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Xray T4 18

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Old 07-17-2018, 03:49 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Xray T4 18
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Welcome to the XRAY T4'18 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time. Feel free to add anything you feel is useful to the community!

New for 2018:
Similar to 2017, the T4'18 kit comes available in the U.S. with either a Graphite chassis (Part no. XRA300024), or Aluminum Flex chassis (Part no. XRA300024A) along with all of the great features introduced last year. We recommend the Graphite chassis for starting on asphalt, and the Aluminum Flex for starting on carpet. The big changes for 2018 are much lower center of gravity, courtesy of the Ultra Low Profile (ULP) shocks/towers and narrower weight distribution by shifting the motor in towards the center-line of the car. In moving the motor closer to the center, the topdeck and layshaft bulkheads have been re-designed. Also new this year, the motor mount includes more holes which extend further toward the rear of the car to improve traction. With the new shorter shocks, the 2018 will use the same springs as previous T4 models.

What's NEW at T4 2018? Convert your '17 to '18 specs with these parts:

- NEW chassis plate (3 options to chose from, Graphite, Aluminum, Alum. Flex)
- NEW topdeck
- NEW ULP shocks (4mm shorter than 2017)
- NEW ULP shock towers (4mm shorter than 2017)
- NEW Motor mount (1mm narrower than 2017)
- NEW Motor mount plate
- NEW layshaft bulkheads
- NEW 51mm ECS ES driveshafts

301145 T4'18 CHASSIS 2.2MM GRAPHITE
301199 T4'18 UPPER DECK 2.0MM GRAPHITE
302084 ULP SHOCK TOWER FRONT 3.0MM GRAPHITE
303001-O T4'18 ALU LAYSHAFT BULKHEAD RIGHT - ORANGE
303002-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT - ORANGE
303003-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT PLATE - ORANGE
303085 ULP SHOCK TOWER REAR 3.0MM GRAPHITE
305221 ECS (ES) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM FOR 2MM PIN - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) (1)
305334 ECS ES (EXTRA STRONG) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) - SET
308043-O ULP ALU SHOCK ADJUSTABLE NUT - ORANGE (2)
308308-O ULP ALU SHOCK ABSORBER-SET - ORANGE (2)
308324 ULP ALU SHOCK BODY (2)
308334 ULP COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS
308354-O ULP ALU SHOCK CAP-NUT WITH VENT HOLE - ORANGE (2)

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing Exponential and RMode
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2
Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing TH-Hold

ULP Shock:

Building the new ULP Shock w/ Zero Rebound by Dominic Quek

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful build tips for the T4'16 on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit. These tips will still apply on the current model.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

Center Brace:
The manual indicates using a 2mm shim under the center brace when attaching to the chassis plate. The gap is actually 3mm, so a 3mm shim should be used here.

Tuning Note:
On Carpet we have found that adding screws or doubling up the graphite brace will make the car react quicker to steering input, & change direction faster. Raising the graphite brace off of the aluminum bulkheads by placing a shim under it on the front and rear holes will reduce response. Using the tie-rod will reduce initial response to input, but will generate more in-corner traction or 'side-bite'. Using no brace will generate even more of this 'side-bite' but all of this is at the expense of corner speed. Best to use the tie-rod or no brace only in low-traction conditions. Additionally, the center brace increases forward traction, so removing it will potentially increase wheel-spin out of low speed corners.

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

ARS Tuning courtesy of Ed (TryHard):
If you set the ARS up with no shims under either inside or outside ball positions, it actually adds toe-in under compression, at around 1° at 5.2mm ride height (how much it adds depends how much the car compresses, obviously )

Adding shims reduces the amount added (1mm under one of the links gives about 0.5°), until the link has 2mm worth of shims (1mm either side, or 2mm on one side) makes the ARS neutral. Adding more shims then turns it into reducing toe in under compression.

Whilst that might sound a bit backwards, it's actually not quite as simple as it sounds. By having the links to add toe, you gain forward traction. Also consider as the car rolls, the inside wheel is in negative compression, and the outside in compression. So the inside is toe-ing out, and the outside toe-ing in, so the whole rear is then 'steering' in the direction of the turn. Obviously the inside wheel has a lot less influence than the outside as it's far less loaded, but the effect is still there.

Optional & Tuning Parts to consider:

XRA301146 T4'18 ALU CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For very high traction** (Approx. 108g)
XRA301147 T4'18 ALU FLEX CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For high traction** (Approx. 93g)
XRA301169 T4'18 UPPER DECK 1.6MM GRAPHITE
XRA302254 Composite Steering Block - Graphite
XRA302334 Aluminum C-Hub Block - Caster
0° - Orange **Only for ARS**
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4
° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction**
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4
° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction**
XRA302711 Brass Front Lower 1-Piece Suspension Holder - Front - FF
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar

XRA303360 Composite Upright 0° Outboard Toe-In - Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar

XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel **Highly recommend**
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)

XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA305352 Aluminum Wheel Hub - Offset
“+0.75mm” - Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308029 ULP ALU PROGRESSIVE SHOCK SYSTEM - SET (2) **Only for asphalt**
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)

XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)

Recent Setups:
7-Oct - Alexander Hagberg - IIC - High Traction Carpet - Mod Q2, P2
7-Oct - Craig Xavier - IIC - High Traction Carpet - SuperStock Q5, P5

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Old 10-23-2018, 01:24 PM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by kwb0748 View Post
I am looking for a 102 tooth 64p spur. Any other brands work with xrays?
i really like the ARC spurs.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:29 PM
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hello, I have a t-18 stock 10.5t with 50º timming. What is the best battery of 8400 or 6400 mah?
Thank you
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Old 04-30-2019, 02:57 AM
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Originally Posted by electrojer View Post
hello, I have a t-18 stock 10.5t with 50º timming. What is the best battery of 8400 or 6400 mah?
Thank you
I would go with the 6400 stick for 10.5
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Old 04-30-2019, 08:40 AM
  #889  
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Does anyone like the Muchnore Fleta over the others for ESC in stock? Running 21.5 USGT in my 18 t4. Currently using the r1
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Old 04-30-2019, 04:07 PM
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How do you like the R1 for usgt?
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:48 PM
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Looks like I’m finally getting my first X-ray. Going to give usgt a try. Haven’t raced onroad much since I had a trf415.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:23 PM
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I'm running on a medium grip black carpet track. Which roll bars should I be using? I'm basically new to racing. My son and I both have a 2018 T4. What conditions warrant changing the roll bar?

Thanks
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by FlatSix914 View Post
I'm running on a medium grip black carpet track. Which roll bars should I be using? I'm basically new to racing. My son and I both have a 2018 T4. What conditions warrant changing the roll bar?

Thanks
You should be good starting with the kit bars. 4 front 3 rear
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Old 05-08-2019, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by FlatSix914 View Post
I'm running on a medium grip black carpet track. Which roll bars should I be using? I'm basically new to racing. My son and I both have a 2018 T4. What conditions warrant changing the roll bar?

Thanks
Originally Posted by bertottius View Post
You should be good starting with the kit bars. 4 front 3 rear
Chris is right, for medium grip black carpet the kit bars are best. If the grip gets high and the car becomes tippy you could go down to a 1.3 front bar to smooth it out. Additionally, if grip is high and the car feels like it does not rotate well enough, you could drop to a 1.2 rear bar to re-gain some of that mid-corner rotation.

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Old 05-10-2019, 10:52 PM
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Hello I picked up a used T4 2018 and am trying match a set up from a sponsored driver but the eccentric bushings don’t make sense on the setup sheets. It seems to be the similar on several setup sheets. I’m coming from an older X-ray that didn’t use these bushings. Am I reading something wrong here? The roll centers should be in the same vertical plane to raise or lower and adjus dive squat but all these show differences in the horizontal plane which means it would affect toe or track width also. That’s fine but why adjust toe with bushings in the front? And even in the rear, some of the show pos toe instead on neg toe. One even shows 2.5 rear to which is not possible with the 0, 0.5 and 1.0 options. Does this make sense or are the setup sheets just not accurate?
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Old 05-11-2019, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ebohon View Post
Hello I picked up a used T4 2018 and am trying match a set up from a sponsored driver but the eccentric bushings don’t make sense on the setup sheets. It seems to be the similar on several setup sheets. I’m coming from an older X-ray that didn’t use these bushings. Am I reading something wrong here? The roll centers should be in the same vertical plane to raise or lower and adjus dive squat but all these show differences in the horizontal plane which means it would affect toe or track width also. That’s fine but why adjust toe with bushings in the front? And even in the rear, some of the show pos toe instead on neg toe. One even shows 2.5 rear to which is not possible with the 0, 0.5 and 1.0 options. Does this make sense or are the setup sheets just not accurate?
The suspension pills are often adjusted like this, at different heights or widths, particularly in the front of the car. You have so much adjustment available so easily that drivers started experimenting when these cam out and found some things that work fairly well and have largely been carried over for a while now.

The FF pills being wider and lower than the RR is very common. In this case the lower FF pill reduces weight transfer to the front in higher grip conditions which makes the car a bit easier to get into corners. While having the FF wider than the rear introduces a little arm sweep at the pins. I'm told that makes the car easier to drive as well but I've never really experimented with it (I do run it like this, but I've never tried it the same as the rear on carpet). So don't worry so much about them not being the same because these days it's pretty normal to adjust them independently.

The toe settings being positive or negative is just semantics. We all run the rear wheels closer to each other at the front and the front wheels further apart at the front.

And, the adjustments on the pills are not in degrees, they are in mm. Assuming stock center pill position all around is 3° rear toe and you change to a .5mm out RF pill that should get you close to 2.5° toe. The measure is not a .5° change on each side, it's .5mm so you can adjust in increments to produce 2.5° of rear toe.
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Old 05-11-2019, 11:14 AM
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Thanks that answers my questions. I didn’t think about the FF or RR pills being of different height or width. That makes a bit more sense. I’ll throw the car on the set up board once I’m done rebuilding it. I took it apart to clean, make sure no tweak redo shocks etc. and will also use calipers to compare the manual ‘stock build’ to a sponsored drivers build. I saw with the naked eye the rear toe comes with some level of degree already with stock parts even if using the 0* bushings on RF and RR.
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Old 05-13-2019, 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ebohon View Post
Thanks that answers my questions. I didn’t think about the FF or RR pills being of different height or width. That makes a bit more sense. I’ll throw the car on the set up board once I’m done rebuilding it. I took it apart to clean, make sure no tweak redo shocks etc. and will also use calipers to compare the manual ‘stock build’ to a sponsored drivers build. I saw with the naked eye the rear toe comes with some level of degree already with stock parts even if using the 0* bushings on RF and RR.
On the rear you'll end up with 3deg toe in if you use the same position (i.e both middle, both inside or both outside) RF and RR. You can then get more or less toe by using different positions front and rear. That's why the setup sheet you had in your previous post has a rear toe of 2.5. The RF uses .5 outside which equates to .5 less than 3. Hope this makes sense.
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