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GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

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GLR 1/27 Scale RWD Pan Chassis

Old 10-09-2022, 08:47 AM
  #646  
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EMU thanks for the info! Tire and camber info was particularly helpful, we're going to test Kyosho Radials in all shores on all four wheels and see what happens with the intention of working out some sort of standard for the two tracks here, one being carpet for the rainy winter seasons and one being asphalt for the drier summer seasons. Both tracks are large with some good sweepers but also some nice sequential technical turns where car balance is absolutely crucial.

There's no league or club here so my intent is to slowly siphon off the 1/12th scale dudes until my local club manager has to start running a 1/28th pan class. I'd be interested in knowing what sort of motors and gearing you guys are running at your local clubs too, and how you split the stock, and pro from the mod classes. We're also trying to run something like a GT28, similar to GT12. Overall, GT12 usually brings out the most people, the most cars and the most fun, and that's what the goal is with running the 1/28th scale cars.

Also, I'm very interested in what diffs you guys are running. Does a heavier diff help with front to rear balance at all? Or help with left to right pod balance against the motor? Or is the diff disproportionately more massive than the rest of the motor pod and lightweight is critical to balanced performance?

Last edited by teh_fox_king; 10-09-2022 at 09:01 AM.
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Old 10-21-2022, 12:45 PM
  #647  
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Hey all, I'm about a third of the way through my build, and I'm trying to install my triangular front brace, while getting the shims and spacing right with my STOCK steering system / servo saver, etc. My issue is that when I get my screw into the steering tower down, the tension is causing the steering system to bind up pretty well, I've gone through and deburred everything, hit all the flush parts with a file and made sure everything is real tight tolerances, I've gone in with more .1mm shims and less .1mm shims, I've shimmed the front brace up and down on the shock tower. I've check my bearings and all my contact points. As far as I can tell, the only solution, is to just back the screw off a little, which is just asking for it to fall out, and I'm not really too excited to thread lock a screw that I don't have to. Any insight?

Let me now.

Cheers.
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Old 10-21-2022, 01:08 PM
  #648  
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Originally Posted by teh_fox_king
Hey all, I'm about a third of the way through my build, and I'm trying to install my triangular front brace, while getting the shims and spacing right with my STOCK steering system / servo saver, etc. My issue is that when I get my screw into the steering tower down, the tension is causing the steering system to bind up pretty well, I've gone through and deburred everything, hit all the flush parts with a file and made sure everything is real tight tolerances, I've gone in with more .1mm shims and less .1mm shims, I've shimmed the front brace up and down on the shock tower. I've check my bearings and all my contact points. As far as I can tell, the only solution, is to just back the screw off a little, which is just asking for it to fall out, and I'm not really too excited to thread lock a screw that I don't have to. Any insight?

Let me now.

Cheers.
Which side are you needing to loosen? Can you post a picture and highlight the you are needing to loosen the screw?

Do you still have the larger 3mm ID shim on the top of the bearing?

the middle carbon deck also needs to be trimmed and cannot be kept in the stack on the saver post. On many of my builds, I just omit that mid deck, or snip it with side cutters to remove the eyelet over the post.
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Old 10-21-2022, 01:16 PM
  #649  
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Originally Posted by EMU
Which side are you needing to loosen? Can you post a picture and highlight the you are needing to loosen the screw?

Do you still have the larger 3mm ID shim on the top of the bearing?

the middle carbon deck also needs to be trimmed and cannot be kept in the stack on the saver post. On many of my builds, I just omit that mid deck, or snip it with side cutters to remove the eyelet over the post.


This screw, if too tight, binds the steering system. I've omitted the front brace for the time being to clear it as the culprit and left the two shims in place to allow usage of the 2x6PH screw.

Last edited by teh_fox_king; 11-01-2022 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 10-21-2022, 02:53 PM
  #650  
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I leave mine a little loose there also to avoid binding. Not had any problems with it coming out. I do have the tri-brace anc have it shimmed even. If I get a chance to take a pic I will post it up for you.
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:12 PM
  #651  
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I went back and double checked, and noticed that I had one too many 3x6x2.5mm bearings, so I checked my diff and my motor pod, and found one of the 3x6x2mm bearings in the motor pod... So I swapped it out in the steering system and now it seems to be working better. The lesson: Measure your #%^&!!!

UPDATE: Yeah, I've got that sucker wrenched down, everything is nice and tight, and my steering system is loose and on full bearings now. I feel like a n00b!!!
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Last edited by teh_fox_king; 10-23-2022 at 11:04 PM.
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Old 10-21-2022, 03:42 PM
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That sort of thing has happened to the best of us... the 2 to 2.5mm difference is easy to miss
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Old 10-23-2022, 11:03 PM
  #653  
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Fair enough!

On that note, I'm about ready to wrap this build up, but I'm at a loss as to how to solder my motor and ESC... The leads from the GL v1.2 ESC aren't really clearly labeled, and I'm not one to just solder away and hope for the best. I've done the perfunctory internet search and come up with nothing. Any advice?
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Old 10-24-2022, 03:07 AM
  #654  
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Originally Posted by teh_fox_king
Fair enough!

On that note, I'm about ready to wrap this build up, but I'm at a loss as to how to solder my motor and ESC... The leads from the GL v1.2 ESC aren't really clearly labeled, and I'm not one to just solder away and hope for the best. I've done the perfunctory internet search and come up with nothing. Any advice?
with the sensorless ESC, ABC aren't marked or followed. Solder the leads random, then check the motor direction. Note the direction that brakes are relative to throttle input. You may need to reverse the channel direction if brake engages on throttle pull.

Once you have channel direction sorted, see the rotation of the motor. If the motor rotates backwards, them swap any two leads and rotation will reverse.

Some sensorless motors spin opposite to others. It's not standardized the way that sensored are. Sensored need to be soldered ABC only because the sensor on the board is paired with it, and if not followed the ESC will energize the wrong pole.

once I wire it up one time and check direction, then I label the leads for the corresponding pole so that it's easy swap in the future.
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Old 11-01-2022, 06:08 PM
  #655  
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Originally Posted by EMU
with the sensorless ESC, ABC aren't marked or followed. Solder the leads random, then check the motor direction. Note the direction that brakes are relative to throttle input. You may need to reverse the channel direction if brake engages on throttle pull.

Once you have channel direction sorted, see the rotation of the motor. If the motor rotates backwards, them swap any two leads and rotation will reverse.

Some sensorless motors spin opposite to others. It's not standardized the way that sensored are. Sensored need to be soldered ABC only because the sensor on the board is paired with it, and if not followed the ESC will energize the wrong pole.

once I wire it up one time and check direction, then I label the leads for the corresponding pole so that it's easy swap in the future.
Hey everyone, thanks for your info and help. I have so much to say about what I've learned and experienced from beginning to now from everyone and would love to share for others who come after me upon this amazing kit, but I'll try condense it down for the sake of brevity.

All in all, I got the motor all wired up correctly, I matched the connections on the ESC symmetrically to the A, B and C pots, and ended up with a correct motor rotation but a swapped throttle, so a quick jaunt through the TX menu and I was good to go. Initial test drives were rough..., 5500kV motor is so much motor in such a fast kit! I couldn't even get it full open for more than a second. I dialed down the power to 62.5% on the ESC with the card and found that to be much more tame, while still being very very fast. After a couple runs with dry everything, it was clear that the shocks needed damping, so I went with 45k in the centre shock and 15k all around. That IMMEDIATELY made the car handle like a 1/12th pan car. I was blown away. Just a tiny, tiny bit of grease completely altered the handling, and made it drive exactly like a tiny pan car, they nailed it. Aside from an extremely noticeable lack of grip due to being so lightweight, it will do almost anything I ask it too, aside from rolling through the tightest turn radius when I go either left or right to the stops, which is super tight anyway. Body isn't mounted yet, so there's no aero stability to remark on yet, but I'll try and return with more information. Everything is basically stock except for the metal side pistons, triangular front brace and the front bumper with the foam and all that good stuff because you can never have too much bumper. But that's a great sign because that means that this thing is really great almost as-is, not many kits are so tight right out of the box. Really impressed. I'll probably throw some ceramic bearings into the diff to see if that improves the smoothness, still have a little graininess in the diff despite sanding the plates and cleaning and assembling with alcohol. But..., I never was good at building diffs. What can I say.

Interesting to note: A couple things, Kyosho radials are basically true out of the box if you mount them carefully with alcohol and then let them cure for 24 hours or more, I'll try and post a video of my method, but you basically just dunk the tire and the wheel (with tire tape on it already) into a bath of iso alcohol and then slide the wheel on and let the alcohol evap overnight. BUT I did notice that the GL rims are slightly canted, so you need to put the wheels outside edge down onto a piece of wax paper (the tire tape gets messy on your counters and sticks) and then put a cup on them or something. I did a couple sets at once and just left them, 24 hours is good but a little bit of full throttle will pop them if you're running a hot motor, 48 hours and they're super set. No gluing or truing needed for a straight line car with good grip on the bike trail and the low-pile carpet I tested it on. The DS Touring Tires also are good, and mount up pretty true aside from the extrusion scar, but that runs down after about 30 min of hard driving. The DS tires are better on carpet than the radials, it's pretty noticeable, at least at 30R. But the Radials are a little better than the DS tires on asphalt. The Radials are actually really great on the asphalt.

That's probably the most interesting thing I found out. Despite what a lot of people have told me, The GLR, is just simply amazing on asphalt. Coming from the larger classes, I'm shocked. Seriously. Get it off the RCP! Go outside, jack it up to max ride height and see if you don't have an absolute blast. Just SWEEP THE LOT FIRST!!! A pebble at full throttle and it will pull a 90 degree turn, into the curb. Also, get the front bumper, trust me.

That's about all I have for now, anyway, thanks again guys. I hope this information helps anyone who's thinking of picking one of these up, or has one and feels like it's unwieldy, they're great cars, they just need some careful tweaking! I'll report back when I've more fun stuff to report back.

UPDATE: Cleaned and rebuilt the OEM ball diff but threw in some ceramic 2.831 balls. Boy, did that make a difference!!! Smooth as butter now, tracks perfectly left and right on hard linoleum to test, solid under power and braking. It's really amazing what huge differences tiny changes can make in these cars.

I did notice that I had to dial down my D/R because my wheels were rubbing against the foam of the bumper. Might trim the foam, might leave it, not sure. Need to do a track test and see what my corning handing feels like.

Also, lost my servo screw, and I was outside on pavement, so I let that one go and ordered a set of screws. Threw some thread locker on the new one and I'm back in business. Going to go through and test out screw tightness after a couple more runs and see how everything has flexed and settled.

I need to probably switch to either 90% iso or stop dunking my tires and wheels when I mount them as well, one set still wants to slip off the GL rims, despite everything still being sticky. Not sure what's up with that, might have just used too much alcohol and the adhesive has given up. More experimentation is warranted there.

Cheers, all.

Last edited by teh_fox_king; 11-04-2022 at 08:15 PM.
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Old 11-13-2022, 02:19 PM
  #656  
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Hey there GLR gurus, I've got a setup/tweak/? one for you:

My GLR just absolutely loves to spin under power on left hand turns. The turning radius on the left hand side is also quite sharper compared to the right radius. I've checked my D/R, and my front end, and made sure there's more or less equal clearance, and at low speeds, the radii are pretty similar. So I'm wondering if it's a differential thing. And maybe a preload on my side shocks?

I've rebuilt my diff, thrown in some ceramic balls, it's super smooth. I've tested my tweak and it's pretty centre. The side shocks are preloaded to the point where the springs are just barely touching the collars when completely unloaded by eyeball. I don't know what else to do except just dive into some deep tuning to sort this out.

Anyone have any insight? Love to hear it!

Cheers!
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Old 11-13-2022, 02:58 PM
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The diff by nature increases the left turn.

Is the front of the chassis balanced? When laying out the electronics, I try to place it so that the chassis is even, which really helps with car feeling the same in both directions. If it isnt balance, adding a little weight helps. Can check balance by removing side shocks and lifting the front of the car.
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Old 11-13-2022, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU
The diff by nature increases the left turn.

Is the front of the chassis balanced? When laying out the electronics, I try to place it so that the chassis is even, which really helps with car feeling the same in both directions. If it isnt balance, adding a little weight helps. Can check balance by removing side shocks and lifting the front of the car.
That's all fantastic information! Thanks once again, EMU. The balance seemed good, but I didn't REALLY do my due diligence with a bare chassis and no suspension connected, I'll get back to you once I've sorted that out. I'm also going to tighten up my diff a little and see if that helps with the left/right balance of the driveshaft being slightly over driven during left turns. I was also considering going and throwing an aluminum shaft in as well, and see if the lower rotating mass helps to even out the left/right drive train balance.

UPDATE: Threw a lipo in and disconnected everything to check the chassis balance, and it's slightly weighted to the left, just slightly! It lifted ever so slightly on the right side first and settles just canted left when let to hang on it's own. I'll grab some weighted tape as soon as I can, need to order some other parts as well so screw it, guess the GLR is up on the stand and I'm fishing this week!

These are such great cars. Thanks again for the help!

Cheers!
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Old 11-13-2022, 03:42 PM
  #659  
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I prefer the steel shaft honestly, the difference in rotating mass is negligible due to the fact that it is central to the axis. The steel is more durable, and not as easily bent, which matters more for lexan cars than a gram or two...
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Old 11-13-2022, 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by EMU
I prefer the steel shaft honestly, the difference in rotating mass is negligible due to the fact that it is central to the axis. The steel is more durable, and not as easily bent, which matters more for lexan cars than a gram or two...
I'll take durability any day. Thanks for the heads up. The first day I got this thing powered and on tires I realised it was going to be a challenge to keep it in one piece!
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