I put a 3500kv PN brushless sensorless motor in the car for Saturday practice. I had some issues with racing on Friday... again. I tried to install the Swave E ESC and LD Power motor and it was DOA. When I put the car back to sensorless, I had no steering. Purely user error.

Back to Saturday. The car with 14g of lead in front of the battery secured to the front battery retainer/upper deck brace was spot on. The car with 7g was still too light and adding more weight only made it better. The motor gives the proper amount of top end and still has more to offer, but I didn't go up in pinion for the day. I stayed at 53/11 gearing and it matched the technicality of the track. On our very large local track, I only hit full throttle twice: The long front and back straights. I also decreased the rear diff tension. It's not slipping, but it's as loose as I can get it. The car was amazing. Could it run faster with more motor? In my opinion: No, any more motor than the 3500kv is too much and all you do is lose throttle control. I would even like to see a 2500 or 2000kv motor, something to match the speed of a stock Mini-Z or a 5000kv on NiMHs. I was .006 seconds slower than the mod Mini-Zs on fastest lap for Saturday, fast lap being 11.256. In the right hands, the car as set up could run a good .5 a lap faster. I'm coming off a few months away and still rusty and happy with my 11.261. With a bigger pinion/smaller spur the car is probably capable of 10.0.

liljohn
What a good a good review and update on your car. 1! Thank you

Your car looks good and professional. The info your leveeing is so helpful.

Our racing season has stopped for now so I have not went forward with the purchase of my GLR, as soon as our racing season starts back up I will get my GLR.

But be sure I will be flowing you in this thread for sure.

Tim

Another note,
The time of technology becoming small for proportional RC is here and is looking better every day...

I have wonted to have a winged slot car that is RC from a kid. Now I am going to get to have one.. yepie!


I agree with you on motor power. I think the motors to big too.
The technology for a smaller size motor needs to come, I mean smaller Dia. These little motors are putting out some serous good power today and these tracks are to small. Well that's just my thought...lol

The Mod Mini-Z were running 8600kv motors but at almost half the voltage and quite a bit more weight by comparison to the GLR. My 5000kv mini-z is about 0.8 seconds per lap slower than the GLR (for now). I run that car in our prostock class with an Audi R8 body.

I was just thinking :confused:
I had the Losi micro mini T at one time and bought the brushless system for it, that thing would pull front tires off the ground at times. I would like to try out that little motor sometime once I get my GLR.
It could have the power and the lower weight from that little motor with a smaller dia. All that would be a good thing. Just a thought...

I felt like the 1/12 cars need a 380 size motor system for a long time. Cut that weight out of the car and at will get faster, just my thought.

I fill this car is the new beginning of things to come.


.

Well the GL didn't make it to the track for racing this week as I was under the weather. The car was run by several of our local racers and the car is awesome running a 10.5 with the P1 body. The official fastest lap of 10.1 on the track is by a GLR running nearly the exact same setup as mine, but with an LM body. He's our idea guy and very good at it and one of our best racers. A few other took a turn as they have no experience with the 3500kv PN motor and they really liked it. The only changes to my car were up 2 pinion sizes to a 13 and one step up to yellow Kyosho side springs. The next thing to try is a taller and deeper back wing.

Well, back to the track tonight. Still running the sensorless 3500kv PN motor and GL ESC. My Swave E was defective, but is being replaced and in transit. I still need to get a handle on softening up the response of the current setup.

Breaking news X-Power is aquring GL.

We now have these cars stupid fast locally. We are dealing with a bit of rear end fade in a race as the rear tires get hotter, but that's about it. Lap times are still pretty consistent.

I've been thinking about picking one up myself. Just stumbled on this thread, thanks for sharing the information.

Great information @liljohn1064
I bought one my self a few weeks ago, enjoyed the built. Run the GL 3500KV motor (enough power), and the McLaren 12c body.

I did run 2-3 packs by now. My first impression is that it is hard to make it go straight while full accelerating (vs Miniz). A few things I tried were exponential on the radio, harder tires front, less ST travel, less TH highpoint, etc. The car felt better, but couldn't make it go 100% straight while hitting full TH.

Any suggestions? Did you have the same problems? Thanks

What tires are you using? Differential tension? Motor wires binding?

Have you used grease in the side dampers? Too much preload on side springs can cause the rear pod not to center enough. There should be minimal preload, if you find yourself adding preload too stiffen the shocks, then the springs are too soft.

the car is considerably lighter than a AAA mini-z, which will show by lack of traction out of the slower corners.

Where I buy GLR aluminum main chassis?
Is this chassis heavier than the original?

I have a GLR on the way. Looking forward to the build, going to outfit it with a 3500kv motor and keep it relatively stock at first, then try different springs.

I do want the metal chassis threat I have seen pictures of, this is not a GL-RACING part. When I find a source, I will post.

I had my first chance to run the GLR, with pan body. I used an ATM 3500kv motor, Kyosho 20d radial rear and LM 30 front on 19mm wheels. The car performed pretty well for a bench build built almost direct following the instructions. I would have liked some sort of list with the ESC for adjusting functions. I tried to find any information, but didnt. I hunted down pictures of the Atomic HW setup card, since they share the same ESC PCB, I assumed that they used the same firmware. From a quick run through, it seems to match up, and the setup seemed to respond to what I thought that I had programmed.

My first criticism of the chassis is the weight. It is VERY light. The weight of the lexan body was enough to free up the rear end in tight switchbacks. I want to increase the spring rate and viscosity of grease used in the dampers. I used Kyosho 15000 grease, and the kit springs. I found a source for the bronze cut chassis, a user on fbook that cuts them. There is no mass production of a chassis plate, I contacted GL to see if they would produce any, but they do not know if they will.

I feel that a car under 165g does not generate enough temperature in the tires to have consistent traction. With modified, I have always preferred around 180g I need to weigh my car, but I would think that it is well below 160g.

The fit and quality of the parts exceeded my expectation. The build went clean. Hardware was above average, and they include a spare of each screw at the minimum.

I have a spring set, to see if I can dial in the setup for the next race that I use it on. My general feeling is that I will drive this on carpet, and make a different mod car for RCP. I dont think that this light of a car will perform on RCP. Once I get the brass chassis, I will be able to see.