Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Micro and Mini Scales
GL Racing GLF F1 Chassis >

GL Racing GLF F1 Chassis

Like Tree285Likes

GL Racing GLF F1 Chassis

Old 10-22-2019, 11:16 AM
  #166  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
mugler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,540
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I see you have the aluminum knuckles, did you notice any difference in handling when you switched over? what degrees are these or would you recommend between the 1 & 2°'s options?

looking forward to your heavy chassis testing results.
EMU likes this.
mugler is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 11:21 AM
  #167  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mugler
I see you have the aluminum knuckles, did you notice any difference in handling when you switched over? what degrees are these or would you recommend between the 1 & 2°'s options?

looking forward to your heavy chassis testing results.
I got the 1d for myself, Roland wanted 2d (he likes a lot more steering than I do)
EMU is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 12:23 PM
  #168  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
mugler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,540
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
I got the 1d for myself, Roland wanted 2d (he likes a lot more steering than I do)
Nice, have you ran the 1d yet and any comparisons to stock?
mugler is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 12:31 PM
  #169  
EMU
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
EMU's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,580
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mugler
Nice, have you ran the 1d yet and any comparisons to stock?
hard to test when the servo saver keeps skipping on the servo... hopefully this weekend I will have a larger bumper and swap the saver for a GLR horn.
EMU is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 01:08 PM
  #170  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
mugler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,540
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by EMU
hard to test when the servo saver keeps skipping on the servo... hopefully this weekend I will have a larger bumper and swap the saver for a GLR horn.
haha got it.
Thankfully I was spared that issue. The servo saver screw backed out once all the way disengaging it from the steering rack otherwise no servo skipping I could detect.
mugler is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 03:22 PM
  #171  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: CA, SF Bay Area
Posts: 98
Default

Originally Posted by mugler
I see you have the aluminum knuckles, did you notice any difference in handling when you switched over? what degrees are these or would you recommend between the 1 & 2°'s options?

looking forward to your heavy chassis testing results.
I have the 1 deg knuckles in my primary car in the photo. My 2nd car has the stock knuckles. To be honest I did not notice a huge difference between the two on either the smaller HFAY track or the larger track. For the most part front end response seemed to be dominated by front tire traction (or lack thereof on the larger track).

I also have a set of the 2d knuckles but have not tried them out yet, next time I plan to try out some regular Mini-Z front wheels/tires (likely PN KS) and will also try the 2d knuckles.
mugler likes this.
art4242 is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 06:24 PM
  #172  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 179
Default

I thought I would report back on my trial with the pn tires and wheels on our F1 cars. I tried 2 front ks super soft tires on the rear with 14mm wide rims and rear rims with ks medium rear slicks on the front. The rears were not as good as the marka v1s, not enough grip. The fronts with the medium tires are working very well. I did true them down flat and sanded a shoulder onto them, but there is more traction than with the 23deg GL tires.

I don't have a 3d printer yet so I modified the stock front wing by adding the tamiya wheels, I used the purple wheels to get a little more width. They work wonders, no more sticking into the wall with every tap of the wall. They still do not protect the wheel if I take a corner too sharp and hit the tire on the corner. When that happens the tie rod comes off of the ball but at least the steering link is not breaking thanks to the reinforcement.

We have the brass nose piece and brass weights on 2 of our cars now. While I had the cars apart I did away with the component stand above the brass weights. I had been worrying about the nut on the bottom damper system, now I have the esc and rx mounted on the weights.

A big part of the fun is figuring out what makes these little cars run the way I want. I still cannot match the lap times of my hfay open car but we are getting closer and it is a blast to drive as they are now. Part of the problem is my fear of catching a tire on an inside corner, I will have a printer to make the bigger wing soon.
mugler and art4242 like this.
MTseo is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 06:46 PM
  #173  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (9)
 
Billy Kelly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Far south suburbs of Chicago area
Posts: 17,773
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

MTseo

You could try using clear packing tape on the side rails where there’s a risk fo impact. Should let it just slide off. It’s still going to effect lap times. But might be a simple option

MTseo likes this.

Last edited by Billy Kelly; 10-22-2019 at 06:57 PM.
Billy Kelly is offline  
Old 10-22-2019, 09:21 PM
  #174  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: CA, SF Bay Area
Posts: 98
Default

Originally Posted by MTseo
I thought I would report back on my trial with the pn tires and wheels on our F1 cars. I tried 2 front ks super soft tires on the rear with 14mm wide rims and rear rims with ks medium rear slicks on the front. The rears were not as good as the marka v1s, not enough grip. The fronts with the medium tires are working very well. I did true them down flat and sanded a shoulder onto them, but there is more traction than with the 23deg GL tires.

I don't have a 3d printer yet so I modified the stock front wing by adding the tamiya wheels, I used the purple wheels to get a little more width. They work wonders, no more sticking into the wall with every tap of the wall. They still do not protect the wheel if I take a corner too sharp and hit the tire on the corner. When that happens the tie rod comes off of the ball but at least the steering link is not breaking thanks to the reinforcement.

We have the brass nose piece and brass weights on 2 of our cars now. While I had the cars apart I did away with the component stand above the brass weights. I had been worrying about the nut on the bottom damper system, now I have the esc and rx mounted on the weights.

A big part of the fun is figuring out what makes these little cars run the way I want. I still cannot match the lap times of my hfay open car but we are getting closer and it is a blast to drive as they are now. Part of the problem is my fear of catching a tire on an inside corner, I will have a printer to make the bigger wing soon.
Nice, thanks for reporting in. Can I ask what diameter you trued the PN medium rears to for use on the front? I was going to try exactly the same thing, it looks like a Mini Z 0 offset rear wheel is close to the GL F1 wheel, it does looks a little better than a regular Mini-Z front wheel which visually looks pretty narrow.

Have you tried the cars with the brass weights yet? I'll have my track up in a few days, but even before the brass my cars were fine on the smaller HFAY size track, not until we went to a larger layout that they felt too light.
MTseo likes this.
art4242 is offline  
Old 10-23-2019, 03:54 AM
  #175  
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Posts: 179
Default

Originally Posted by art4242
Nice, thanks for reporting in. Can I ask what diameter you trued the PN medium rears to for use on the front? I was going to try exactly the same thing, it looks like a Mini Z 0 offset rear wheel is close to the GL F1 wheel, it does looks a little better than a regular Mini-Z front wheel which visually looks pretty narrow.

Have you tried the cars with the brass weights yet? I'll have my track up in a few days, but even before the brass my cars were fine on the smaller HFAY size track, not until we went to a larger layout that they felt too light.
I trued them to 24.6mm. I was not aiming for that size that is just where I happened to stop. I am using the 0 offset rear wheels also.
We have driven with the brass weights. After putting the pn tires on the front we were actually experiencing a small amount of traction roll. But after adding the brass weights the roll was completely eliminated. Our cars weight close to 150g now.
art4242 likes this.
MTseo is offline  
Old 10-24-2019, 04:58 PM
  #176  
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by art4242
Early shipment arrived from GL: brass chassis, brass front spoiler mount, and brass weights. It was quick to swap everything over. I was somewhat concerned about the brass being too flexible but it actually feels a bit stiffer in both bending and torsion than the stock carbon chassis.

It feels REALLY hefty now at 173+ grams. It might actually be too heavy, the extra weights may not be needed.

I'll try and get my track set up over the weekend to give it a shakedown.




I built my second car with all the options, but used the Alloy front bumper mount instead of the brass and have not added any weights. I went with red front and center damper springs and purple side damper springs. I'm hoping to have both cars to test head to head next week. The first car is bone stock built as in the kit. I'll have to get another PN or GL 3500 for the second car and another receiver to finish it.


Notes on the second car: The alloy front bulkhead for the arm mounts is noticably stiffer and allows less slop. There is no room for shims in the upper arms when installing the adjustable front dampers. All the options parts just have the feel of quality you expect from an upgrade.
EMU likes this.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 10-24-2019, 05:10 PM
  #177  
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I have feeling rear tires may need to be glued. They balloon pretty badly.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 10-25-2019, 10:22 AM
  #178  
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

I have drilled out the wing for the two holes that pass through the wing mount, center mount and into the wing on the second car as I did with the first. The 4mm screws literally caught nothing and fell out during assembly. I used 6mm screws to get as much bite as possible. The end of the screw ends up even with the back of the wing with the front slightly protruding just under 1mm.
liljohn1064 is offline  
Old 10-25-2019, 12:17 PM
  #179  
Tech Master
iTrader: (3)
 
mugler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,540
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I have feeling rear tires may need to be glued. They balloon pretty badly.

For sure both the rear and front tires for sure need to be affixed to the rims but instead of gluing which I usually assume its CA taping will be fine also. I prefer the PN v3 tape to Kyosho not only for its multi use per application characteristic but also feel it just works better too.

It would be nice if someone offered a die cut circular double sided tape for affixing the side walls on GLF tires to prevent micro ballooning not visible to the eye under higher rpms, for now I'm thinking of using a thin layer of peel-able loctite glue i have for that application.


interesting to hear about less slop with aluminum bulkhead. I think on FB someone posted they were seeing a lot of slop with that piece too. Beyond the need for no extra shims which address fore/aft slop is the up/down and left/right slop also eliminated?


Looking forward to heavier weight chassis testing by you and art4242 since i wont get to that till next month.
Next throw down on the track tomorrow for the HFAY run but pretty much still bone stock with minor changes to be done at he track.
mugler is offline  
Old 10-26-2019, 07:53 PM
  #180  
Tech Champion
Thread Starter
iTrader: (17)
 
liljohn1064's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Deerfield, WI
Posts: 5,919
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by mugler
For sure both the rear and front tires for sure need to be affixed to the rims but instead of gluing which I usually assume its CA taping will be fine also. I prefer the PN v3 tape to Kyosho not only for its multi use per application characteristic but also feel it just works better too.

It would be nice if someone offered a die cut circular double sided tape for affixing the side walls on GLF tires to prevent micro ballooning not visible to the eye under higher rpms, for now I'm thinking of using a thin layer of peel-able loctite glue i have for that application.


interesting to hear about less slop with aluminum bulkhead. I think on FB someone posted they were seeing a lot of slop with that piece too. Beyond the need for no extra shims which address fore/aft slop is the up/down and left/right slop also eliminated?


Looking forward to heavier weight chassis testing by you and art4242 since i wont get to that till next month.
Next throw down on the track tomorrow for the HFAY run but pretty much still bone stock with minor changes to be done at he track.
I got a little stir crazy and CA'd the tires to the wheels. I put a very thin bead of Thin CA on the tire and then dampened the whole inside of the tire with the tip on the glue bottle. Litterally just enough to wet the tire. One drop of glue is about all you need honestly. Then I inserted the wheel into the tire as quickly as I could with a little twist on the way down. At this point you have about 15 seconds to make any corrections. Mine went so smoothly they didn't need correcting. They cured for a couple hours and then I mounted them on the car and gave them a spin to check to see if they spin true, which they did.
mugler likes this.
liljohn1064 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Your Privacy Choices -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.