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Old 07-18-2005, 06:48 PM
  #7126  
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sir joelt, ano po ba ung universal shafts? hehe.. d ko po alam un, baguhan lng po ako...
about po nman sa armature (which is alam ko dahil sa course ko ngyon sa college ay mechanical engg) subukan ko nlng buksan para makita kung pinupudpud ung armature mismo hindi ung bushing.. and sir triny ko ikot ung spur gear(un po ung gear na nakakonect sa motor?) ok nman.... bka dun tlga sa universal shaft( d ko alam kung ano un, pwde nyo po describe? losi po ung akin xxxs)??????? thanks marami sir
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Old 07-18-2005, 06:52 PM
  #7127  
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ROBO - My LCG and BD are currently setup with the rear roll center higher than the front. That is, the ball studs in the rear have spacers while the ones in the front do not. . . . . . picked it up from the SDW. Is this how it should be to gain turnin?

ROUGH - Ang pag-alog ng bushing mo ay epekto ng paggamit mo ng GLO parati. Yung kain naman sa isang side ay either epekto ng di sinasadyang pagkabagsak ng motor sa lupa o malupit na tilapon ng kit mo.
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Old 07-18-2005, 07:56 PM
  #7128  
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Droop
Sorry for asking a stupendous question but I'm still confused--HELP

In my LCG and BD, it has a 5mm ride height all around.

When I try to lift the car the arms take a long time to lift from the ground, that is Droop? What happens if I adjust the grub screw in the arms to lessen this from hapening? It is also the same with the rear.

By adjusting these--is that the roll center?

Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:02 PM
  #7129  
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GLO is the reason why I gave you the EPIC motor, nag karon ng play!!! But its still fast!!!!!
And about the modifications that I did---- hindi ko naman nilagyan ng bearing eh di gayan nun nasa down under!!!!!

JOELT: 40K????? nope, maybe aabot yun 23t ko pag lagyan ko ng bearing hehehehehehee!!! And to think your 40k is a 27t stock!! Wild talga yun!!!

Kumuha na din ako ng 3700---loose lang!!!! Lumakas loob ko umutang ulit!! Ikaw kasi eh hehehehehehehehe!!!!!

Hope the weather clears by saturday!!!
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:09 PM
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Doc:

Droop = 1. aka downtravel; 2. The amount usually in mm by which you can lift the chassis until the tires leave the ground.

Droop usually becomes confusing because people don't specify how they're measuring it and on what part of the car their taking their reading. Droop guages also will differ from one manufacturer to another.

Me, I take droop measurements at the axle. heheheh... This is one of the settings that I prefer setting at home before going to the racetrack.

Iba yung roll center... Mas maganda sa tracks na lang natin pag-usapan. Mahirap magkwentuhan ng geometry pag walang papel, lapis at protractor heheheh...

GLO - malamang yun nga ang dahilan... yun bang binigay mo sa akin na EPIC yun yung ni-polish mo dati na "spins like bearing" hehehe.. Kasi ganun din yung motor ko na umaalog eh. Spins like bearing dati... ngayon spins like bearing pa din... bearing na kulang ang bulitas.
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:18 PM
  #7131  
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Originally Posted by highwayman
ROBO : couldn't open the link...


MOTO : dala ka uli ng corned beef, egg and sardines !!!
You have to register sa site na yun, only takes less than 5min Then click on the link again after activating your membership. Maganda yung post regarding roll center. You can use it for your LOSI in the future
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:26 PM
  #7132  
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Originally Posted by joelt
ROBO - My LCG and BD are currently setup with the rear roll center higher than the front. That is, the ball studs in the rear have spacers while the ones in the front do not. . . . . . picked it up from the SDW. Is this how it should be to gain turnin?
jt: which ball studs are your adding spacers to? the on-board ones that are screwed onto the bulkheads? if this is where you added the spacers, then that means you were actually lowering your roll center, not making it higher. but if the spacers were placed under the ball studs in the front or rear carriers, then you are right, doing so does make roll center higher at that end of the car. i plan on adjusting roll center by playing with (adding/removing) the spacers under the arm mounts.

anyway, if we go by what hodge says, in theory a low roll center in front and higher rear should help your LCD transfer weight to the front end easier when off power since this particular car is a rear motor mounted model. best is to try it out and see what happens. would be good if you could also share your findings here after you've tried or tested the settings so that everyone can also learn from your experience. ......para naman din masingitan ng medjo "productive" discusssions yung mga threads natin dito! minsan minsan lang naman. hehehe .... syempre masaya pa rin yung kulitan natin dito.

Last edited by ROBORAT; 07-18-2005 at 11:52 PM.
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by lem2
Droop
When I try to lift the car the arms take a long time to lift from the ground, that is Droop? What happens if I adjust the grub screw in the arms to lessen this from hapening? It is also the same with the rear.

By adjusting these--is that the roll center?
lem: yup, thats exaxtly what droop is - the amount of downtravel the suspension arms have when the car is lifted off the ground. but nope, this is different from roll center although it also helps manipulate weight transfer hence is a very good tool to fine tune your ride. here's general idea of what more or less droop does to your car.

front:
LESS DROOP - car runs flatter, more responsive (twitchy); gives better off power steering but takes away on power. picture a 12th scale car - practically zero suspension droop. those cars can carve into the tightest corner with ease but you'll have to compensate with other set up options to get better on-power (ie. tire selection, etc.)

MORE DROOP - car feels more consistent/less twitchy; gives better on power but less off power steering.

rear:
LESS DROOP - makes rear end rotate through corners better; gives feeling of more steering coz the car can transfer weight to the front easier.

MORE DROOP - generally better rear traction (especially mid corner).

disclaimer: i am by no means an expert on this so try at your own risk (in short, walang sisihan)! but these seem to work for me when i set up my car.
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Old 07-19-2005, 02:23 AM
  #7134  
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Originally Posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
chambalero - nice to see you again sa tracks!!! ano ready ka na sa 15 heats?

to all - see you this sat sa fort!!!
its nice to be back ano ba yang 15 heats na sinasabi mo? hehe....
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Old 07-19-2005, 03:46 AM
  #7135  
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Originally Posted by babytoy101
hehehe! sana pagbalik ko nandun ap si rough!

balugz! wag ka muna magtinda ng chinis na mani!
Practice next month? Salpak mo na yan Reedy mabuchi mo.
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Old 07-19-2005, 12:54 PM
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striker: sorry bout the delay of DC... i sold my REVO 8x2 na getting ready for the COBALT... ARGH!!! see ya tom at the fort for 23-turn streakin
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ROBORAT
jt: which ball studs are your adding spacers to? the on-board ones that are screwed onto the bulkheads? . . . . . dito.
Ganun na nga pala . . . high role in front, low role in the rear. Tapos, 1mm anti-squat, no kickup. Front shocks positioned in the outer most hole of the shock tower and arms. Middle shock tower hole naman for the rear, outermost hole for the arms.

So far so good for my BD with blue and green rayspeed springs. Good turn in and on power steering sya even when using mod motors. Kaya, I want to try sana yours first before making any changes on mine.

For the LCG naman, medyo oversteer sya entering the curve since I use this for stock and 19t. When I switched naman to yellow, para syang understeer. Compensated na lang by using a Stratus 3 body. . . . My SDW still has much much better turn-in and on power steering.

Droop nga pala for me is 5 in front, 4 at the back. I use the front outermost tip of the arm for the front and the rear outermost tip of the arm for the rear. Ala AE TC3.

Disclaimer to other readers: I am by no means in the same caliber as ROBO when it comes to setting up a ride or racing.
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by joelt
Ganun na nga pala . . . high role in front, low role in the rear. Tapos, 1mm anti-squat, no kickup. Front shocks positioned in the outer most hole of the shock tower and arms. Middle shock tower hole naman for the rear, outermost hole for the arms.
medjo and layo ng set-up mo from mine. especially the rear mounting positions (or did u mean middle hole on arm and outter most on tower?). but if it works for you then stick with it. of course you can try my BD. if you like it then you can just copy my set-up. the set-up works actually quite well with the mazda as well.

Originally Posted by joelt
For the LCG naman, medyo oversteer sya entering the curve since I use this for stock and 19t. When I switched naman to yellow, para syang understeer. Compensated na lang by using a Stratus 3 body. . . . My SDW still has much much better turn-in and on power steering.
instead of switching from blue to yellow spring in front, why dont you stick with the blue and instead lay your shock in one hole in the tower. it should help tame your off power steering a bit and improve on-power.

Originally Posted by joelt
Droop nga pala for me is 5 in front, 4 at the back. I use the front outermost tip of the arm for the front and the rear outermost tip of the arm for the rear. Ala AE TC3.
my droop rite now is 4.5 front and rear. although i set my droop from the lowest point of the c-hub rather than the arm so technically i have even less droop than you (probably around 6mm on the gauge) in front.

disclaimer: i urge you to follow exactly what i say although i really dont know what im talking about!
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Old 07-19-2005, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by rbboy
striker: sorry bout the delay of DC... i sold my REVO 8x2 na getting ready for the COBALT... ARGH!!! see ya tom at the fort for streakin
pare as far as I recall iba ang ibig sabihin ng streakin'

http://www.streaking.org/
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Old 07-19-2005, 10:20 PM
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PITSHOP BOSS - Langya, don't give anyone here ideas about doing the same thing sa tracks ninyo. Lalong-lalo na yung isang tao dyan na willing gawin ang lahat, maiwan lang sa A Main.

ROBO - Middle hole nga ng front arms for both BD and LCG.
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