What it cost to race on-road electric
01-16-2012, 11:59 AM
#1
What it cost to race on-road electric
This is just to give people an idea of what it cost to put a new on-road electric car together to race. The prices are based on the idea of buying good equipment, so that you don't end up buying twice (i.e. buy cheap, then find out it's junk, then have to buy better gear). Total is plus or minus $100 for miscellaneous stuff not listed (i.e. solder, connectors, bearing lube, diff grease, different spur gear, cutters, pliers, etc, etc.) - or if you can shave off a few dollars here and there to save some money.
If you have better prices or want to modify or add to this, please post below. We can also put up info using the prices of used gear and less expensive new gear. This is a "work in progress", so nothing here is set in stone. Let's work together to put up some numbers as to what someone can "realistically" expect to pay to play.
1/10 New Equipment, 17.5 boost class
1/10 New Equipment, To race 17.5 GT (no boost) class only
- Less expensive car and ESC
- One vs two cans of paint
- Other gear is the same as listed above
Edits:
- Changed lipo battery price from $120 to $37 for Gens Ace Lipo, 50C
- Changed transponder price from $96 to $80 for MTX Transponder
- Changed separate lexan tools to Du Bro combo, $55 to $33
- Changed Tool kit from $45 to $20
- Changed $80 soldering station to $25 soldering station from Radio Shack
- Changed Lipo charger from $119 to $44 Thunder A6
If you have better prices or want to modify or add to this, please post below. We can also put up info using the prices of used gear and less expensive new gear. This is a "work in progress", so nothing here is set in stone. Let's work together to put up some numbers as to what someone can "realistically" expect to pay to play.
1/10 New Equipment, 17.5 boost class
Code:
"Ready to Race" equipment New to New to
Hobby on-road
T.O.P Photon 1/10 Li-Po Spec Touring Car Kit (USA Edition) 360.00 360.00
Tekin RS Sensored Brushless ESC/Motor Combo (17.5T) 250.00 250.00
Futaba S9551 low-profile servo (1) 70.00 70.00
Rubber Tires (Set of 4) 27.00 27.00
Futaba 3PRKA 2.4GHz FHSS Radio System w/R203GF Receiver 70.00 -
Futaba R203GF Receiver - 40.00
Protoform Mazda Speed6 Body 26.00 26.00
Thunder AC6 Charger 44.00 -
Lipo battery (1) 37.00 37.00
Body Clips 5.00 -
Transponder 80.00 -
Lexan Paint (2) 12.00 12.00
Pinions (4) 20.00 20.00
Sub Total 1,001.00 842.00
The "other stuff"
Du-Bro Body Reamer & Scissors Set 13.00 -
Dynamite Traxxas Startup Tool Set 20.00 -
Radio Shack Soldering Work Station 20/40W 25.00 -
Sub Total 58.00 -
Total 1,059.00 842.00
Setup station, unless you borrow someone else's
Hudy All-In-One Set-Up Solution For 1/10th Touring Cars 329.00
Hudy Universal Set-Up System For 1/10th Touring Cars 149.00
Grand Total 1,388.00 991.00
- Less expensive car and ESC
- One vs two cans of paint
- Other gear is the same as listed above
Code:
New to New to
Hobby on-road
Tamiya TA06 Pro Chassis Kit 250.00 250.00
Speed Passion Cirtix Series "Stock Club Race"
ESC and Motor Combo (17.5T) 99.00 99.00
Sub Total 734.00 581.00
The "Other Stuff" 58.00 -
Total 792.00 581.00
Setup station, unless you borrow someone else's 329.00 149.00
Grand Total 1,121.00 730.00
- Changed lipo battery price from $120 to $37 for Gens Ace Lipo, 50C
- Changed transponder price from $96 to $80 for MTX Transponder
- Changed separate lexan tools to Du Bro combo, $55 to $33
- Changed Tool kit from $45 to $20
- Changed $80 soldering station to $25 soldering station from Radio Shack
- Changed Lipo charger from $119 to $44 Thunder A6
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-23-2012 at 12:55 PM.
01-16-2012, 01:20 PM
#2
You can save a bit in the transponder and battery:
MRT transponder: $80
Gens Ace LiPo: $37 (50c) $35 (40c)
Also if you race the GT class there are less expensive "spec" ESCs and motors...but the RS really is the best way to go IMHO. I've also used an old full sized servo instead of a low profile servo...it works but isn't as cool as the low profile servo.
MRT transponder: $80
Gens Ace LiPo: $37 (50c) $35 (40c)
Also if you race the GT class there are less expensive "spec" ESCs and motors...but the RS really is the best way to go IMHO. I've also used an old full sized servo instead of a low profile servo...it works but isn't as cool as the low profile servo.
01-16-2012, 02:09 PM
#3
You can save a bit in the transponder and battery:
MRT transponder: $80
Gens Ace LiPo: $37 (50c) $35 (40c)
Also if you race the GT class there are less expensive "spec" ESCs and motors...but the RS really is the best way to go IMHO. I've also used an old full sized servo instead of a low profile servo...it works but isn't as cool as the low profile servo.
MRT transponder: $80
Gens Ace LiPo: $37 (50c) $35 (40c)
Also if you race the GT class there are less expensive "spec" ESCs and motors...but the RS really is the best way to go IMHO. I've also used an old full sized servo instead of a low profile servo...it works but isn't as cool as the low profile servo.
Those lipos are very inexpensive! They are ROAR approved, so I assume they must be okay. How are you hooking them up to the balancer / charger balacing ports?
An old full sized servo will certainly work. The additional few grams of weight can be offset with some balancing weights.
Edit: Okay, I see that the JST/XH port comes standard on the Hyperion charger taps.
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-16-2012 at 02:27 PM.
01-16-2012, 02:15 PM
#4
01-16-2012, 02:33 PM
#5
Hobby Partz also has a reasonably priced starter box that looks just like the Dynamite one that I bought but for half the price or less than any other starter box out there! http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-b7060-...tarterbox.html That's always been somewhat of a pet peeve of mine that starter boxes are so expensive when they shouldn't be.
01-16-2012, 03:02 PM
#6
I updated the list to reflect the suggested changes for the battery and transponder and we've already saved $99! 
The servo things is really a toss up, because it really depends if you have a extra servo sitting around. I'm assuming that someone isn't going to move servos between cars (i.e. off-road -> on-road ... and back again for the next race).
The servo things is really a toss up, because it really depends if you have a extra servo sitting around. I'm assuming that someone isn't going to move servos between cars (i.e. off-road -> on-road ... and back again for the next race).
01-16-2012, 06:07 PM
#7
Du-Bro Body Reamer & Scissors Set $13.75
radioshack 40 watt iron $25
dynamite tool set $20
onyx 235 charger $90
op list does not seem friendly to a beginner list should be based on the budget of the consumer. If I was new to the hobby I would quit just by looking at the cost list. You dont need the best to have fun. Heres a basic list for a noobie that just wants to race 1 class twice a month and be just as fast as anyone else in the class.
GT car
Tao6 pro 250
motor n esc 100
tires 25
battery 40
body 30
charger thunder AC6 44
radio 3pkrs 70
tools 20
iron 20
1 can paint 6
total $604
we should make a list for F1 and 1/12 classes. Very friendly classes for the wallets!
radioshack 40 watt iron $25
dynamite tool set $20
onyx 235 charger $90
op list does not seem friendly to a beginner list should be based on the budget of the consumer. If I was new to the hobby I would quit just by looking at the cost list. You dont need the best to have fun. Heres a basic list for a noobie that just wants to race 1 class twice a month and be just as fast as anyone else in the class.
GT car
Tao6 pro 250
motor n esc 100
tires 25
battery 40
body 30
charger thunder AC6 44
radio 3pkrs 70
tools 20
iron 20
1 can paint 6
total $604
we should make a list for F1 and 1/12 classes. Very friendly classes for the wallets!
01-16-2012, 09:13 PM
#8
- Speed Passion Cirtix Series "Stock Club Race" ESC and Motor Combo (17.5T) - $99.00
- Dynamite Traxxas Startup Tool Set - $19.99
The Thunder A6 seems like it can do the job. What advantages are there to getting the Onyx instead of the Thunder?
Is this the $25 soldering iron from Radio Shack that you're talking about?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...50#tabsetBasic
- Dynamite Traxxas Startup Tool Set - $19.99
The Thunder A6 seems like it can do the job. What advantages are there to getting the Onyx instead of the Thunder?
Is this the $25 soldering iron from Radio Shack that you're talking about?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...50#tabsetBasic
Last edited by rmdhawaii; 01-16-2012 at 09:26 PM.
01-16-2012, 09:42 PM
#9
I don't know anything about the TA06 other than what the website says. So if a guy starts in GT, decides he likes RC and wants to move up to the 17.5 boost class, would the car still be considered competitive or would he have to get something else? What would be the disadvantages of running the TA06?
01-16-2012, 11:18 PM
#10
I don't know anything about the TA06 other than what the website says. So if a guy starts in GT, decides he likes RC and wants to move up to the 17.5 boost class, would the car still be considered competitive or would he have to get something else? What would be the disadvantages of running the TA06?
01-16-2012, 11:26 PM
#11
- Speed Passion Cirtix Series "Stock Club Race" ESC and Motor Combo (17.5T) - $99.00
- Dynamite Traxxas Startup Tool Set - $19.99
The Thunder A6 seems like it can do the job. What advantages are there to getting the Onyx instead of the Thunder?
Is this the $25 soldering iron from Radio Shack that you're talking about?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...50#tabsetBasic
- Dynamite Traxxas Startup Tool Set - $19.99
The Thunder A6 seems like it can do the job. What advantages are there to getting the Onyx instead of the Thunder?
Is this the $25 soldering iron from Radio Shack that you're talking about?
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...50#tabsetBasic
As for the onyx, that was the first lipo charger I got and it worked good. As for the A6 we had a racer use one for several seasons without issue. As far as difference Im not sure.
for the same price the TP610 has better specs and 80w charging power compared to the 50w hyperion. I was able to get my 610 to charge to 8.5A on AC power. Another plus it comes with a balance board that can do thunder power and standard balance connectors. Also the software interface was loaded with simple features and nice.
01-23-2012, 12:53 PM
#12
Per goots' suggestions, I made a bunch of changes to the first post.
You save about $267 if you're just going to run GT. If you decided you're going to run boost, then you just have to upgrade the ESC to the Tekin RS, which is about $170.
If you guys want to add 1/12 and F1, you're going to have to provide a list of gear, cause I don't know what to buy for those specific cars.
You save about $267 if you're just going to run GT. If you decided you're going to run boost, then you just have to upgrade the ESC to the Tekin RS, which is about $170.
If you guys want to add 1/12 and F1, you're going to have to provide a list of gear, cause I don't know what to buy for those specific cars.
01-24-2012, 10:43 AM
#13
this post from stitchy should explain all.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10218285-post1572.html
01-24-2012, 11:16 AM
#14
Very capable car from the get go.
this post from stitchy should explain all.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10218285-post1572.html
this post from stitchy should explain all.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/10218285-post1572.html
I really like the guy's story. You don't see that too much on R/C tech.
03-14-2012, 07:26 PM
#15
Thanks for posting this info. I'm just getting back into R/C cars after about 12 years and so much has changed... brushless, lipos, 2.4 ghz are all new stuff for me.
Back in the day, I quit R/C because me and my firends couldn't find any good places to bash without getting kicked out or hassled. When I found out about the Kunia track, first thing I did was pull out all my gear from storage (tamiya ta03 and ff02) and headed down to Kunia. LOL. Still works and I still can't drive! So rusty....but it's so fun to run on a nice track like this.
I'm currently in the process of upgrading my electronics and was wondering where are folks getting their brushless 17.5 combo from? Also batteries and chargers. A lot of the places I've looked up seem to be out-of-stock on 17.5 stock esc/motor combos.
I'd like to keep using my old AM and FM futaba radios to save money. But are these even allowed anymore?
Thanks again!
Paul
Back in the day, I quit R/C because me and my firends couldn't find any good places to bash without getting kicked out or hassled. When I found out about the Kunia track, first thing I did was pull out all my gear from storage (tamiya ta03 and ff02) and headed down to Kunia. LOL. Still works and I still can't drive! So rusty....but it's so fun to run on a nice track like this.
I'm currently in the process of upgrading my electronics and was wondering where are folks getting their brushless 17.5 combo from? Also batteries and chargers. A lot of the places I've looked up seem to be out-of-stock on 17.5 stock esc/motor combos.
I'd like to keep using my old AM and FM futaba radios to save money. But are these even allowed anymore?
Thanks again!
Paul