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Carisma GT24B rebuild and upgrades thread

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Carisma GT24B rebuild and upgrades thread

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Old 12-07-2017, 07:56 PM
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Default Carisma GT24B rebuild and upgrades thread

GT24B Rebuild and Upgrades!
*FEEL FREE TO POST PICTURES OF YOUR OWN GT24B ON THIS THREAD*

Background Info:

I've had my carisma GT24B for around 5 months now and I've been pretty content with it. It's durable, fast, and it's great value. $100 for a brushless rtr micro is a really good deal. I got mine for $85 shipped from a new in package auction on eBay, with the 1s LiPo included. It isn't perfect though. I've been somewhat disappointed with the esc (it cogs a lot), and the suspension (very bouncy). So a few weeks ago I decided to upgrade it. It wasn't in the best condition though, after months of flipping, crashing and tumbling it needed a rebuild.

Rebuild

This is before the rebuild. I forgot to take an after pic. You can see the wing was trashed.


Here it is without the top cover. I used some electrical tape to hold the antenna in place that's why it's there.


In the front, the hingepin on the lower left arm was broken.


In the rear, the drive cups were worn a bit and the holes that held in the wing mount were stripped.


These were all the new parts:
- Clear wing
- 2 pairs of dog bones
- 2 sets of diff outdrives
- A set of front arms
- A gearbox for the rear.

The other parts in the top left corner were spares;
- Driveshaft
- slipper set
- clear steering links
- 13t plastic pinion


Front and rear clips removed.


Replaced the broken arm.


Re-greased the diffs.


Installed the new gearbox.


I painted the wing black using tamiya PS-5.
That was it for the rebuild.
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Last edited by noel02; 12-07-2017 at 10:23 PM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:01 PM
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Upgrades pt.1


Here's a list of the first set of upgrades that have gone into the GT24B:
- Shoo-gooed and drywall taped the wing, as well as added an extra wing on top. The stock one is too flimsy, this really stiffened and buffed it up.
- Castle sidewinder micro 2 esc; 2mm bullet connectors, shortened wires, and I soldered on the switch from the stock esc. The ESC is mounted on top of the battery tray and servo mount.
- HPI TF-40 TX/RX; the receiver is de-cased. I used electrical tape to hold the antenna in place. It's mounted with double side tape on top of the battery tray.
- Hitec HS-55; shortened wired coming out of the bottom. I had to make a servo horn using a screw from a Losi Trail Trekker and a piece from one of it's body posts.
- MT tires; You'll have to mod the wrench that comes with the GT24 to be able to screw the nuts on with these. They're also too tall and don't allow the chassis to bottom out in the rear. They are grippy though.

Stock electronics out. I did remove the stock switch later on to solder to the castle ESC.


I loctited the motor into place. This setup will have a lot of power and I definitely don't want the motor to get hot, loosen up, and then strip a spur/pinion.


I cut a hole in the bottom part of the servo so I could route the wires through there and not through the side, which is where they originally come from. I covered the hole with E600/shoe-goo.


Here's the castle ESC


Everything soldered up. This actually took a lot of time because the ESC wires were too thick and didn't easily fit into the 2mm bullet connectors. I ended up trimming some of their width to fit them in. The connectors on the motor went on easily. Shortening the receiver wires was simple, I just used a set of new futaba plugs. Cut the wires down to length, spliced them, crimped the metal plugs on, and slid the plastic piece on. I ended up removing the plastic pieces later on to save space.


I had to trim the ESC casing to move the wires around.


I have two of these nano-tech 300 mAh 35-70c 2s LiPos. They work very well for their price and are a good fit in the battery tray.


Here's the HP TF-40 transmitter and the receiver. I used this combo because I had it in a broken car and I didn't feel like buying another TX/RX if I had this one available for the time being.


RX de-cased:


Testing the electronics: everything worked thankfully.


Here's the modified top plate. I cut too much on the front and the sides, but that's okay.


I leveled the top of the battery tray to fit the ESC and RX better.


I had to open this up so that the servo horn wouldn't run into the chassis.


I had to cut a little bit out of the servo tray for the HS-55 to slide in easily. Otherwise it's a press fit.


Aerial view of the servo:


I made the servo horn using a servo mount screw from my Trail Trekker, as well as a piece from one of its body posts.


The little ridges on the steering link had to be trimmed. The left one is before, the right one is after.


Body stickered up:


E600/shoe-goo and drywall tape on the wing to help stiffen and beef it up.


An extra wing as well. Just to make the wings bulletproof.


New buggy tires on stock orange rims. I used the softer set, shore 38 is what they're called. The harder ones are shore 55 I think.


MT tires:


A bunch of carisma parts I installed. These are the leftovers from the rebuild, and a couple of other things;
- new center driveshaft
- slipper assembly
- new rear diff (stock was really crunchy)
- new 13t plastic pinion
- new steering links


Everything installed:
I used electrical tape to cover the receiver, on the bullet connectors, and on the receiver plugs. It's just temporary, I'll switch over to heat shrink once I get the right sizes. I didn't want to stress the ESC/motor wires too much so I routed them over the chassis, not to the side like how it is stock. The body is a tight fit. I also changed the orientation of the battery wires, just soldered them to face towards the battery tray hole.












Here are some pics with the MT tires on:




Here are some pics with the buggy tires on:
I cut a little hole in the body for the receiver plugs to go through, I messed up so I used some drywall tape and shoe-goo to fix it.




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Last edited by noel02; 12-08-2017 at 08:02 PM.
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Old 12-07-2017, 10:15 PM
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Thoughts and feedback on the setup after upgrades pt.1

ESC:
Acceleration and takeoff is very smooth now. There's very, very little cogging, and the translation from forward to reverse is quick. Also, the ESC doesn't get hot like the stock one did. It stays cool. It did take some work to get in, but it was worth it. I feel like it has more torque now but the same top speed. It's still wicked fast.

TX/RX:
This change was less significant. The stock TX/RX had the same functions and adjustments as this one, except a 3rd channel, and it was also ergonomic.

Servo:
I actually noticed really poor steering (small radius) after switching to the HS-55. I think it's something in the steering assembly. I had this issue with the stock servo too, but it eventually improved over time, somehow, so I'll wait and see. Speed is similar.

Drive-train rebuild:
Everything is so much smoother now. There was binding in the center driveshaft, which is probably why I had some heat problems before, the rear diff was very crunchy, and the e-clips on the driveshaft weren't on very well. Replacing all these parts really helped.

Next ugprades:

I'm not done with the GT24B just yet. I still want to upgrade the shocks. The best way to go is with the Losi shocks, since they're much cheaper than spending $60 on a set from Carisma . Sadly, since the Losi micros are discontinued, I can't find the stock plastic ones anywhere, so I'll be going with the hot racing aluminum set instead. They're going to get the de-anodizing treatment, the ugly blue color just doesn't work for me. To mount them, I'll pick up a shock tower from matsucars on eBay made for the Losi shocks.



I'm also going to pick up a set of rally tires from Amain, since they stock parts for Carisma now, as well as a new front bumper (stock one was worn down so I cut it off), and a spare 59t spur.
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Last edited by noel02; 12-07-2017 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 12-12-2017, 09:17 PM
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Great work, and finally ive found someone else who seems to be into these as much as me! Ive got a couple on the go at the moment ... made a c/f chassis for my 'heavyweight' truggy and a modified standard chassis for my lightweight indoor basher.
What gearing are you running?
I also noticed my standard electronics getting quite warm after 5mins of indoor track driving but this cooled considerably after cutting the windscreen out.
Following the thread with anticipation for what else you have in store for yours. Nice job!
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Old 12-24-2017, 11:12 AM
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Upgrades Pt.2

I got everything in for the GT24B, itís basically done now. I just need to replace the spur and pinion because theyíre chewed up. Currently running a 14t brass pinion/59t spur.

The switch from the stock ESC broke when I was trying to push it back into the chassis slot. I replaced it with a random switch I had. Itís too big for the chassis slot so I mounted it on top of the ESC.

- The HS55 servo broke so I dropped in an HS65HB. It fixed the small steering radius, is way more responsive, and is karbonite geared. A lot better than the HS-55. I used one of the mounting screws that came with it to make a servo horn.
- I wrapped the receiver, the motor-ESC plugs, and the RX plugs in heatshrink.
- Installed the matsucars shock towers.
- Hot Racing Losi micro aluminum shocks; the O-rings are a little too big so you have to build the shock differently. They come ready to be filled but I took them apart to grease up the o-rings. You have to slide the shaft through the body first, then slide the o-rings on the shaft all the way down, then the plastic piece, and then tighten the lower cap. I tried doing it the normal way and ended up tearing apart the o-rings. My front left shock is leaking because of that. I ended up not de-anodizing them because they donít look so bad with the silver springs installed. Theyíre a huge improvement over the stock shocks.











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Old 12-24-2017, 12:20 PM
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Looks good
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Old 12-24-2017, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Billy Kelly View Post
Looks good
Thanks Billy! It was a lot of fun to build and it runs even better than before.
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Old 12-30-2017, 07:55 PM
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Great amount of info! Thanks for the details you included, I'll be doing some of what you did soon when my GT24s get here...and good thing you showed us how the servo wires have to run thru the bottom, I ended up picking a different servo before I placed my hobbyking order.

Btw i think the link to this thread you posted in the other gt24 thread is broken.
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Old 12-31-2017, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Cirasa View Post
Great amount of info! Thanks for the details you included, I'll be doing some of what you did soon when my GT24s get here...and good thing you showed us how the servo wires have to run thru the bottom, I ended up picking a different servo before I placed my hobbyking order.

Btw i think the link to this thread you posted in the other gt24 thread is broken.
Thanks! The servo wires donít need to run through the bottom, that mod just makes sure they donít get caught on the driveshaft.

Thanks for he heads up on the link, Iíll fix that ASAP.
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Old 01-18-2018, 01:33 PM
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Love what you did! ...curious, how much did the shocks and shock towers (to accept those shocks) run you total? ...I would like to upgrade my shocks, ...trying to decide between the route you took or the Carisma ones that are made for it. $60 for the Carisma ones is steep ...but wondering if its worth it/how much i'll save going the other route like you?
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Old 01-18-2018, 05:07 PM
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Thanks! Not finished yet, I need to wrap this build up with a few more parts here and there.

Total I spent ~$45 for this setup. The matsucars towers are $15 and the Hot Racing Shocks are $30. If you can get the plastic losi shocks, those cost $10-$15 but are very hard to find now, it’ll cost around $25-$30.

I’d definitely recommend the route I went. Just be careful if you rebuild the hot racing shocks like I did, you have to install the shaft first and then the o-rings and the lower cap. If you try to push the shaft through, you’ll tear the o-rings because they’re too thick. The hot racing shocks also might bind a little, but they’ll wear in.
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Old 03-07-2018, 03:36 PM
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If you can get the plastic losi shocks, those cost $10-$15 but are very hard to find now, it’ll cost around $25-$30.
I did find a pair of the plastic Losi shocks, NIB ...and got the matsucars towers ..total price $22!

The plastic Losi shocks work very well. Probably as good as the Carisma ones (I have two GT24b's ...one w/ Losi shocks the other w/ Carisma).
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Old 03-14-2018, 01:44 PM
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anyone know,
what is the stock size of the pinion gear? is it 13t or 14t?
...just asking as I don't want to open everything up if its already a 14t. If is stock 13t, thinking I may bump up the top speed a tad and move up to a 14t.
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Old 03-14-2018, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c View Post
anyone know,
what is the stock size of the pinion gear? is it 13t or 14t?
...just asking as I don't want to open everything up if its already a 14t. If is stock 13t, thinking I may bump up the top speed a tad and move up to a 14t.
Mine came stock with a 12t pinion
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:14 AM
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Is this car still supported?
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