RussF

iTrader: (22)

You need the turning radius to be the same left to right, when moving very slow speed. To check, I put the rear end against the rail, mark the spot or use a seem, and turn the wheels to max and slowly go nose in to to the rail. Then put the rear on that spot and turn the wheels full the other way and slowly nose into the rail. You want to end where you started. Hope that makes sense. Or you can just turn slow circles left and right and estimate what looks about right.

Some things you can do to center everything is center the servo and steering linkage mechanically as close to straight and equal as possible. Then you can trim the radio center and end points to acheive straight steering and equal turn radius. Make sure to set all trims to center and 100%. If you have to move them excessively to center the car or acheive equal turning radius that means the mechanical stuff is off. Servo's are never perfect center, at least none that ive owned. You want the left and right steering links to be equal in length, so make sure they are the same. You can lengthen or shorten the servo link to acheive a mechanical center, or as close as possible. Most racers skip all the mechanical stuff and adjust the centers with the radio trims. Thats better than nothing, but to have it mechanically centered first makes the radio settings less severe and works much better IMO.

Oh and if the car is pulling one way or the other under accelleration you can usually compensate with the side spring pre-load.

ijdod

GL-Racing announced a new car: de GL-GTR. Looks like its, roughly speaking, a GT-like front with a GL-like back. It will be available in February
https://www.facebook.com/GLRCRACING/...12564928771024

RussF

iTrader: (22)

Come race your GL Racing cars in SLC!!

Rules, Schedule and Registration info here -----> 1/28th scale RC Car Racing | West Valley City, UT - Official Site (wvc-ut.gov)

mugler

iTrader: (3)

Hats off to GL, this car marks a big leap forward in general for the scale by intoducing arm ball joints & double bell crank to the front . much lower CG in the back with lowered & conventional top shock location and mid chassis side to side brace all also better on paper....lowered top shock should allow lowest avaiable height pan car body instalation ... in the current market with already many good choices this model checks a lot of desired new to this scale boxes. 28th scale 2WD being unique in on-road RC world with pan rear / TC front suspension combo and this car pushes that idea farthest its gone so far... I run a different brand and will be sticking with that but curious to see how this car will do.


For various and arguably obvious reasons I think RCP is a big part of what makes 28th scale special but since as I call it the "big-tack" subject has come up I can tell from first hand experience these cars work exceptionally well on both 10th scale carpet and aspohalt tracks surprisingly even if asphalt is slightly bumpy! On asphalt as good as the car drove with som e KS PN tires the ultimate performance was with foam tires but the rate of wear on foams is very high. Carpet track being always drenched with sauce from other cars cant go wrong with kyosho threaded tires and again also PN KS tires, cars drive as good as best pan cars.

At this time I think big track mini-z racing if persued woiuld be counter productive to expansion of the class by confusing and diluting the existing momentum that has picked up nicely but it should be something for big race event organizers and clubs or tracks to think about in the backgrounds as a possible variety option at some point in the future.