VTA Isn't Cheap!
I have seen several people mention VTA as a good cheap racing solution where cars are equal and it comes down to mostly driving for the winning person. Curiosity and thoughts that I may enjoy VTA had me looking into building a VTA car. Using an HPI E10 as the chassis, I began a build. Going by the USVTA rulebook, and using the cheapest stuff I could find new, the build cost me roughly $550 on tower. Wow, thats not cheap, and only gives me a single battery to run.
Do locals enforce every USVTA rule? As in, could I use my current non-ROAR approved batteries as long as they are 5000ma or less? Any motor other than the Novak choices allowed locally? The motor, esc, and batteries are the biggest cost. Even if it was Tamiya closed silver can I would be much happier. What do you folks think? |
Originally Posted by Ninja
(Post 8811305)
I have seen several people mention VTA as a good cheap racing solution where cars are equal and it comes down to mostly driving for the winning person. Curiosity and thoughts that I may enjoy VTA had me looking into building a VTA car. Using an HPI E10 as the chassis, I began a build. Going by the USVTA rulebook, and using the cheapest stuff I could find new, the build cost me roughly $550 on tower. Wow, thats not cheap, and only gives me a single battery to run.
Do locals enforce every USVTA rule? As in, could I use my current non-ROAR approved batteries as long as they are 5000ma or less? Any motor other than the Novak choices allowed locally? The motor, esc, and batteries are the biggest cost. Even if it was Tamiya closed silver can I would be much happier. What do you folks think? With most current lipo chargers capable of 10 - 20 amp charge rates you only need 1 battery. The battery will be able to be charged faster than the motor will cool down between runs. I know many people use Tower as a price benchmark, but they really are not the cheapest. Anyway, VTA cars do not tax the performance envelope like regular TC racing so there is no real disadvantage in buying a used (couple models old) car to run VTA. I'm sure there are many deals still floating around for (example) an 08 or 09 T2 Xray or 415 etc Tamiya. I can't speak for everybody, but I think the real draw of VTA is that everybody has the same rules. You can go to any track running VTA and not have to worry about regional rule differences. |
The E10 is a vanity car. Its made to have pretty lugs and brake disc. However if there is any racing class where it might thrive, its VTA.
I think one of the biggest mistakes you made in your build was using the word NEW. As far as powerplants go, most clubs are more strict about using motors than they are about bodies. Its best to just get a Havok 25.5 combo and dont look to change the class. As far as the battery goes thats up to the club. Really all of its up to the club. But if a club says that they go by official USVTA rules then usually they will follow them to the letter or they will declare any liberties allowed. ie- your battery. |
The biggest problem with the Havok 25.5t combo, is finding one in stock somewhere. My price includes having to buy an $85 motor, just to pull it apart and drop in the $40 25.5t rotor. Maybe I just need to use a Tamiya TT-01 chassis, and buy from different places to get the electronics.
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VTA is like everything else, it can be as cheap as you want it to be. But it always gets out of control to try and stay competitive. Mini cooper are about the best thing to keep it cheap, you can't do a whole lot but even those all of a sudden you see alluminum everywhere. All my cars are cheap, but I also always finish towards or in the back of the pack but its all fun. Miss running some mini coopers and Touring Cars.
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Randy if you still have a mini, maybe we can put together some mini racing this summer.
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I thought Minis too. I like the new body options for the Tamiya M05 chassis. Is the HPI Cup Car legal for mini racing?
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I would say not.
If you go with a Sprint 2 combo and a Havok 25.5 combo you are at about $350 still needing a 2s lipo and a battery. |
Always ready with the Mini Hairy, thats still the most fun I've had yet racing RC. Miss having 6 or 7 running at Primetime. More laughing during those races than people complaining about someone who sucks.
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Truggies Suck!
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Originally Posted by Randy Nukem
(Post 8812958)
Always ready with the Mini Hairy, thats still the most fun I've had yet racing RC. Miss having 6 or 7 running at Primetime. More laughing during those races than people complaining about someone who sucks.
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Originally Posted by Randy Nukem
(Post 8812958)
Always ready with the Mini Hairy, thats still the most fun I've had yet racing RC. Miss having 6 or 7 running at Primetime. More laughing during those races than people complaining about someone who sucks.
June to run Mini in the TCS race.... it is allways a blast. |
Originally Posted by snoopyrc
(Post 8812991)
Truggies Suck!
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Originally Posted by Randy Nukem
(Post 8812958)
Always ready with the Mini Hairy, thats still the most fun I've had yet racing RC. Miss having 6 or 7 running at Primetime. More laughing during those races than people complaining about someone who sucks.
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Like stated already it can be as cheap as you want it to be. When I built my last 1 I only had like $150 in it. Of course there have been some changes with motor esc and batteries but still can be done cheap. Buying new isnt the way to go for anything when trying to go cheap though. I picked up a cyclone S complete for $100 when i built my last 1...just have to look around.
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