NEXUS - Next Race 11/20
11-21-2010, 05:38 PM
#31
Ok, broke down and picked up a TC3 I was watching on ebay. Factory Team version, has all electronics, but I figure I will keep the radio (Futaba 2PL, not 2.4), receiver, and maybe servo to start. It has a brushed setup, but I figure at a minimum I need a brushless setup and a lipo before I start racing. It will give me a chance to start driving and setting up the car though, and help me figure out if I really want to do the TC thing, or if 12th might be a better way to go. The car was cheap ($85) so I am ok if I want to change my direction later on.
Can I get a basic explaination of how motors work these days? I know "turns", but it seems a lot of BL motors are listed in Kv instead? How does an 8000Kv motor compare to a 17.5? And is a 17.5 brushed equal to a 17.5 brushless?
I was leaning torwards the Tekin RS (not pro), as I have always been a Tekin fan, and they seem to be pretty robust and adjustable units, and they can handle brushed and brushless.
Lipo batteries are such a foreign concept to me, I'll worry about that later, but if I can get a basic running car, I can at least start playing on wednesday's and see what I can break.
PS. If this stuff would be better in another thread, I can do that instead of hijacking this one.
Grant
Can I get a basic explaination of how motors work these days? I know "turns", but it seems a lot of BL motors are listed in Kv instead? How does an 8000Kv motor compare to a 17.5? And is a 17.5 brushed equal to a 17.5 brushless?
I was leaning torwards the Tekin RS (not pro), as I have always been a Tekin fan, and they seem to be pretty robust and adjustable units, and they can handle brushed and brushless.
Lipo batteries are such a foreign concept to me, I'll worry about that later, but if I can get a basic running car, I can at least start playing on wednesday's and see what I can break.
PS. If this stuff would be better in another thread, I can do that instead of hijacking this one.
Grant
11-21-2010, 05:53 PM
#32
Thank you Chris! I am sure I will take you up on that. I am sure kicking myself for selling everything way back when. Even things like the sets of pinions scare me to want to replace.
Ran up to Hobbytown (hadn't been there before) to see what they had. It looks like the have some basics for the TC3/NTC3, so I am not totally stuck, but I will be trying to find some spare parts as I go. Bumpers and shock towers seem to be what I would break in the past. They were clearing out some TC bodies at 50% off, so picked one up ($12 body works for me), and I won't feel too badly about destroying it.
I really like the looks of the Xray's, but for the cost, I couldn't say no to the TC3, and it will at least let me get my feet wet. It's a slippery enough slope as is.
Grant
Ran up to Hobbytown (hadn't been there before) to see what they had. It looks like the have some basics for the TC3/NTC3, so I am not totally stuck, but I will be trying to find some spare parts as I go. Bumpers and shock towers seem to be what I would break in the past. They were clearing out some TC bodies at 50% off, so picked one up ($12 body works for me), and I won't feel too badly about destroying it.
I really like the looks of the Xray's, but for the cost, I couldn't say no to the TC3, and it will at least let me get my feet wet. It's a slippery enough slope as is.
Grant
11-21-2010, 06:12 PM
#34
Thank you Chris! I am sure I will take you up on that. I am sure kicking myself for selling everything way back when. Even things like the sets of pinions scare me to want to replace.
Ran up to Hobbytown (hadn't been there before) to see what they had. It looks like the have some basics for the TC3/NTC3, so I am not totally stuck, but I will be trying to find some spare parts as I go. Bumpers and shock towers seem to be what I would break in the past. They were clearing out some TC bodies at 50% off, so picked one up ($12 body works for me), and I won't feel too badly about destroying it.
I really like the looks of the Xray's, but for the cost, I couldn't say no to the TC3, and it will at least let me get my feet wet. It's a slippery enough slope as is.
Slippery it is
Grant
Ran up to Hobbytown (hadn't been there before) to see what they had. It looks like the have some basics for the TC3/NTC3, so I am not totally stuck, but I will be trying to find some spare parts as I go. Bumpers and shock towers seem to be what I would break in the past. They were clearing out some TC bodies at 50% off, so picked one up ($12 body works for me), and I won't feel too badly about destroying it.
I really like the looks of the Xray's, but for the cost, I couldn't say no to the TC3, and it will at least let me get my feet wet. It's a slippery enough slope as is.
Slippery it is
Grant
11-21-2010, 08:45 PM
#38
Glad to hear we have another racer! Getting in used on the cheap is smart. It let's you gauge your interest. I did the same in summer 08. Now I am hooked.
Kv refers to the max rpm's of the motor. I forget the details but the higher the Kv ratin the more rpm's. Brushless are awesome. Zero maintenance compared to brush. Just dont overheat them.
Lipos are intimidating at first but a good charger takes all the guess work out. Just dont discharge them below 3 volts. A goo es like tekin will let you dial in a voltage cutoff limit to protect against this. Lipos come in 3.7 volt cells. A 1s Pack means it is a pack made of 1 cell with a total output of 3.7 volts. 2a means a 2 cell pack for 7.4 volts. 30c, 40c etc refers to the max amp draw sustained by the pack. Higher means more amp can be drawn and equates to more punch. Also, do not leave these in the trunk if the car or garage. They HATE heat. Heat will destroy them.
I am biased to 12 scale for indoors. But when we run outdoors in the summer I all for touring
Kv refers to the max rpm's of the motor. I forget the details but the higher the Kv ratin the more rpm's. Brushless are awesome. Zero maintenance compared to brush. Just dont overheat them.
Lipos are intimidating at first but a good charger takes all the guess work out. Just dont discharge them below 3 volts. A goo es like tekin will let you dial in a voltage cutoff limit to protect against this. Lipos come in 3.7 volt cells. A 1s Pack means it is a pack made of 1 cell with a total output of 3.7 volts. 2a means a 2 cell pack for 7.4 volts. 30c, 40c etc refers to the max amp draw sustained by the pack. Higher means more amp can be drawn and equates to more punch. Also, do not leave these in the trunk if the car or garage. They HATE heat. Heat will destroy them.
I am biased to 12 scale for indoors. But when we run outdoors in the summer I all for touring
11-21-2010, 09:39 PM
#41
Ok, broke down and picked up a TC3 I was watching on ebay. Factory Team version, has all electronics, but I figure I will keep the radio (Futaba 2PL, not 2.4), receiver, and maybe servo to start. It has a brushed setup, but I figure at a minimum I need a brushless setup and a lipo before I start racing. It will give me a chance to start driving and setting up the car though, and help me figure out if I really want to do the TC thing, or if 12th might be a better way to go. The car was cheap ($85) so I am ok if I want to change my direction later on.
Can I get a basic explaination of how motors work these days? I know "turns", but it seems a lot of BL motors are listed in Kv instead? How does an 8000Kv motor compare to a 17.5? And is a 17.5 brushed equal to a 17.5 brushless?
I was leaning torwards the Tekin RS (not pro), as I have always been a Tekin fan, and they seem to be pretty robust and adjustable units, and they can handle brushed and brushless.
Lipo batteries are such a foreign concept to me, I'll worry about that later, but if I can get a basic running car, I can at least start playing on wednesday's and see what I can break.
PS. If this stuff would be better in another thread, I can do that instead of hijacking this one.
Grant
Can I get a basic explaination of how motors work these days? I know "turns", but it seems a lot of BL motors are listed in Kv instead? How does an 8000Kv motor compare to a 17.5? And is a 17.5 brushed equal to a 17.5 brushless?
I was leaning torwards the Tekin RS (not pro), as I have always been a Tekin fan, and they seem to be pretty robust and adjustable units, and they can handle brushed and brushless.
Lipo batteries are such a foreign concept to me, I'll worry about that later, but if I can get a basic running car, I can at least start playing on wednesday's and see what I can break.
PS. If this stuff would be better in another thread, I can do that instead of hijacking this one.
Grant
11-22-2010, 05:06 AM
#42
Glad to hear we have another racer! Getting in used on the cheap is smart. It let's you gauge your interest. I did the same in summer 08. Now I am hooked.
Kv refers to the max rpm's of the motor. I forget the details but the higher the Kv ratin the more rpm's. Brushless are awesome. Zero maintenance compared to brush. Just dont overheat them.
Lipos are intimidating at first but a good charger takes all the guess work out. Just dont discharge them below 3 volts. A goo es like tekin will let you dial in a voltage cutoff limit to protect against this. Lipos come in 3.7 volt cells. A 1s Pack means it is a pack made of 1 cell with a total output of 3.7 volts. 2a means a 2 cell pack for 7.4 volts. 30c, 40c etc refers to the max amp draw sustained by the pack. Higher means more amp can be drawn and equates to more punch. Also, do not leave these in the trunk if the car or garage. They HATE heat. Heat will destroy them.
I am biased to 12 scale for indoors. But when we run outdoors in the summer I all for touring
Kv refers to the max rpm's of the motor. I forget the details but the higher the Kv ratin the more rpm's. Brushless are awesome. Zero maintenance compared to brush. Just dont overheat them.
Lipos are intimidating at first but a good charger takes all the guess work out. Just dont discharge them below 3 volts. A goo es like tekin will let you dial in a voltage cutoff limit to protect against this. Lipos come in 3.7 volt cells. A 1s Pack means it is a pack made of 1 cell with a total output of 3.7 volts. 2a means a 2 cell pack for 7.4 volts. 30c, 40c etc refers to the max amp draw sustained by the pack. Higher means more amp can be drawn and equates to more punch. Also, do not leave these in the trunk if the car or garage. They HATE heat. Heat will destroy them.
I am biased to 12 scale for indoors. But when we run outdoors in the summer I all for touring
I have been reading up on Lipo's as well, but knowing what the numbers mean, compared to what you actually use to run is the part that confuses me. Back when I raced it was all Nimh and you ran 6 cell packs, 10th and 12th scale. The good packs you made with matched cells, and if you did on-road road course it was saddle packs, offroad and on-road oval was stick packs. So if multi-cell lipos are higher voltage, wouldn't that narrow down what you can use, and not really make them interchangeable? TC's would use 2s Lipos? And what kind of Mah rating?
Also, i was surprised to see a secondary battery for the rx and servo. Is that pretty common these days? I am still trying to get my arms around the idea of 2.4Ghz and not needing crystals, and seeing radios with 2 antennas that just confuse me.
I have to admit, Chris telling me about asphalt in the summer did sway me a bit towards the TC. Of course, it's still early, and knowing my luck, in a year I be trying to budget in a 12th scale and a WGT as well.
Grant
11-22-2010, 09:21 AM
#43
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