R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-30-2017, 01:53 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Xray T4 18
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: R Dodge
Welcome to the XRAY T4'18 Thread & Wikipost! Here you will find some useful info, tips and tricks as well as setups that are used by several team drivers. This wikipost is a work in progress and should continue to develop over time. Feel free to add anything you feel is useful to the community!

New for 2018:
Similar to 2017, the T4'18 kit comes available in the U.S. with either a Graphite chassis (Part no. XRA300024), or Aluminum Flex chassis (Part no. XRA300024A) along with all of the great features introduced last year. We recommend the Graphite chassis for starting on asphalt, and the Aluminum Flex for starting on carpet. The big changes for 2018 are much lower center of gravity, courtesy of the Ultra Low Profile (ULP) shocks/towers and narrower weight distribution by shifting the motor in towards the center-line of the car. In moving the motor closer to the center, the topdeck and layshaft bulkheads have been re-designed. Also new this year, the motor mount includes more holes which extend further toward the rear of the car to improve traction. With the new shorter shocks, the 2018 will use the same springs as previous T4 models.

What's NEW at T4 2018? Convert your '17 to '18 specs with these parts:

- NEW chassis plate (3 options to chose from, Graphite, Aluminum, Alum. Flex)
- NEW topdeck
- NEW ULP shocks (4mm shorter than 2017)
- NEW ULP shock towers (4mm shorter than 2017)
- NEW Motor mount (1mm narrower than 2017)
- NEW Motor mount plate
- NEW layshaft bulkheads
- NEW 51mm ECS ES driveshafts

301145 T4'18 CHASSIS 2.2MM GRAPHITE
301199 T4'18 UPPER DECK 2.0MM GRAPHITE
302084 ULP SHOCK TOWER FRONT 3.0MM GRAPHITE
303001-O T4'18 ALU LAYSHAFT BULKHEAD RIGHT - ORANGE
303002-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT - ORANGE
303003-O T4'18 ALU MOTOR MOUNT PLATE - ORANGE
303085 ULP SHOCK TOWER REAR 3.0MM GRAPHITE
305221 ECS (ES) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM FOR 2MM PIN - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) (1)
305334 ECS ES (EXTRA STRONG) DRIVE SHAFT 51MM - HUDY SPRING STEEL(tm) - SET
308043-O ULP ALU SHOCK ADJUSTABLE NUT - ORANGE (2)
308308-O ULP ALU SHOCK ABSORBER-SET - ORANGE (2)
308324 ULP ALU SHOCK BODY (2)
308334 ULP COMPOSITE SHOCK PARTS
308354-O ULP ALU SHOCK CAP-NUT WITH VENT HOLE - ORANGE (2)

Tips & Tricks:

Alex Hagberg's Tech Tip Tuesday articles

How to mount your Protoform LTC-R Body
Setting static camber
How to mount weight on your chassis Part1
How to mount the rear wing on Protoform bodies
Simple troubleshooting guide
How to mount the battery on your chassis
How to glue your front tires for CRC Black carpet with Eric Anderson
Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing Exponential and RMode
How to mount weight on your chassis Part2
Mastering the Sanwa M12S: Utilizing TH-Hold

ULP Shock:

Building the new ULP Shock w/ Zero Rebound by Dominic Quek

Team driver Tim Wahl posted some very useful build tips for the T4'16 on Facebook as he worked through building a new kit. These tips will still apply on the current model.

1- Carbon Parts
2-Suspension
3-Solid Axle and Differential
4-Bulkheads & Drivetrain
5-Driveshaft (ECS & CVD)
6-Front & Rear Suspension
7-Tweak
8-Anti-Roll Bar
9-Battery Fix (OPTIONAL)
10-Bumper & Body
11-Shocks
12-Steering

Center Brace:
The manual indicates using a 2mm shim under the center brace when attaching to the chassis plate. The gap is actually 3mm, so a 3mm shim should be used here.

Tuning Note:
On Carpet we have found that adding screws or doubling up the graphite brace will make the car react quicker to steering input, & change direction faster. Raising the graphite brace off of the aluminum bulkheads by placing a shim under it on the front and rear holes will reduce response. Using the tie-rod will reduce initial response to input, but will generate more in-corner traction or 'side-bite'. Using no brace will generate even more of this 'side-bite' but all of this is at the expense of corner speed. Best to use the tie-rod or no brace only in low-traction conditions. Additionally, the center brace increases forward traction, so removing it will potentially increase wheel-spin out of low speed corners.

New Graphite Hubs:
Xray have recently released some additional Graphite hubs for the T4 lineup. The 4° Graphite C-Hub has been out for some time and is known to improve steering on entry, and in general makes the car turn better. This has been the go-to c-hub on asphalt for many on the Xray team, though it is not needed on high bite carpet. The Graphite rear hub tends to make the car more stable, especially on corner entry. We are still working on gathering input on the new Graphite steering block, but for the moment feel that it should improve steering response. All Graphite parts are approximately 1g lighter than the Hard or Medium options.

ARS Tuning courtesy of Ed (TryHard):
If you set the ARS up with no shims under either inside or outside ball positions, it actually adds toe-in under compression, at around 1° at 5.2mm ride height (how much it adds depends how much the car compresses, obviously )

Adding shims reduces the amount added (1mm under one of the links gives about 0.5°), until the link has 2mm worth of shims (1mm either side, or 2mm on one side) makes the ARS neutral. Adding more shims then turns it into reducing toe in under compression.

Whilst that might sound a bit backwards, it's actually not quite as simple as it sounds. By having the links to add toe, you gain forward traction. Also consider as the car rolls, the inside wheel is in negative compression, and the outside in compression. So the inside is toe-ing out, and the outside toe-ing in, so the whole rear is then 'steering' in the direction of the turn. Obviously the inside wheel has a lot less influence than the outside as it's far less loaded, but the effect is still there.

Optional & Tuning Parts to consider:

XRA301146 T4'18 ALU CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For high traction**
XRA301147 T4'18 ALU FLEX CHASSIS 2.0MM - SWISS 7075 T6 **For very high traction**
XRA301169 T4'18 UPPER DECK 1.6MM GRAPHITE
XRA302254 Composite Steering Block - Graphite
XRA302334 Aluminum C-Hub Block - Caster
0° - Orange **Only for ARS**
XRA302383 Composite C-Hub Right – 4
° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction**
XRA302384 Composite C-Hub Left – 4
° - Graphite (ECS) **Not recommended for high traction**
XRA302711 Brass Front Lower 1-Piece Suspension Holder - Front - FF
XRA302803 1.3mm Front Anti-Roll Bar
XRA303360 Composite Upright 0° Outboard Toe-In - Graphite
XRA303802 1.2mm Rear Anti-Roll Bar
XRA305137 Steel Solid Axle Driveshaft Adapters - HUDY Spring Steel **Highly recommend**
XRA305242 Composite Drive Shaft Replacement Cap 3.5mm – Orange – Strong (QTY 4)
XRA305351 Aluminum Wheel Hub – Offset “-0.75mm” – Black (QTY 2)
XRA305352 Aluminum Wheel Hub - Offset
“+0.75mm” - Black (QTY 2)
XRA306191 T4 Graphite + Aluminum Fully Adjustable Battery Holder
XRA308029 ULP ALU PROGRESSIVE SHOCK SYSTEM - SET (2) **Only for asphalt**
XRA308264 4S Spring-Set Progressive C=2.5-2.8 (QTY 2)

XRA308276 4S Spring-Set C=2.7 (QTY 2)
XRA308286 4S Spring-Set C=2.6 (QTY 2)


Recent Setups:
7-Oct - Alexander Hagberg - IIC - High Traction Carpet - Mod Q2, P2
7-Oct - Craig Xavier - IIC - High Traction Carpet - SuperStock Q5, P5

Print Wikipost

Like Tree156Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-09-2017, 08:51 PM   #211
Tech Elite
 
Phil Trotta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,459
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcracing01 View Post
Hello everyone,

I am having issues with the diff leaking through the casing using 8000k oil.

I secure the screws bit by bit and go across from one to another. I also don't over tighten. I changed the green gasket and still leaks through the casing. The O ring is not in the best shape since I opened it but I'm told it has no use anyway.

Any other ideas?
I had numerous problems with leaky diffs I give u some tip me and Tosolini did to fix it

Build diff install paper gasket (Kit) where o ring would go put small bead of rtv red silicone.Smooth out around where O-ring would go ( the channel in cover) let it tack up a bit

Assemble cover to diff tighten accordingly It will never leak or sweat. And be reusable.

I've done this with 3k. 5k. 7 k. 10 k. 12 k. All succesful
__________________
PHIL TROTTA
Phil Trotta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 08:53 PM   #212
Tech Elite
 
Phil Trotta's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,459
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Oring in the adjuster is a new part number. Indeed thinner. Catching in the gap sounds plausible. Mine are kind of hard and brittle even after soaking in shock oil a while.
Anybody try using black grease on oring. Oil sometimes makes rubber expand
__________________
PHIL TROTTA
Phil Trotta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-09-2017, 09:29 PM   #213
Tech Master
 
Professor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Sydney,Australia
Posts: 1,107
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Trotta View Post
Anybody try using black grease on oring. Oil sometimes makes rubber expand
Been using black grease on diff o rings for a few years now ( VBC cars not X-ray)& never have leaking or weeping diffs, I find it works a treat for me
No9 likes this.
Professor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 02:38 AM   #214
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,791
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Professor View Post
Been using black grease on diff o rings for a few years now ( VBC cars not X-ray)& never have leaking or weeping diffs, I find it works a treat for me
Think everyone is talking 'crossed wires' here

We appear to have issues with the O-ring in the shock adjuster, whilst others are having issues with the main diff O-ring, the one which no-one fits to the diffs at all. I honestly don't know why they even bother with it, diff's are fine without them.
DavidNERODease likes this.
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 02:46 AM   #215
Tech Elite
 
Skiddins's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Windsor, UK
Posts: 4,791
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by syndr0me View Post
Oring in the adjuster is a new part number. Indeed thinner. Catching in the gap sounds plausible. Mine are kind of hard and brittle even after soaking in shock oil a while.
I was looking at the exploded view, and the '18 has the wrong part number on that

My o-rings don't appear to feel hardened at all. Just slimy from all the oil I've accidentally gotten on them
__________________
Xray T4'18, T4'14 (Wet Car)
Xray X12 2018
Xray X1'16
wlrc.co.uk (West London Racing Centre)
RCDisco.co.uk
Skiddins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 04:08 AM   #216
Tech Addict
 
G-rem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Belgium
Posts: 724
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Hi there,

when using ARS, can you please tell me what would be the influence of using the other hole on the "steering" block instead of the one said to be the only one to be used in the manual (see step 5, p. 22)?
I assume the rear toe rod will not be straight anymore compared to the stock position, but what will it influence?

Thanks in advance for helping!

G-rem
G-rem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 07:00 AM   #217
Tech Fanatic
 
daleburr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Oxfordshire, UK
Posts: 870
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi there,

when using ARS, can you please tell me what would be the influence of using the other hole on the "steering" block instead of the one said to be the only one to be used in the manual (see step 5, p. 22)?
I assume the rear toe rod will not be straight anymore compared to the stock position, but what will it influence?

Thanks in advance for helping!

G-rem
Could you please post your question somewhere else? This thread is just for O-ring issues

If you use the inner hole then any play in the linkage will result in more movement of the wheel which is bad.

And I guess you'll get a different amount of toe change, but it would be better to achieve that with shims instead.
G-rem likes this.
__________________
Team Xray
RC-Timing Software - http://www.rc-timing.com
Mercedes AMG F1 - http://www.mercedes-amg-f1.com/
daleburr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 07:27 AM   #218
Tech Addict
 
G-rem's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Belgium
Posts: 724
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Thanks a lot, I didn't thought about play!
G-rem is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 08:31 AM   #219
Tech Regular
 
mazmorbid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posts: 430
Trader Rating: 9 (91%+)
Default

Hi guys, while building my T4 I really didn't like the sloppiness in the 20T main pulley gears, mine were quite wobbly, I have found that the Destiny RX-10S's main pulley gears are identical, one fits perfectly (plastic bush side) but the one on the other side needed 0.27mm shaved off it, now the main pulley is supper tight and no wobbles at all






mariob62 likes this.
__________________
Xray T4 18 | Sanwa | R1 | SpeedyRC
mazmorbid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 09:26 AM   #220
Tech Master
 
tbrymer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Arizona
Posts: 1,025
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

The slop in that area is one of the things I was hoping Xray would fix on the 2018.
__________________
CRC - C&C Motorsports - SpeedZone
tbrymer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 11:26 AM   #221
Tech Elite
 
R Dodge's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,461
Default

I just use plastic from a parts bag to remove the slop from the pulley.
__________________
★RCAmerica •Xray •Hudy •Motiv •PROTOform •Gravity •Avid •TQ Wire •Sanwa •BSR •ProLevelRC •2mmDesigns •Timmy •5Nines★
R Dodge is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 12:52 PM   #222
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Default

Any feedback on how the ULP shocks work on UK asphalt tracks?

Last edited by charlieg; 10-10-2017 at 01:26 PM.
charlieg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 01:18 PM   #223
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 4
Default

I'm looking at changing TC brands and really interested in the T4 18 for my next car, has anyone used the car on asphalt? As the only concern I have is that the ULP shocks might not work to well at my local UK track. I tried a friend's T4 17 and liked the car, problem is that I want a new car (T4 18 preferable to the T4 17) but i don't want to buy a new set of LP shocks and towers to make it work.

I've also seen on here that there are some issues with the ULP shock spring adjusters (trapped O-ring), should I wait to see if Xray address this issue before I buy one? or is there a fix that can be done without having to use the spring adjusters from the LP shocks?

Sorry for all the questions, just after some info from Xray owner's
charlieg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 01:54 PM   #224
Tech Regular
 
daveaustin5's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: UK
Posts: 466
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by charlieg View Post
Any feedback on how the ULP shocks work on UK asphalt tracks?
Still early days as there's only really club races left outside until Spring.

They should be good at the flatter tracks like (new) Bedworth, Stafford and WLRC. I'd imagine most will use the longer shocks at most other tracks.
daveaustin5 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-10-2017, 04:11 PM   #225
Tech Champion
 
TryHard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 5,299
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-rem View Post
Hi there,

when using ARS, can you please tell me what would be the influence of using the other hole on the "steering" block instead of the one said to be the only one to be used in the manual (see step 5, p. 22)?
I assume the rear toe rod will not be straight anymore compared to the stock position, but what will it influence?

Thanks in advance for helping!

G-rem
Quote:
Originally Posted by daleburr View Post
Could you please post your question somewhere else? This thread is just for O-ring issues

If you use the inner hole then any play in the linkage will result in more movement of the wheel which is bad.

And I guess you'll get a different amount of toe change, but it would be better to achieve that with shims instead.
Actually, the standard link position isn't straight anyway, so you'd get play movement as well...
Moving the link on the hub will generate more toe gain for given compression, as the lever arm on the link is shorter. So if you wanted a more extreme toe gain, then you could use the shorter position.
Moving the link on the suspension block will change how quickly the toe gain occurs, rather than the amount, much like shorter camber link vs long.

In all fairness... kit positions seem best, with tuning by shims to reduce the toe change... zero shims gives about 0.75° of toe gain, 1.5mm is neutral, and above that is taking toe-in away.

HiH
Ed
G-rem likes this.
__________________
| THard.co.uk | Xray | MuchMore |

Last edited by TryHard; 10-11-2017 at 10:43 PM. Reason: Corrected shim settings...
TryHard is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Xray M18 Pro LiPo Edition mdowney Micro and Mini Scales 28 07-13-2017 02:23 PM
The New Xray T4 '13 jorgesimes Electric On-Road 5620 01-31-2016 08:51 AM
Xray XB9 13 vs Losi 8IGHT 3.0 themis Nitro Off-Road 54 07-17-2013 10:32 AM
XRAY T3 vs. TC6.1 vs. S411 - Which one and why? Onetrade Electric On-Road 40 05-26-2012 11:32 AM
HUGE 1/8 Buggy/Truggy Sale! (Xray, Losi, Mugen) K_B R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 47 04-16-2010 02:05 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:22 PM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net