototype body for home use.

lore

It is me, i am the same guy, contact me in private via messenger an i will tell you in details. i true the 11mm (2WD rear tires) to 23.2mm in front. i could have gone even lower but at 23.2 was giving me plenty of steering without rolling so i kept it like this, more tire life.

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I would not have guessed that. I’ve been able to content who some are on RCTech/Facebook.


The rear radials caught my eye. I hadn’t considered other wheels working. I’d mistakenly made the assumption that the wheels were F1 specific. Like 1/10 F1.

I figured the smaller MiniZ tires would be possible because of ground clearance.

I don’t have a tire truer. The group does. I’ve just recently moved to using trued tires on my Evos. We are still 3 weeks minimum before theres any chance of the group running.

lore

i honestly do not believe that the rear PN 14mm tires are smaller than the GLF1. if you need i can check but out of my mind they were pretty close. Front, if you can't true the tires (by the way, if you are way into this hobby is the best investment you can do in owning one moreover if you have a track at home), try to use less traction tires or use GLF1 tires and rims in front and the 14mm in the rear... another way would be to put the PN 14 mm tires onto the GLF1 rear rims, i do believe they will fit nicely.

Suggestion, buy at least some rear 14mm tires, maybe 1 set of 14mm rims, and do some test keeping the front as it is, what do you run in front? GL25?

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

I miss the simplicity of 1/10.

I wasn’t aware of the different sizes. Looking at Kenon, maybe half the wheels listed give a size. GL doesn’t list a size.


Tire truer gonna be a hard sell for me. I’ve seen what trued tires do on both places I run. They made an improvement on the big track, same tires were useless at home. That was with MiniZ. Despite being surrounded by GL cars with the group. My F1 is the only GL car I’ve driven

Vintagedriver

iTrader: (21)

while the stock speedo works fine I decided to order a sensored setup. I’m not finding any way to mount the esc in the GLF without covering the power button. Ideas??

Billy Kelly

iTrader: (9)

My on/off switch is near the “GL” letters on the battery. Under the shock. Most in my group just leave it on. And just unplug the battery.

Vintagedriver

iTrader: (21)

that appears to be the stock esc. Trying to mount the sensored