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Old 10-29-2001, 09:11 AM
  #1591  
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Originally posted by dtm
Manticore- You have 666 posts (not for long!) The sign of the devil!!!
Manticore is devil as a matter of fact !
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Old 10-29-2001, 09:16 AM
  #1592  
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Anyone know how to change the Eagle power supply to use with 110 V?
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Old 10-29-2001, 05:59 PM
  #1593  
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Originally posted by Kingcrab
Anyone know how to change the Eagle power supply to use with 110 V?
there should have a small metal plate comes together with the power supply. you need to bridge two of the terminals on the input/output port to make ti 110V compatible.
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Old 10-29-2001, 06:13 PM
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Originally posted by dtm


Oh my GOD!.... gear it even higher!! You will be able to fry an egg on your motor after you have finished!!
my gearing was not too high last time and the motor was not really hot. I'll check the condition of the brush and the comm and decide whether I should gear it higher
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Old 10-29-2001, 06:17 PM
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Originally posted by ernestf
u guys want a JMRCA standard stock race next time ????
yeah, why not 23t racing is another kind of fun
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Old 10-29-2001, 06:53 PM
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Manticore: Bridge over the two terminal that have a red select on the bottom?
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Old 10-29-2001, 08:45 PM
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Originally posted by Kingcrab
Manticore: Bridge over the two terminal that have a red select on the bottom?
I am not sure about it. Need to look at my supply at home and tell you later tonight.
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Old 10-29-2001, 11:03 PM
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Manticore: Thanks! Please tell me tonight because I'll go to race in Japan tomorrow. I need to change it b4 packing.
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Old 10-30-2001, 01:01 AM
  #1599  
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Originally posted by Mars
my gearing was not too high last time and the motor was not really hot. I'll check the condition of the brush and the comm and decide whether I should gear it higher
Mars: since you rmotor is a closed end housing. Do you do the water quench run-in that people use to do with the old Tamiya silver cans?

I like the idea of a removable armature to true the comm.... it would all be too easy to fry the motor with a bit of overgearing!
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Old 10-30-2001, 01:53 AM
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Originally posted by dtm


Mars: since you rmotor is a closed end housing. Do you do the water quench run-in that people use to do with the old Tamiya silver cans?

I like the idea of a removable armature to true the comm.... it would all be too easy to fry the motor with a bit of overgearing!
you may laugh, I did nothing to it, just bolt in and run
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Old 10-30-2001, 02:42 AM
  #1601  
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Post Tires for 1/18.....

How much is the high grip tires for MICRO RS4 in HKD????
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Old 10-30-2001, 04:49 AM
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Originally posted by Kingcrab
Manticore: Thanks! Please tell me tonight because I'll go to race in Japan tomorrow. I need to change it b4 packing.
Bridge the terminal with the silver label "Select" which is the far end from the voltage adjusting volume.
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Old 10-30-2001, 06:25 AM
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when you gear the car a bit high, the motor would over heat...would this cause the comm to be burnt too?? (change color)

hey....i found out something...if you dont have a comm lathe...you could get those 1000 sand paper, and sand the comm...just keep turning while sanding and add water when your doing that...the comm could turn out nice and shiny and smooth...a lathe does a much better job...but the method i mentioned saves $$...hehehe..

correct me if im wrong!
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Old 10-30-2001, 06:34 AM
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Originally posted by Disaster999
when you gear the car a bit high, the motor would over heat...would this cause the comm to be burnt too?? (change color)

hey....i found out something...if you dont have a comm lathe...you could get those 1000 sand paper, and sand the comm...just keep turning while sanding and add water when your doing that...the comm could turn out nice and shiny and smooth...a lathe does a much better job...but the method i mentioned saves $$...hehehe..

correct me if im wrong!
The reason why we use a lathe is that we need to cut the comm in almost absolute round to avoid the brushes from vibration. An uneven wore comm surface will cause the brushes vibrate and lost close contact with the comm and therefore slow down speed.
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Old 10-30-2001, 07:19 AM
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Yes, Manticore is correct. A worn comm will not actually be round. It may look to be round but in actual fact the comm between the different copper segments would have worn down further than the rest of the comm. If you sand the comm all you do is clean up the burnt marks but the comm is still not round. The important part of what the lathe does is make your comm round again so the brushes don't bounce as the motor spins. Bouncing leads to sparks which causes much quicker burning of the comm!

A good secondhand lathe should not set you back too much and in the long run it will work out cheaper!
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