Like Tree55Likes

VBC D10

Reply

Old 09-19-2018, 12:01 PM
  #331  
TC5
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Default

Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
I just race on asphalt, we don't have carpet tracks on our country, so i have zero experience with that. For me on asphalt it worked out.



I just used those numbers as a starting point, then i worked the rest of the setup at my local track. Bob gives some very good advices and guidelines but in the end comes to what you feel at the track thats why i did this way. But as a good and detailed explanation of what any change affects the car handling theorically speaking there isn't better thing than rccriewchief software.
I agree Jorge - its more about the changes and what they do. For eg , with 1mm under the blocks I feel there is just not enough grip . With 0mm its too much roll so 0.5 is maybe on the money.

I will soon flip the micro castors and try the shim between the cone washer to see the effects.

PS - I am using XRAY black bladders and find the sweating is much much less even after many runs.
TC5 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2018, 05:31 PM
  #332  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (29)
 
R3VoLuTiOn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 2,514
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

if anyone is looking for one, I am selling my D10 with or without parts lot. PM me.
R3VoLuTiOn is online now  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2018, 02:58 AM
  #333  
TC5
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 41
Default D10 Set up

Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Well since there isn't any "standard" values, i looked into the xray values. T4'17 kit setup is -5.46 front and -4.93 rear with 46.13% F/R Roll and 1.00 CRS. A setup from Bruno gives -5.81 front and -4.18 rear with 45.48% F/R Roll and 1.01 CRS. So i worked on something around this numbers, but i did some "changes" to standard manual car, like 0.5 shims between front hub and conical shim, steering carbon arms under the front hubs, rear hex wheel plus 1.5mm spacers and 1mm shims below the top deck.
You can pm your email and i will also send you my files.
So feed back , I upped the roll couple to around 48% by adding 0.5mm inboard on the links and then swoped out the 450 oil to 400 . Droop was around 2.2 ORH front ans 2.6 ORH rear.
The went for 0.5mm under the blocks and a medium wheelbase. I made the rear end wider , +3/+3 and WOW - worked really well. Even with my R1 V16 the rear end was solid (4K diff)

For a change I changed the front spool position , high instead of low. I think it made a difference.
Has any one played around with the shock bladders ? Blue / Clear / Black ?

I will post a set up sheet soon

TC5 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-17-2018, 01:32 AM
  #334  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
kentech's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 898
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Have a barely used D10 for sale. PM if you're interested.

https://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-ite...uring-car.html
kentech is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 09:53 AM
  #335  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portugal
Posts: 577
Default

So, some of you guys have been asking me through pm for my setup, here is the setup and some pictures of the changes i did from the standard car.




Attached Files
File Type: pdf
jorgesimes is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 10:49 AM
  #336  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Airwave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,042
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Interesting points in your setup... Why did you add 1mm under the upper-deck? You wanted the car to roll more?
Airwave is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 01:15 PM
  #337  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cedar Falls, IA
Posts: 115
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Anyone know the belt sized by chance? I'd like to get some low friction belts for my rides. Same as Xray and other popular TC's I'm guessing?
nickw is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2018, 03:59 PM
  #338  
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
 
Airwave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,042
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

The rear belt is 189mm (63T) while the front belt is 507mm (169T) long, both standard Bando belts.
https://kentech.wordpress.com/2017/1...edition-build/
Airwave is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 02:00 AM
  #339  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portugal
Posts: 577
Default

Originally Posted by Airwave View Post
Interesting points in your setup... Why did you add 1mm under the upper-deck? You wanted the car to roll more?
Diferent roll characteristics. Not roll more, the car Will just roll diferent.
jorgesimes is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2018, 04:11 AM
  #340  
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Portugal
Posts: 577
Default

Originally Posted by jorgesimes View Post
Diferent roll characteristics. Not roll more, the car Will just roll diferent.
I meant flex.
jorgesimes is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2018, 09:18 AM
  #341  
Tech Regular
 
MultiRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 312
Default

Hi All,

I have been having issues with the lower control arms breaking behind the pins. So far one front and two rear ones have broken. The material seems quite thin behind the insert and a weak point. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what I can do to stop breaking these. Is there another brand of arm that would work?
MultiRacer is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2018, 10:40 AM
  #342  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,024
Default

You have to CA glue the inserts in place or epoxy them with JB weld.
DavidNERODease is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-17-2018, 08:55 PM
  #343  
DBM
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 788
Default

Originally Posted by MultiRacer View Post
Hi All,

I have been having issues with the lower control arms breaking behind the pins. So far one front and two rear ones have broken. The material seems quite thin behind the insert and a weak point. I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and what I can do to stop breaking these. Is there another brand of arm that would work?
the arms are quite strong once you glue the inserts in. I've run hundreds of packs through my d10 and haven't broken any arms.
DBM is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2018, 08:37 PM
  #344  
Tech Regular
 
MultiRacer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Calgary
Posts: 312
Default

Ok. Good to know. Thanks for the info.
MultiRacer is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2018, 01:39 PM
  #345  
DBM
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Saskatoon, Canada
Posts: 788
Default

I just finished running my D10's in touring stock, usgt, and touring modified at the 1st annual YEG Classic in Edmonton. Zero broken parts, and the cars worked great!
DBM is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service