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Old 10-05-2017, 09:12 AM   #31
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I'm on the track twice a week and have only bent one hing pin in 4 years, and a bd8 and T4-17 both broke on the same corner during warm up laps on the same run. Turns out it was an issue with the clik trak.
It seems that xray did indeed have the edge in durability during the t3 period, but everyone has caught up now.
I have seen some defective xray c-hubs. A friend of mine broke multiple c-hubs in one weekend, and each one had an air pocket in the casting at each break location.
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Old 10-06-2017, 08:50 AM   #32
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... I love my Xray cars but if you read T4'18 thread, they are currently dealing with some imperfections. I have yet to build a perfect kit from any manufacture although I will say that the Schumacher has come the closest to perfection so far. Anyway, D10 on the way and if I win the arm wrestling match with my bro, I'll report on it's build quality and durability.
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Old 10-06-2017, 10:53 AM   #33
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... I love my Xray cars but if you read T4'18 thread, they are currently dealing with some imperfections. I have yet to build a perfect kit from any manufacture although I will say that the Schumacher has come the closest to perfection so far. Anyway, D10 on the way and if I win the arm wrestling match with my bro, I'll report on it's build quality and durability.
Schumacher near perfect, is that including the terrible kit bearings that come standard with the car, and the diff that leaks if you want it smooth and free?
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:04 AM   #34
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Schumacher near perfect, is that including the terrible kit bearings that come standard with the car, and the diff that leaks if you want it smooth and free?
never had an Issue with the Schui from the MI3 thru the MI6Evo , maybe operator error??
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Old 10-06-2017, 11:15 AM   #35
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never had an Issue with the Schui from the MI3 thru the MI6Evo , maybe operator error??
I run a shop, just had one recently we sold and after only a handful of meetings being ran in 17.5 blinky some of the bearings have already failed. Schumacher know about the problem but still nothing has been changed. I expect more from them, they have some talented designers and engineers working for them, small things just bringing the car down. The performance on track once upgraded isn't in question
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Old 10-13-2017, 04:53 PM   #36
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never had an Issue with the Schui from the MI3 thru the MI6Evo , maybe operator error??
lay shaft bearings are the main fault on mi6 leading to many a buggered spur gear

belts on xray as they dont use bando ones most other comanys do

i have done a hing but i race my car nearly every weekend (D09)

yoko dont get to see them much so cant say

every car has a fault or most have an extra of costing 480-500 but if it wins races or has top driver running them u can charge big cash
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Old 10-14-2017, 12:03 AM   #37
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Who has tried this car? How is it performing?
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Old 10-14-2017, 12:58 PM   #38
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Don't feel duped now the D10 is coming, the D08 Dynamics is a G-R-E-A-T car, and unless you are really, really, REALLY good and racing at a very high level (like regional/national level, in other words: racing against a field of sponsored drivers) - the D08 DE will serve you well.

I've got one as well, and a TC7 - the D08 hands down. . .

Although, Christmas is just a couple months away. . . [may be time to upgrade]

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I'm always about a Generation behind, and it never fails.

Picked up a sweet never run DO8 Dynamic from a local racer who built it and never ran it for a screaming deal....

AAAANNNNNNND A New version is released a month later!


GAH!


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Don't worry, the d08 dynamics is a good car.
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:57 AM   #39
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The D10 starts shipping next week,in stores by month end is what I've been told
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Old 10-19-2017, 07:56 PM   #40
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The D10 starts shipping next week,in stores by month end is what I've been told
Time to change from ARC to VBC and give it a shot. Can't go wrong with this kit and all the options it has and for that price point too!
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Old 10-24-2017, 12:38 PM   #41
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instruction manual is online now. M4 kingpin hardware is promising.
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:15 PM   #42
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WildFireD10 Dynamics Edition is arrived and ready to ship.

https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...?s_maker_id=87



FYI, Thanks.
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:28 PM   #43
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I looked at this ad in my email from TQ today and the car does look fantastic!
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Old 11-03-2017, 09:27 PM   #44
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Decisions, decsions.,... trying not to rush.
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:59 AM   #45
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Got my first ever VBC, I'm on stage 18 of the build, and I've already encountered a few problems.

1) The Kawada Spur they provide does not fit. The center pulley has a 3 prong setup for holding the spurs in place and the spurs are designed to go on a 4 prong setup. I tried this numerous times to make sure I wasn't making a mistake, and no... the provided spur does not fit. (Minor issue for me as I use 48 Pitch but I needed to buy a new spur and wanted one on in the interim)
2) The front aluminum spool shaft and spool outdrives don't seemed to be machined accurately. To insert the cups I had to add some oil and gradually tighten and loosen the screw to get them to fit in. They are so tight that if I want to replace any component I will need to just buy a new one. Compared to my Yokomo where they slipped in with ease, these are just way too tight. (Also, they are on a 30 degree offset to each other which seems weird but should be fine)
3) The last one, the warning for those who are up to stage 18, bag marked step 8. CHECK THE HOLE DEPTH FOR THE SWAYBAR BALL-JOINT!!! The ball-joint they provide and inform you to use is a 6mm long thread. The hole depth is only 4mm and the instructions do not mention anything about a shim for that stage. I tried screwing in a tapping screw and ended up stripping the plastic out. Since the front and back arms are the same I do have another that I can swap it for, but the information and parts provided are clearly wrong. They do provide a 2mm shim in the packet right next to the ball joints, so I assume that is for this section.

Edit: Actually scrap that last bit... I may need a new arm since the front uses the same hole. Awesome... =__= Might try locktight cause it's only a swaybar.

Note: Stage 19 says Bag Marked 18-20. That's an error.

==========
4) The shims for the rear arm (2mm, 1mm, arm, 1mm) are too much and force the rear block to kick back a bit. I had to remove the front 1mm shim and replace it with a 0.5mm. The arm is still a little sticky so may eventually replace the rear shim with a 0.5 as well and maybe a 0.2mm. Yes, I checked the cups to ensure they were in correctly.
5) Turnbuckles in stage 20 are not 32mm as mentioned in the book, they are 28mm in the box. The measurement provided for the setup of 17mm gives the wheels something like a 5 degree inverted camber, so adjust these to 12mm instead as that looks closer to the correct setup.

Just to be clear as well, the build is quite nice, so I'm not a disgruntled customer. These are just first impressions.

Last edited by NuttsnBolts; 11-05-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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