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Old 09-17-2018, 01:43 AM
  #316  
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Originally Posted by TC5
Also , I saw your post WRT the lower hinge pin shims - "flat on the deck will give s feeling of more traction" , doent this then make the roll center too low ?

Kind regards
I honestly think both of your sentences are correct, i use mines with 1.5mm shims with 0.5mm anti dive front, but race only on asphalt.
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:17 AM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by TC5
Hi Gary,

I was looking at the manual and it's kind off unclear as to which way the arms must be be installed.

For the front , the red dot is on the FR , which gives two shock positions on the lower arm
For the rear the red dot is RR , which only gives one lower position on the arm.

Is the above correct ?

Also , I saw your post WRT the lower hinge pin shims - "flat on the deck will give s feeling of more traction" , doent this then make the roll center too low ?

Kind regards
Originally Posted by jorgesimes
Correct, if you look to the roll bar mount on the arms you will see also there is only one way you can mount them. BTW not sure if your mounting a new car, but if so please glue the arm inserts.
Jorgesimes is correct on the arm orientation, the ball stud for the torsion bar mount only allows for the arm to be mounted one way only.

TC5 "roll center too low", well its definitely lower than what we had before, but also consider that its easier to add shims to raise it, then wishing that you could get the mount lower than what you had. So saying that, if your coming from a previous car, you'll find that you need to add 0.5mm shims to get a similar setup. The ability to go lower, or to run the mounts without shims should be a benefit if your running on high traction such as CRC Black carpet, and your having traction roll issues.
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Old 09-17-2018, 12:43 PM
  #318  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Jorgesimes is correct on the arm orientation, the ball stud for the torsion bar mount only allows for the arm to be mounted one way only.

TC5 "roll center too low", well its definitely lower than what we had before, but also consider that its easier to add shims to raise it, then wishing that you could get the mount lower than what you had. So saying that, if your coming from a previous car, you'll find that you need to add 0.5mm shims to get a similar setup. The ability to go lower, or to run the mounts without shims should be a benefit if your running on high traction such as CRC Black carpet, and your having traction roll issues.
Thanks Chaps , with regards to the ball stud for the ARB , you can mount this with the arm flipped - just trows the angle out - correct ? Actually a better angle than stock. In the kit position the links lean outward if you get my point.

I will try 0.5mm mount shims and revert back - all this time I have been using 1mm
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Old 09-17-2018, 12:46 PM
  #319  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
I honestly think both of your sentences are correct, i use mines with 1.5mm shims with 0.5mm anti dive front, but race only on asphalt.
Hi Jorge,

Any specific reason for the anti dive ? I only race outdoor asphalt as well. Generally low to medium grip.
I have changed the shock pistons to 3x1.0mm from the kit 4x1.0mm (are those the measurements ? ) The three hole works much better with the PSS - I also heard the three hole was in the prototype kits as well.

Regards
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Old 09-17-2018, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TC5
Thanks Chaps , with regards to the ball stud for the ARB , you can mount this with the arm flipped - just trows the angle out - correct ? Actually a better angle than stock. In the kit position the links lean outward if you get my point.

I will try 0.5mm mount shims and revert back - all this time I have been using 1mm
Better if you have a ball stud the correct diameter for the arb ball cup, you could mount the link on the outer hole of arm and not have the excessive angle.........(this may be what you mean already, idk)

The 3 hole are the preferred pistons, they pack better. The 3x1.0 means 3 holes each being 1.0mm diameter.

Antidive will settle the rear of the car during braking as well as plant the rear a little better on acceleration.
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TC5
Hi Jorge,

Any specific reason for the anti dive ? I only race outdoor asphalt as well. Generally low to medium grip.

Regards
Johnny answered the theorical part of it, but i have been using anti dive since i had a TRF416, so long way ago, for me it works better, maybe because of the tracks i race or it just suits better my driving style. Sorry but you have to test it.

I have been running 1.5mm because i did some measures with the rccrewchief software and that was the only way i could achieve values next to most TC cars, but again i only race outdoor asphalt.

EDIT: Sorry my shims are FF0.5 FR1 RF1.5 RR1.5 in mm
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Old 09-18-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
Johnny answered the theorical part of it, but i have been using anti dive since i had a TRF416, so long way ago, for me it works better, maybe because of the tracks i race or it just suits better my driving style. Sorry but you have to test it.

I have been running 1.5mm because i did some measures with the rccrewchief software and that was the only way i could achieve values next to most TC cars, but again i only race outdoor asphalt.

EDIT: Sorry my shims are FF0.5 FR1 RF1.5 RR1.5 in mm
Yes RCCrewchief confirms the lower than normal roll center...........or at least from the previous models, I see some of the new cars are following that trend and the lower suspension blocks are around 0.5mm lower than previous versions. Pretty sure its due to the high traction surfaces that we seem to run on lately.
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Old 09-18-2018, 10:56 AM
  #323  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Better if you have a ball stud the correct diameter for the arb ball cup, you could mount the link on the outer hole of arm and not have the excessive angle.........(this may be what you mean already, idk)

The 3 hole are the preferred pistons, they pack better. The 3x1.0 means 3 holes each being 1.0mm diameter.

Antidive will settle the rear of the car during braking as well as plant the rear a little better on acceleration.
Yeah , found that out early , the 3 x 1,0 worked way better than the 4x1.0 .

I will try the anti dive .
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:00 AM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
Johnny answered the theorical part of it, but i have been using anti dive since i had a TRF416, so long way ago, for me it works better, maybe because of the tracks i race or it just suits better my driving style. Sorry but you have to test it.

I have been running 1.5mm because i did some measures with the rccrewchief software and that was the only way i could achieve values next to most TC cars, but again i only race outdoor asphalt.

EDIT: Sorry my shims are FF0.5 FR1 RF1.5 RR1.5 in mm
Thanks for this Jorge

What RC are you chasing ? With my latest set up , I am after -6.57 front and -6.29 rear with a 47.16 % F/R Roll couple and 1.00 Chassis roll sensitivity.

Is there some where I can send my RC3 chassis file to for review ? I will also send to Bob for up load - have a look at my dimensions. A 1,5mm pin shim gives ~ -3.5mm RC

Kind regards
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:14 AM
  #325  
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
Yes RCCrewchief confirms the lower than normal roll center...........or at least from the previous models, I see some of the new cars are following that trend and the lower suspension blocks are around 0.5mm lower than previous versions. Pretty sure its due to the high traction surfaces that we seem to run on lately.
Yeah , according to ex-team drivers this helped with front end smoothness and bite at the same time
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Old 09-18-2018, 11:28 AM
  #326  
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Originally Posted by TC5
Thanks for this Jorge

What RC are you chasing ? With my latest set up , I am after -6.57 front and -6.29 rear with a 47.16 % F/R Roll couple and 1.00 Chassis roll sensitivity.

Is there some where I can send my RC3 chassis file to for review ? I will also send to Bob for up load - have a look at my dimensions. A 1,5mm pin shim gives ~ -3.5mm RC

Kind regards
Well since there isn't any "standard" values, i looked into the xray values. T4'17 kit setup is -5.46 front and -4.93 rear with 46.13% F/R Roll and 1.00 CRS. A setup from Bruno gives -5.81 front and -4.18 rear with 45.48% F/R Roll and 1.01 CRS. So i worked on something around this numbers, but i did some "changes" to standard manual car, like 0.5 shims between front hub and conical shim, steering carbon arms under the front hubs, rear hex wheel plus 1.5mm spacers and 1mm shims below the top deck.
You can pm your email and i will also send you my files.

Last edited by jorgesimes; 09-18-2018 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:04 PM
  #327  
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It is very interesting, but how can you correctly place the center of mass? I'm not sure the D10 has the same as the D09...
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
... 1mm shims below the top deck.
.
I tried the 1mm under the top deck on mid traction carpet track and the consistency of the car went out.....took them out and the car was back on song. Strange as it has helped out on other cars I've run. I'm hoping that VBC releases a 1.6 top deck just to try out, but I think it needs to be reconfigured a little bit as well.....maybe connected in some mid points with the option to cut it for flex. Victor said they are working on several items with some new releases to come.
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Airwave
It is very interesting, but how can you correctly place the center of mass? I'm not sure the D10 has the same as the D09...
If I understand your question, its part of the initial model setup information entered when you configure the rccrewchief program.
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Old 09-18-2018, 03:00 PM
  #330  
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Originally Posted by jorgesimes
Well since there isn't any "standard" values, i looked into the xray values. T4'17 kit setup is -5.46 front and -4.93 rear with 46.13% F/R Roll and 1.00 CRS. A setup from Bruno gives -5.81 front and -4.18 rear with 45.48% F/R Roll and 1.01 CRS. So i worked on something around this numbers, but i did some "changes" to standard manual car, like 0.5 shims between front hub and conical shim, steering carbon arms under the front hubs, rear hex wheel plus 1.5mm spacers and 1mm shims below the top deck.
You can pm your email and i will also send you my files.
I also follow what some of the other numbers are from other drivers setups, but I also fall back on the guideline that Bob suggests. The dynamic model really shows some good information as a reference.
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