UJ Bergegar
05-09-2011, 10:51 PM
#1
UJ Bergegar
Nk tanye..nape bile steering pusing habis sambil tekan minyak, kat UJ akan vibrate mcm gile?
Utk mklum:
Chasis fijon 416..knuckle da kikis bg angle dpt byk, pastu UJ pakai square 60 degree x silap..sila2 lah bantu...
Utk mklum:
Chasis fijon 416..knuckle da kikis bg angle dpt byk, pastu UJ pakai square 60 degree x silap..sila2 lah bantu...
05-11-2011, 04:42 PM
#3
semua kereta bergegar bila pusing steering habis sambil on throtel..lebih2 lagi kalau dh modified bg steering banyak..try guna ECS (equalized corner speed)
05-11-2011, 05:29 PM
#4
05-11-2011, 07:33 PM
#5
Setahu saya UJ bergegar kalau throtle di punch kan. jika Throtle rendah atau kelajuan rendah UJ tak gegar. Jadi waktu kita mengambil apa selekoh sekalipun adakah Throtle kita tarik?. Tidak kan.. jadi tidak ada masalah pada kondisi kereta. bagi saya semua kereta racer pun bergegar UJ jika Full Throtle dan Stering di belokkan. Kalau UJ Pendek tak mungkin berlaku kalau menggunakan Part Original
Sebelum itu pastikan Stering jangan terlebih.. Kalu Stering terlebih pada setting Radio menyebabkan kereta sukar dipandu pada selekoh kemungkinan kereta akan over shut atau terpusing. disamping itu juga jika Peratus Stering terlebih boleh mengakibatkan keroskan pada survo dan part2 lain juga terlibat seperti sangkut pada absober ke apa ke. itu pun boleh menyebabkan UJ bergegar pada kadar malampau
Sebelum itu pastikan Stering jangan terlebih.. Kalu Stering terlebih pada setting Radio menyebabkan kereta sukar dipandu pada selekoh kemungkinan kereta akan over shut atau terpusing. disamping itu juga jika Peratus Stering terlebih boleh mengakibatkan keroskan pada survo dan part2 lain juga terlibat seperti sangkut pada absober ke apa ke. itu pun boleh menyebabkan UJ bergegar pada kadar malampau
05-11-2011, 07:43 PM
#6
traditional CVD @ UJ only has s single axis unlike real driveshafts, or ECS. The rotational speeed does not fluctuate if the whole shaft is at zero angle. The more azis you have on the outdrive, the smoother the rotationals speed is at any give angle.
SOmething like that la..
SOmething like that la..
05-11-2011, 07:45 PM
#7
ecs guna untuk menghilangkan gegaran semasa selekoh...boleh menambah kelajuan semasa mengambil selekoh..juga untuk menambah traction
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2348
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7S95NcOxug
http://www.nexusracing.com/product_i...oducts_id=2348
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7S95NcOxug
Last edited by azwan; 05-11-2011 at 07:57 PM.
05-12-2011, 01:50 AM
#8
Tech Initiate
Setahu saya UJ bergegar kalau throtle di punch kan. jika Throtle rendah atau kelajuan rendah UJ tak gegar. Jadi waktu kita mengambil apa selekoh sekalipun adakah Throtle kita tarik?. Tidak kan.. jadi tidak ada masalah pada kondisi kereta. bagi saya semua kereta racer pun bergegar UJ jika Full Throtle dan Stering di belokkan. Kalau UJ Pendek tak mungkin berlaku kalau menggunakan Part Original
Sebelum itu pastikan Stering jangan terlebih.. Kalu Stering terlebih pada setting Radio menyebabkan kereta sukar dipandu pada selekoh kemungkinan kereta akan over shut atau terpusing. disamping itu juga jika Peratus Stering terlebih boleh mengakibatkan keroskan pada survo dan part2 lain juga terlibat seperti sangkut pada absober ke apa ke. itu pun boleh menyebabkan UJ bergegar pada kadar malampau
Sebelum itu pastikan Stering jangan terlebih.. Kalu Stering terlebih pada setting Radio menyebabkan kereta sukar dipandu pada selekoh kemungkinan kereta akan over shut atau terpusing. disamping itu juga jika Peratus Stering terlebih boleh mengakibatkan keroskan pada survo dan part2 lain juga terlibat seperti sangkut pada absober ke apa ke. itu pun boleh menyebabkan UJ bergegar pada kadar malampau
bang zainal, die main drift tu..
sbb tu chasis fijon, chasis spec drift...
sini ramai lyn touring...
tu pasal nak angle besar...
UJ bergegar tu perkara normal...
kalau tyr bergegar, bru la mslhnye...
05-12-2011, 07:11 AM
#9
ok..bkan uj sje yg bergegar, tyr pun bgegar skali..efek dari gegaran tu buatkan skru akan longgar sbb gegaran kuat td..sblm ni mmg pkai ECS tp mslh nyer ble ecs ni koner kiri @ kanan, dkt sambungan ecs tu agak bgerak ke dpan atau ke blkg mase tgh gerakkan steering..mase gune ecs ni, chub pkai yg Xray punye sbb ade ruang yg besar utk pgerakkan sambungan ecs tu..so skg ni aku tgh pkai Chub ta05 yg ader caster 4 degree, so ruang utk ecs tu xcukup besar, so pkai la uj square yg...
05-12-2011, 07:33 PM
#10
The regular UJ's will experience this "vibrations" the moment it passes a certain angle. This is an mechanically inherent problem. The ECS UJ's circumvents this inherent problem by dividing the total angle into 2 UJ's as a single joint.
The true "UJ" that does not have this problem is the Constant Velocity(CV) joints similar to the ones we have in the cars we drive to work everyday.
At present there is only 1 company that makes this for RC car, but there were reliability issues(mostly inflicted by crashes) in their early releases. However their later versions seems to have this problem fixed.
Here is the link to this awesome looking products;
http://www.litemodz.com/specials.php
The true "UJ" that does not have this problem is the Constant Velocity(CV) joints similar to the ones we have in the cars we drive to work everyday.
At present there is only 1 company that makes this for RC car, but there were reliability issues(mostly inflicted by crashes) in their early releases. However their later versions seems to have this problem fixed.
Here is the link to this awesome looking products;
http://www.litemodz.com/specials.php
05-12-2011, 08:45 PM
#11
Most carefully designed cars (like your TRF car) have cleverly disguised bump-stops preventing the steering from turning the UJs too far. Either the steering rack will run into the front bulkhead or the knuckle arm will run into the C-hub first. By cutting and grinding away some of these areas to get "more steering" you could be making the UJ turn at an angle it is not designed for. Even if you limit your steering with the EPA setting on your radio, the UJs might still find their way to these extreme angles through external forces (like when bumped by another car).
Also, I'm not familiar with the Square UJ, but you might want to check it out as a possible part of the problem. The Tamiya knuckle, C-hub, suspension and diff cups are designed to work with the Tamiya UJ. Ideally, the line of the knuckle kingpins should go straight through the centre of the driveshaft joint. If they are too far apart, the driveshaft will slide in and out of the diff cups when you turn your steering. This could result in binding and hopping, among other bad things.
05-13-2011, 11:50 PM
#12
When stationery, it's easy to bend the UJ to a very wide angle and be fooled into thinking that this is the limit or max angle that the UJ can operate at. However, as you rotate the UJ in your hand, you will find that it cannot maintain this angle. At some point in the rotation, the UJ can only bend at a much smaller angle and this smallest angle is the true working limit of the driveshaft.
Most carefully designed cars (like your TRF car) have cleverly disguised bump-stops preventing the steering from turning the UJs too far. Either the steering rack will run into the front bulkhead or the knuckle arm will run into the C-hub first. By cutting and grinding away some of these areas to get "more steering" you could be making the UJ turn at an angle it is not designed for. Even if you limit your steering with the EPA setting on your radio, the UJs might still find their way to these extreme angles through external forces (like when bumped by another car).
Also, I'm not familiar with the Square UJ, but you might want to check it out as a possible part of the problem. The Tamiya knuckle, C-hub, suspension and diff cups are designed to work with the Tamiya UJ. Ideally, the line of the knuckle kingpins should go straight through the centre of the driveshaft joint. If they are too far apart, the driveshaft will slide in and out of the diff cups when you turn your steering. This could result in binding and hopping, among other bad things.
Most carefully designed cars (like your TRF car) have cleverly disguised bump-stops preventing the steering from turning the UJs too far. Either the steering rack will run into the front bulkhead or the knuckle arm will run into the C-hub first. By cutting and grinding away some of these areas to get "more steering" you could be making the UJ turn at an angle it is not designed for. Even if you limit your steering with the EPA setting on your radio, the UJs might still find their way to these extreme angles through external forces (like when bumped by another car).
Also, I'm not familiar with the Square UJ, but you might want to check it out as a possible part of the problem. The Tamiya knuckle, C-hub, suspension and diff cups are designed to work with the Tamiya UJ. Ideally, the line of the knuckle kingpins should go straight through the centre of the driveshaft joint. If they are too far apart, the driveshaft will slide in and out of the diff cups when you turn your steering. This could result in binding and hopping, among other bad things.
thanks sim..
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
